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Old 02-14-2015, 09:52 AM   #41
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4. where the hockeysticks is the fusebox in a tc2000?

On my TC1000 it is above the dash cluster behind a panel, you can see it through the WS.

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Old 02-14-2015, 10:02 AM   #42
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Whoa yeah! 2 8Ds should be spinning that Cummins right up!
Are you have any performance issues with the grounding cable, or is the poor workmanship with it your only concern?
When something like that breaks or needs replacing on our buses, I go to the store and have them fab a replacement cable for me. I have a feeling that finding the original replacememt from Blue Bird would be expensive and difficult. A good heavy duty truck parts store or battery shop can fab up cables as good as oem in my opinion.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:18 AM   #43
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Well, I didn't realize we were having any electrical issues until she wouldn't crank to do some leveling. The concern is that the cables are stout enough to handle the load and in good enough condition to be reliable. Also, the terminals look a little worse for wear in my opinion (but still a clean connection). Overall, just don't want a repeat of this and end up $400.00 down for new batteries and the hassle of being stranded somewhere.

I'll def go with truck parts store/battery shop refab, as we have a couple in this area.
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:56 AM   #44
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Feeling dork-ish now that I've discovered we actually have circuit breakers instead of fuses...there they were, smiling at my unwitting frown and staring me right in my unknowing eyes.

I believe I am pointing to them with a red pen (yes, I am a teacher and yes, we do still use red pens)

Circuits? Agree?


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Old 02-15-2015, 07:55 AM   #45
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yes those are circuit breakers. you can check em for continuity with an ohm meter. the bus bar will carry the incoming voltage and single posts will be outgoing voltage. if yas have a short, the breakers will open and not let current to flow.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:47 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seroflorus View Post

4. where the hockeysticks is the fusebox in a tc2000?

Behind that nice little door below the driver side window.

The release to open it is on the inside behind the driver seat on the wall. The little L of metal pulls out to release the door.

You need a battery disconnect switch.

When you open that fuse box door, prepare to be overwhelmed. There is a but load of extra circuits inside that box that were needed as a school bus, but you wont be needing. This is why I chose to pull the entire wiring harness out, and start from scratch. The best way to remove the clutter.

I have circuit breakers, but I also have fuses inside there.

Nat
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:49 PM   #47
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I have opened that door (my latch is a flat bar that is pushed down, not out) and that is where I found the pictured lovely circuits. I did not, however, find any fuse box. I see a couple of solenoids and the circuits pictured and a lot, lot, lot of wiring.

The bus was not a school bus and didn't even have any over windshield lights, no stop sign, no cross arm...but there are still a lot of wires, just as you say.

got any pics of your fuses/fuse box? I can't even find any inline fuses at this point, though I am prepared to believe they are there and stand willing to learn.
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:10 PM   #48
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Got any pics of your fuses/fuse box? I can't even find any inline fuses at this point, though I am prepared to believe they are there and stand willing to learn.
The black box at the bottom left corner has around 6 fuses in it. Most of them are yellow. It also has relays in it. They are the little black square boxes 1 inch by 1 inch.



I will get a better pic tonight.

Nat
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:17 AM   #49
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wish my wiring was color coded. almost every wire is white. sux trying to run em down as the other end is longer than the leads of my vom. guess i gotta get a few batteries to send a signal.
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:20 AM   #50
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Look for numbers on the wires. If they are real old they mean have faded but should be there .

Chuck
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Old 02-18-2015, 12:23 PM   #51
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Look for numbers on the wires. If they are real old they mean have faded but should be there .

Chuck
thanks, they are numbered but discounted the idea of finding a schematic.
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Old 02-19-2015, 05:22 PM   #52
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I'm looking to adding in just a mini fridge, chest freezer, griddle, blender, counter top fryer. What kind of system would work for this? would just one generator do it? This is for a food truck and frankly I'm incredibly naive on electricity! Any help is SUPER appreciated.
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Old 02-19-2015, 06:43 PM   #53
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I'm looking to adding in just a mini fridge, chest freezer, griddle, blender, counter top fryer. What kind of system would work for this? would just one generator do it? This is for a food truck and frankly I'm incredibly naive on electricity! Any help is SUPER appreciated.
a member here, lornaschinske (sorry if mispelled) has operated a food cart. search for her posts. she is full of valuable info.
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Old 03-20-2015, 10:25 AM   #54
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Skoolie Electrical Help PLEASE!!!

I'm so lost on electrical.. I don't know what all I NEED for what I'm planning on powering. and step-by-step explanation on things like does the house battery go to an inverter and then to breaker box and then where?? If you can help me that'd be great!

Want to Power:
Medium sized mini-fridge: all the time
Electric grill/stove top: Maybe an hour a day
12 volt LED strip lights: Would like at least 6-8 hours a day
And power to about 6 outlets: to use for phone chargers and other small things

I'd like to have all this run off of 1 or two house batteries and an inverter all being charged from the alternator somehow, with the option of plugging into 30 amp shore power.
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:43 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gagelegare View Post
I'm so lost on electrical.. I don't know what all I NEED for what I'm planning on powering. and step-by-step explanation on things like does the house battery go to an inverter and then to breaker box and then where?? If you can help me that'd be great!

Want to Power:
Medium sized mini-fridge: all the time
Electric grill/stove top: Maybe an hour a day
12 volt LED strip lights: Would like at least 6-8 hours a day
And power to about 6 outlets: to use for phone chargers and other small things

I'd like to have all this run off of 1 or two house batteries and an inverter all being charged from the alternator somehow, with the option of plugging into 30 amp shore power.

Your going to have to run a generator to power that grill/ stove top for that hour.

Or have a massive battery bank.

You will need more than just one battery to feed that fridge. Store sold mini fridges are not energy efficient enough to run that way.

I'm going to build my fridge using the Danfoss DC compressor. This will permit me to use nice thick 4 inch insulation, VS the 1.5 inch in the $1400 fridges you can buy.

The compressor alone is around $800. All fridges that use that type of compressor start at $1400

Go read some of the build threads. Like this one:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/ar...rust-8870.html

Late in the tread there is some documentation about solar.

Nat
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:11 PM   #56
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Have you looked into this fridge? All the specs etc. are there to compare.
Sun Frost Blog

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
You will need more than just one battery to feed that fridge. Store sold mini fridges are not energy efficient enough to run that way.

I'm going to build my fridge using the Danfoss DC compressor. This will permit me to use nice thick 4 inch insulation, VS the 1.5 inch in the $1400 fridges you can buy.

The compressor alone is around $800. All fridges that use that type of compressor start at $1400

Go read some of the build threads. Like this one:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/ar...rust-8870.html

Late in the tread there is some documentation about solar.

Nat
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:20 PM   #57
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Have you looked into this fridge? All the specs etc. are there to compare.
Sun Frost Blog
I like everything but the price.

However I expect such price for such fridge.

Sun Frost Refrigerator Retail Price List

Nat
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:38 PM   #58
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The part I don't get is why it is not a top loader. With the door on the front, all the cool air falls out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
I like everything but the price.

However I expect such price for such fridge.

Sun Frost Refrigerator Retail Price List

Nat
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:48 PM   #59
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The part I don't get is why it is not a top loader. With the door on the front, all the cool air falls out.
Why don't more people understand this? If you picture cold air like water, both are heavier than warm air. If I had a chest freezer full of water, I could open the top and lift something out without spilling any.

But if I have a front-door fridge full of water, and open the front door, imagine it all pouring out like something from a comedy movie. Sure, it will slowly fill up again when the door is closed, but why spill the cold that you have already "paid" for?
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:21 AM   #60
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A lot of off-gridders use deep chest freezers, and for the refrigerator side you just wire a thermostat in to kick it on and off. Huge energy savings. We were actually planning on doing this ourselves - they're cheap, too, and that helps the planning. I think realistically we're going to have power way more often than not so we'll probably go more traditional, but it's definitely a solid idea.
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