Alternative to rivets

[Lamacose]

After a search returned a gazillion posts I couldn’t find the answer.

Can screws and / or nuts & bolts be used in place of rivets?

While I am still in the fantasy stages of building my skoolie, I have run numerous scenarios in my head.They all require some sort of fastener to hold things together.While I have no aversion to rivets, I lack someone to work (buck?) the other side of the rivet.

Can a quality sheet metal screw, possibly stainless, along with Loctite or epoxy be used as an adequate substitution to a rivet? Has anyone used gasketed screws used on metal roofs?

I must say this site is great.I have enjoyed many hours going through it.The wealth of knowledge is amazing.



Andy

[Tango]

The biggest advantage of properly installed rivets over screws (beyond the fact they can't back out) is that they expand in the hole and provide direct transfer of loads. In effect...there is no "hole". The material acts pretty much as if it were still solid. That is why rivets (hot bucked) are used on truck frames and steel framed buildings.

Really no comparison between the two.

[glenn bell]

I'm a ways off but i was planning on using 1/4 steel pop rivets. How do these compare strength wise to bucked rivets?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by glenn bell

I'm a ways off but i was planning on using 1/4 steel pop rivets. How do these compare strength wise to bucked rivets?

I'll be using blind, closed-end 1/4" pop rivets.

[Tango]

No comparison between "pop" & hit bucked but for sheet metal, properly set poppers in the correct metal are typically stronger than the surrounding material. Just make sure to get the right size (diameter & length) so that they pull up with the correct amount of expansion. Best bet is to check with the manufacturer and tell them what you are working with.

[Tedd]

Another alternative is adhesives: No Weld Panel Adhesive Replacement

I have not tried this yet, but only because I haven't had the time.

[superdave]

my bus has screws, so i used screws.

[BusFiend]

I love the idea of replacing all the rivets. I'm just not convinced it's the best option. Besides, I already have too many loose screws.

[BuSmith]

Our first bus (that my dad built) was sheeted over using screws as fasteners. They've acquired a little rust over the last 35 years but they look ok and we've never had any problem with them. That being said, I think the wife and I are leaning towards bucked rivets for the new bus. Pics when I get home.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

[cadillackid]

my bus is 25 years old and ALL of the interior panels are secured by star screws.. I found only a missing screw or two so they must hold well as none backed out ...

on the outside the body panels are riveted on..

-Christopher

[slidewayzm5]

Hey Andy,
Hopefully you don't mind me piggy backing your thread rather than starting my own similar one.

I stuffed various drill bits into the holes left by the rivets on my bus until I found the closest match. 9/32" is the diameter and that is not a common size. Since I'm going to be skinning over 80% of my windows plus re skinning the interior I need to find a solution.

First off - I can't find anywhere that has 9/16" dia x ~3/8" steel blind (pop) rivets locally. I'd rather not use 1/4" because surely there will be movement or moisture problems. I don't want to buy solid rivets and need to buck a thousand of them in. There are quite a few places that truly require the blind rivets as you cannot get to the other side.

Second - my squeeze (pliers) style rivet installer tool only has a hole so big to fit the nail end of a rivet so I doubt 9/32 rivets would fit in it even if I found some unless they had really thin nails.

Third - from what I have seen - these rivets cost an arm and a leg. By the time I factor shipping and exchange rate - I'm probably looking at $0.35 a rivet and waiting a bunch of time for them to arrive!

Hell that's like $350 in rivets?!

I know I read a thread after an exhaustive search that Nat used 1/4" bolts as hardware and that it was cheaper for him to do that rather than rivets. I might go this route but need blind rivets still for the blind holes.

Hopefully someone can help with quality suggestions?
Thanks!

[gobygoby]

I had a lot of success with the harbor freight air riveter. I got some of their 500 rivet packs for $5 each, so my rivets are just a penny each. I put a bead of Loctite PL 3X Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive between the sheets, then drilled lots of holes and riveted the sheet metal together. I found that I could drill about 3 holes in a row about 3 inches apart, then put in the 3 pop rivets, then drill the next 3 holes. The inserted rivets hold the metal together enough to get a clean drill hole. If I tried to drill too many holes in a row before switching tools, the holes wouldn't quite line up at the end.

[Tango]

Just one word..."Clecos".