|
|
05-22-2021, 09:17 PM
|
#21
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 523
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird, Collins
Chassis: G30 Bluebird Microbird, E350 Shuttle Bus
Engine: 1995 Chevrolet 350, 1992 Ford 460
|
After comparing both the DIY spray kits and a professional job it looked like the pro job was much better. Much smoother and consistent thickness. But I’ve only see a couple of DIY jobs and used 3 kits myself.
|
|
|
05-22-2021, 10:50 PM
|
#22
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 442
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cummins ISC 260HP/660Q/MD3060 6spd
Rated Cap: 81
|
I used spray foam and haven’t had any warping the skin problems. I priced out doing it myself and hiring a “professional” and the cost was similar $2000 cad 40 ft with roof raise so I hired the pro. I wasn’t extremely happy with his work but he was the cheapest quote I got. I also gave him an extra $500 to put an extra 3/4” in the ceiling and to spray the accessable areas underneath the bus that wasn’t in the $2000 cad quote. So $2500 cad total.
My walls are 2” thick and the ceiling is 2 3/4” thick with the spray foam. I put in 1.5” ridgid foam on the floor inside. I’ve stayed in it a few cold nights like -20 Celsius and it didn’t do too bad. Even with the 1.5” on the floor it still cool on the feet on cold nights so I wouldn’t do less than that if you’re going to be in cold weather.
If I were to do it again I’d run strips of 1x4 wood horizontally along the walls and ceiling (i did do this on my ceiling) then spray the foam flush with the wood. That gives you an extra 3/4” of insulation and it also covers the ribs completely. Then you can nail in your wall boards, counters etc right in to the 1x4 strips.
|
|
|
05-23-2021, 08:53 AM
|
#23
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 66
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: 6.7 Cummins
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bon Voyage
I used spray foam and haven’t had any warping the skin problems. I priced out doing it myself and hiring a “professional” and the cost was similar $2000 cad 40 ft with roof raise so I hired the pro. I wasn’t extremely happy with his work but he was the cheapest quote I got. I also gave him an extra $500 to put an extra 3/4” in the ceiling and to spray the accessable areas underneath the bus that wasn’t in the $2000 cad quote. So $2500 cad total.
My walls are 2” thick and the ceiling is 2 3/4” thick with the spray foam. I put in 1.5” ridgid foam on the floor inside. I’ve stayed in it a few cold nights like -20 Celsius and it didn’t do too bad. Even with the 1.5” on the floor it still cool on the feet on cold nights so I wouldn’t do less than that if you’re going to be in cold weather.
If I were to do it again I’d run strips of 1x4 wood horizontally along the walls and ceiling (i did do this on my ceiling) then spray the foam flush with the wood. That gives you an extra 3/4” of insulation and it also covers the ribs completely. Then you can nail in your wall boards, counters etc right in to the 1x4 strips.
|
I like the idea of the adding wood strips for more depth. How did the spray under the bus go? How thick did he put it and has it held up over time? The spray foam could be good anti-rust protection too so I'll definitely look to do that as well.
|
|
|
05-23-2021, 10:54 AM
|
#24
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
|
The "warping" aka oilcanning issue
comes from spraying / pouring into an enclosed space, or where exit paths for the explosive expansion forces are insufficient.
Best to spray onto an exposed plane, or only do a couple inches' worth at a time.
Following the specs from the data sheet is critical
it's incomplete curing that results in toxic off-gassing later.
Best to let it sit a full week or two with full air circulation before enclosing the foam
and not live in it closed up for a few months IMO.
and good controlled ventilation is always important even in arctic conditions.
|
|
|
05-23-2021, 11:39 AM
|
#25
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 442
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cummins ISC 260HP/660Q/MD3060 6spd
Rated Cap: 81
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by CompLexxx
I like the idea of the adding wood strips for more depth. How did the spray under the bus go? How thick did he put it and has it held up over time? The spray foam could be good anti-rust protection too so I'll definitely look to do that as well.
|
The foam underneath is fine (2 years old now) I don’t anticipate any problems with it as it doesn’t absorb water or anything but I t’s hard to know how much it actually helps. He left lots of gaps in there so one day when I’m feeling ambitious I’ll go in and fill them but it’s probably an inch thick maybe more in some spots.
|
|
|
05-23-2021, 01:36 PM
|
#26
|
Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Mud Lake, Idaho
Posts: 136
|
|
|
|
05-27-2021, 02:07 PM
|
#27
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac
Soy? Why not wheat or cheese.
Organic substances are the sole source of nutrition for mold, mildew, & fungus as none can feed on inorganic matter.
The aforementioned is also true of rodents and insects.
Google:
Toyota - Soy - Lawsuit
Soy Insulation - Rodents
Mold- Soy
Probably fine in dryer regions. In Florida however, I have seen mold on soy insulation. Keeping it dry is key.
|
So you are saying that any rubber/plastic insulation on wiring that ants/bugs eat is organic? How about the foam pads that hikers use under their sleeping bags? (fireants love it)
I've got stupid critters (ground squirrels or maybe it is the rabbits, never actually caught one in the act) that chew on extension cords here in the Mohave desert. Some kind of rat also likes to chew (eat?) on car wiring too. Some of the cars are over 30-40 years old. Is soy insulation that old a tech?
|
|
|
05-27-2021, 02:13 PM
|
#28
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
When it's warm in your location
identify the spray foam pro's there, that do it every day as their living
talk to the boss / owner about doing your bus at a location where they're already being paid to do a building
You do all the cleaning prep, covering / taping off the surfaces you don't want covered, then after its' FULLY cured, scraping off the excess and cleaning up.
Price will be much lower than if they do it as a standalone job.
|
Sounds like good advice.
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:06 PM.