Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-31-2021, 06:46 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Rivetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 893
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
Blanking out fixed windows

OK want to blank out 3 out of 4 windows in the picture. Remove the window and rivet in a replacement piece to the window flange Or, rivet an oversize piece on the outside surface. What would your choice be? I am thinking on the outside so no water pools but
Attached Images
File Type: jpg back of bus.jpg (15.1 KB, 123 views)
Rivetboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2021, 06:51 PM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 455
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E-Md3060
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivetboy View Post
OK want to blank out 3 out of 4 windows in the picture. Remove the window and rivet in a replacement piece to the window flange Or, rivet an oversize piece on the outside surface. What would your choice be? I am thinking on the outside so no water pools but
I would by 1 sheet 18 ga., 4 x 10 , cut three pieces (oversized) and cover it all up. That way you won’t see little squares if you just covered the windows by themselves.
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2021, 06:59 PM   #3
Bus Nut
 
Rivetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 893
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
The problem, or not, is the window That I want to save is the top door one so either way it ends up 3 pieces.
Rivetboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2021, 07:45 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 5,009
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
I deleted the bottom window on my rear door. Riveted a sheet over the opening on the outside (also over the hole for the outer door handle, which I also deleted). I added two pieces of square tubing to stiffen the sheet over the hole. With the rivets, it looks pretty natural on the outside.

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post338642
__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2021, 10:02 PM   #5
Bus Nut
 
Simplicity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 424
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
None of my business, but why do you want to remove them?
__________________
Steve
Simplicity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2021, 10:05 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
TJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 743
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
My vote is the outside surface unless you want to keep the appearance of a window being there.

Ted
TJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2021, 11:31 PM   #7
Bus Nut
 
Rivetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 893
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
None of my business, but why do you want to remove them?
Inslation and the remaining one replaced with a slider
Rivetboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2021, 10:39 AM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Simplicity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 424
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
If after you remove the windows the metal is flat, I'd simply cut out a 1" oversized piece of metal, use some type of sealant metal to metal contacts and rivet around the perimeter, then caulk, prime and paint.
__________________
Steve
Simplicity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2021, 05:40 PM   #9
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,537
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
If after you remove the windows the metal is flat, I'd simply cut out a 1" oversized piece of metal, use some type of sealant metal to metal contacts and rivet around the perimeter, then caulk, prime and paint.
Windows are recessed on both sides. No real cavity to access to insulate.
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2021, 08:38 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Simplicity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 424
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
If that's what Rivet's window frames look like, that's perfect to make a cut-out, insert against the outside flange with sealant and rivet, then go around the outside with caulk.

He can create space on the inside for insulation.
__________________
Steve
Simplicity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2021, 09:21 PM   #11
Bus Nut
 
Rivetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 893
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
[QUOTE= With the rivets, it looks pretty natural on the outside.[/QUOTE]


Hmmmm HaHa I agree beyond the joke some kind of stiffener
Rivetboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2021, 09:45 PM   #12
Bus Nut
 
Simplicity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 424
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
For a stiffener, how about JB weld two strips of sheet metal in an X pattern across the inside of the cover panel.
__________________
Steve
Simplicity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2021, 05:30 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 19
Here was my solution. I attached two sheets of 14 ga flanged on the verticle sides and riveted with 1/4" structural rivets over the side windows. The top rivets were riveted to a existing horizontal structural piece inside the bus. Thinking is to fab a some shallow boxes to attach. The lower door window is riveted 18 ga. Not saying this is the best solution.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20210407_161125115_HDR.jpg (178.5 KB, 9 views)
Brian S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2021, 09:32 PM   #14
Bus Nut
 
Rivetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 893
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
Thank you

Hello and again thanks to everyone and all of your suggestions. I think the exterior oversized panel is the winner here. Will use re purposed interior ceiling sheet metal. Have great sheet metal electric shears and a rivet pantogram also that will make it easy.. Stiffeners will be gorilla spray adhesived and riveted . Then the whole inside covered with resisto 60 mm.

Have resitoto'ed almost the whole ceiling and 80 mm Killmatted 1/2 of the deck. Parts on order. This is so fun!

So, once again, the solution is a melding of the cumulative ideas to provide the satisfactory result to the challenge presented.

As my Wife says "Hmmmmm"




Joe
Rivetboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2021, 09:35 PM   #15
Bus Nut
 
Rivetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 893
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
For a stiffener, how about JB weld two strips of sheet metal in an X pattern across the inside of the cover panel.
Have you ever tried Gorilla Spray Adhesive? It moves, unlike contact cement, and then sets forever.

Life long Disciple of JB weld..
Rivetboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2021, 09:45 PM   #16
Bus Nut
 
Rivetboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 893
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Windows are recessed on both sides. No real cavity to access to insulate.
Hi Marc on my bus the inner panels are two piece held in by screws so there should be some room when removed. I will probably fur the whole thing out any how.
Rivetboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×