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03-31-2021, 06:46 PM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Blanking out fixed windows
OK want to blank out 3 out of 4 windows in the picture. Remove the window and rivet in a replacement piece to the window flange Or, rivet an oversize piece on the outside surface. What would your choice be? I am thinking on the outside so no water pools but
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03-31-2021, 06:51 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Tx.
Posts: 2,413
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivetboy
OK want to blank out 3 out of 4 windows in the picture. Remove the window and rivet in a replacement piece to the window flange Or, rivet an oversize piece on the outside surface. What would your choice be? I am thinking on the outside so no water pools but
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I would by 1 sheet 18 ga., 4 x 10 , cut three pieces (oversized) and cover it all up. That way you won’t see little squares if you just covered the windows by themselves.
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03-31-2021, 06:59 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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The problem, or not, is the window That I want to save is the top door one so either way it ends up 3 pieces.
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03-31-2021, 07:45 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,030
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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I deleted the bottom window on my rear door. Riveted a sheet over the opening on the outside (also over the hole for the outer door handle, which I also deleted). I added two pieces of square tubing to stiffen the sheet over the hole. With the rivets, it looks pretty natural on the outside.
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post338642
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03-31-2021, 10:02 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 785
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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None of my business, but why do you want to remove them?
__________________
Steve
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03-31-2021, 10:05 PM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 993
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
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My vote is the outside surface unless you want to keep the appearance of a window being there.
Ted
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03-31-2021, 11:31 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
None of my business, but why do you want to remove them?
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Inslation and the remaining one replaced with a slider
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04-01-2021, 10:39 AM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 785
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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If after you remove the windows the metal is flat, I'd simply cut out a 1" oversized piece of metal, use some type of sealant metal to metal contacts and rivet around the perimeter, then caulk, prime and paint.
__________________
Steve
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04-01-2021, 05:40 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
If after you remove the windows the metal is flat, I'd simply cut out a 1" oversized piece of metal, use some type of sealant metal to metal contacts and rivet around the perimeter, then caulk, prime and paint.
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Windows are recessed on both sides. No real cavity to access to insulate.
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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04-01-2021, 08:38 PM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 785
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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If that's what Rivet's window frames look like, that's perfect to make a cut-out, insert against the outside flange with sealant and rivet, then go around the outside with caulk.
He can create space on the inside for insulation.
__________________
Steve
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04-01-2021, 09:21 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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[QUOTE= With the rivets, it looks pretty natural on the outside.[/QUOTE]
Hmmmm HaHa I agree beyond the joke some kind of stiffener
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04-01-2021, 09:45 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 785
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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For a stiffener, how about JB weld two strips of sheet metal in an X pattern across the inside of the cover panel.
__________________
Steve
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04-07-2021, 05:30 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 34
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Here was my solution. I attached two sheets of 14 ga flanged on the verticle sides and riveted with 1/4" structural rivets over the side windows. The top rivets were riveted to a existing horizontal structural piece inside the bus. Thinking is to fab a some shallow boxes to attach. The lower door window is riveted 18 ga. Not saying this is the best solution.
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04-07-2021, 09:32 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Thank you
Hello and again thanks to everyone and all of your suggestions. I think the exterior oversized panel is the winner here. Will use re purposed interior ceiling sheet metal. Have great sheet metal electric shears and a rivet pantogram also that will make it easy.. Stiffeners will be gorilla spray adhesived and riveted . Then the whole inside covered with resisto 60 mm.
Have resitoto'ed almost the whole ceiling and 80 mm Killmatted 1/2 of the deck. Parts on order. This is so fun!
So, once again, the solution is a melding of the cumulative ideas to provide the satisfactory result to the challenge presented.
As my Wife says "Hmmmmm"
Joe
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04-07-2021, 09:35 PM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
For a stiffener, how about JB weld two strips of sheet metal in an X pattern across the inside of the cover panel.
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Have you ever tried Gorilla Spray Adhesive? It moves, unlike contact cement, and then sets forever.
Life long Disciple of JB weld..
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04-07-2021, 09:45 PM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Windows are recessed on both sides. No real cavity to access to insulate.
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Hi Marc on my bus the inner panels are two piece held in by screws so there should be some room when removed. I will probably fur the whole thing out any how.
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