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Old 05-02-2017, 11:48 AM   #21
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Originally Posted by slaughridge85 View Post
I did 3 1/2" in the floor and ceiling and 3" on the walls. Its pretty much a big styrofoam cooler now... It is extremely easy to heat and cool.
And do you miss the floor space on width of the bus?

Are you the guy with OEM windows and deep window sills?

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Old 05-03-2018, 12:22 PM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 36
Year: 1997
Chassis: E-450 Collins
Engine: 7.3l Diesel
Just about to start my floor insulation next week- would you all recommend attaching the XPS or insulation to the plywood layer at all? These layers to the metal floor? This is what you're talking about with the floating floor having 1/8 inch on all sides to shift?

Forgive my ignorance but this is my first time doing flooring (and insulation).
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Old 05-03-2018, 01:18 PM   #23
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
1/8th" around the edges is for expansion.

If you want the floating floor, then you should NOT be attaching it to the insulation, ply, or steel.

Still haven't cut the roof off (yet) but SOON!! I want to break all the windows lose this weekend and get the bus leveled. Then maybe the weekend of the 19th.
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