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Old 04-25-2017, 05:49 PM   #1
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Cleaning Floor after grinding rust

My husband and I are just to the point before we're going to apply coroseal and just after we grinded all of the nails and excess rust off of the floor.

What would be the best thing to actually clean the metal subfloor prior to the application of coroseal? I was thinking simple mop, but that in my mind would just push everything everywhere. What are your guys thoughts on this? Funds are low, and so can't go buy a shop vac atm.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:52 PM   #2
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Drive to the spray car wash and spend a $1.50 to pressure wash your floor.

It's good to spray it clean before you shower the rust off.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:55 PM   #3
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I just mopped a substantial portion of my bus with ospho today.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:58 PM   #4
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I just mopped a substantial portion of my bus with ospho today.
Ospho and coroseal are similar products. Coroseal requires the rusted surface to Be clean and free of loose rust and other loose debris. I'm sure Ospho would be similar?
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:58 PM   #5
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Drive to the spray car wash and spend a $1.50 to pressure wash your floor.

It's good to spray it clean before you shower the rust off.
I do like this idea.
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:01 PM   #6
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Ospho and coroseal are similar products. Coroseal requires the rusted surface to Be clean and free of loose rust and other loose debris. I'm sure Ospho would be similar?
I just swept it a bit, dumped it around, then i brush it later with a wire brush.
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:20 PM   #7
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First step for me was sweeping out any dust or particles.
Second step was using a lead blower to try blow the rest out.
Third was opening all the windows and driving around for half an hour.
Final was mopping it a few times.
I used water, let it dry. Came back and used ammonia.
Stunk but, the next morning it was spotless.
Applied paint with a roller and done.
My formerly red rust bucket floor looked brand new.
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:27 PM   #8
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DL, you always do a great job. I like how you hammer your way through things.

I've got cats, and therefore will not go the ammonia route.

I like blowing the floors with an air hose better than sweeping. The spray car wash is the most thorough way I'm aware of.
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:50 PM   #9
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Thank ya Robin.
I tend to be a no nonsense immediate direct problem solver haha.
I would have done the power washer but, after saving my skoolie from the great red menace (rust) the last thing I want to do is reintroduce water into the mix haha.
The ammonia smell was gone in a day or two and I knew the metal was ready. The heavy duty industrial metal primer sealer rust blocker paint was horrible. It was like applying epoxy to the floors, the rolling was difficult but coated very nicely and it had heavy fumes for days. I tied fans inside with open windows to try get that sinus burning scent out.
Now, it is safely covered by a layer of two inch rigid foam, one inch of foil faced foam, 5/8ths inch of OSB and a series of mix and match rugs and carpet pieces.
It helped drying the floors when I didnt have skin on my bus haha. Things aired out pretty fast. That was my covered wagon era and I am glad those days are over.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:09 PM   #10
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You really made your floor insulation thick. I'd be looking at raising the roof if I did that. I'm thinking a 1/2" of styrofoam insulation with a 3/4" ply top is about all I can afford height wise.

On my first floor, many moons ago, after cleaning I didn't know how to stop the rust. I cut plywood to fit the floor, then I got a five gallon bucket of Blackjack roof repair and used a tile comb to spread it on the floor before placing the precut ply on top and screwing it down. Surprisingly nobody could smell the tar even during the summer.

I've still got that same bus. The plywood in the floor is rotted out again. It's one of those older buses that has a problem with water entering through the windows and wetting the floor. The plywood is soft again, but the blackjack and steel floor are still good. The steel floor still doesn't rust. Unconventional, but it works. It's probably easier than ospho and all the other stuff. Once the ply went down there was no appreciable smell.
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:03 AM   #11
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Now, it is safely covered by a layer of two inch rigid foam, one inch of foil faced foam, 5/8ths inch of OSB and a series of mix and match rugs and carpet pieces.
2 inch foam AND one inch foil? I'm thinking of turning the framing 2x4s sideways and going 3 1/2". Is there any advantage to using 3/4" ply?

I'm doing a roof raise so losing ceiling and flooring isn't a concern. I would like to do the same on the sides but I dunno how much of that I'm willing to give up.

Floating floors... Transcendence (Mudda Earth) glued his 2x4s. Katelyn screwed hers. Ply all the way across isn't going to leave a lot of room for movement anyway but what's the right thing to do? Make them snug? Cut them 1/8" short both sides? Screw/attach to the floor but not the sides? Final flooring will likely be wood as well. I think tile would break or at least the grout would need constant work from the bus flexing. Any good videos out there?
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:55 AM   #12
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I haven't heard of any videos on tile, but several people have done it previously. It's more common in the larger coaches of course. You apply the tile and grout with a more flexible method than used in normal housing.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:04 PM   #13
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I haven't heard of any videos on tile, but several people have done it previously. It's more common in the larger coaches of course. You apply the tile and grout with a more flexible method than used in normal housing.
Sorry, I meant videos on floating floors, what to attach where, etc.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:34 PM   #14
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That's also been a frequent subject here. I find it interesting that floating floors vary from truly floating to screwed or glued down.

The general though is that a floating floor would eventually be held down by the partition walls you build in the bus.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:02 PM   #15
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That's also been a frequent subject here. I find it interesting that floating floors vary from truly floating to screwed or glued down.
Exactly!!

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The general though is that a floating floor would eventually be held down by the partition walls you build in the bus.
That's what I was thinking too. I have 1,000 lbs of birch ply that is now cabinets, counters, etc. sitting on top of it. It's got the walls keeping it from sliding off the floor when I pull 4.7 G on a left turn. With cabinets and counters attached to the walls, even upside down, the flooring should stay in place. I can see screwing/gluing/otherwise attaching to keep it from squeaking but no need for other movement.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:22 PM   #16
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I've also got plans for a floating floor, but I'm sure going to tack it down so it doesn't tend to get misaligned. I have no experience with floating floors, but in a vibrating vehicle it just makes sense to prevent any possible movement, even if it's not tightly fastened down.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:33 PM   #17
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I've also got plans for a floating floor, but I'm sure going to tack it down so it doesn't tend to get misaligned. I have no experience with floating floors, but in a vibrating vehicle it just makes sense to prevent any possible movement, even if it's not tightly fastened down.
Assuming 1/8", where the hell is it going to go?
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Old 05-01-2017, 02:45 PM   #18
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Either you're taller than I am or you've got a shorter ceiling height. I've got a few inches to spare before I start brushing the ceiling.

I've had such good luck with this 1/2" rigid styrofoam panels against the windows that I plan to also use that on the floor capped with plywood. It should be 1 1/4" total.

I thought you were doing a roof raise?
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:48 AM   #19
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Either you're taller than I am or you've got a shorter ceiling height. I've got a few inches to spare before I start brushing the ceiling.

I've had such good luck with this 1/2" rigid styrofoam panels against the windows that I plan to also use that on the floor capped with plywood. It should be 1 1/4" total.

I thought you were doing a roof raise?
I'm confused now. 1/8" leeway on the flooring on each side and front/back. Not that there's a hard stop for the front or back. The bed will be raised in the back and there is no stop at the front really.

But anywho, ... yes, I'm probably taller and have a shorter ceiling. I have a 74" bus and apparently I'm more than 74". If I stand up straight, I hit the ceiling. Walking around working ain't bad but I don't want to live that way. If I had the 78" bus, I'd consider leaving as is. But even with a 78" bus, a raise for cabinets would be a "nice to have". Probably not nice enough for the work but since I'm in a 74" there's no choice so ...

I raise the roof 18" and lose 3 1/2" top and bottom (standard 2x4 width) and pick up some serious insulation. The big question is will I give you 3 1/2" on each side to go with it.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:08 AM   #20
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I did 3 1/2" in the floor and ceiling and 3" on the walls. Its pretty much a big styrofoam cooler now... It is extremely easy to heat and cool.
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