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Old 04-27-2020, 11:05 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: East Texas
Posts: 19
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 37' FE Flatnose
Engine: 466DT
Floor?

Please let me know if I'm missing something. I have removed the seats, rubber floor and old plywood. I have also grinded the rust on the floor. I still need to do some grinding in the corners. Then I'll sweep well, use TSP, then pressure wash, let dry, apply Ospho one evening, let dry overnight, sweep well, then pressure wash again, let dry, fill holes with silicone, when dry apply bondo, let dry, then sand smooth, apply aluminum tape over the holes areas both on top and also under the bus. (The only holes I have are the screw holes from the seats and the rubber down the middle.) I'll then apply two coats Rustoleum Rusty metal primer over entire floor, letting dry between coats, then apply two coats Rustoleum paint, again letting dry between coats.

Once the metal floor is prepared, put down thick plastic to serve as a moisture barrier, then sheets of insulation going lengthwise, taping seams. On top of the insulation, put down tongue and groove plywood going horizontally. Then tongue and groove vinyl planking, going lengthwise. Would I need to glue down the vinyl planking? What about screwing down the plywood? Also would I need to paint the plywood on both sides to give it extra protection from rotting? Would I need a 1x2 framing above the metal floor to put the insulation in or just lay 1 1/2"-2" insulation boards on top of the plastic sheeting, then put plywood directly on the insulation, then cover with the vinyl planks?

I was also thinking that I might cut the heavy plastic I'm using for a moisture barrier wider, so that I could bring it up the sides about 8" or so to the railing of that lower side panel I have to leave in, then I'd make sure to put insulation on the lower sides over it, for extra moisture protection there. Would it help any or not? Anything I missed as far as making the floor solid, waterproof, and warm?

Oh, one more question what do I do about the area between the driver seat and pedals? It had just metal. If I put insulation, then plywood, then vinyl flooring it would raise the floor too much and the pedals couldn't go all the way down, but if I leave just metal, that area gets very hot (I have a front engine flat nose that gets very hot in the driver's area.) Also how can I insulate that big old box in the middle, where the engine is. It is hot and loud!
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Old 04-28-2020, 01:09 AM   #2
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 785
Year: None
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I would try to use some sort of chemical that converts rust to primer through a chemical process before applying any paint. As to the area around the driver seat you refer to, I would look at Dynamat after applying the aforementioned chemical and paint. Dynamat is a very good sound deadening product, seems to help with insulating as well/
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:48 AM   #3
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 111
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner
Engine: MBE 906 Mercedes Benz Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maggie01 View Post
Please let me know if I'm missing something. I have removed the seats, rubber floor and old plywood. I have also grinded the rust on the floor. I still need to do some grinding in the corners. Then I'll sweep well, use TSP, then pressure wash, let dry, apply Ospho one evening, let dry overnight, sweep well, then pressure wash again, let dry, fill holes with silicone, when dry apply bondo, let dry, then sand smooth, apply aluminum tape over the holes areas both on top and also under the bus. (The only holes I have are the screw holes from the seats and the rubber down the middle.) I'll then apply two coats Rustoleum Rusty metal primer over entire floor, letting dry between coats, then apply two coats Rustoleum paint, again letting dry between coats.

Once the metal floor is prepared, put down thick plastic to serve as a moisture barrier, then sheets of insulation going lengthwise, taping seams. On top of the insulation, put down tongue and groove plywood going horizontally. Then tongue and groove vinyl planking, going lengthwise. Would I need to glue down the vinyl planking? What about screwing down the plywood? Also would I need to paint the plywood on both sides to give it extra protection from rotting? Would I need a 1x2 framing above the metal floor to put the insulation in or just lay 1 1/2"-2" insulation boards on top of the plastic sheeting, then put plywood directly on the insulation, then cover with the vinyl planks?

I was also thinking that I might cut the heavy plastic I'm using for a moisture barrier wider, so that I could bring it up the sides about 8" or so to the railing of that lower side panel I have to leave in, then I'd make sure to put insulation on the lower sides over it, for extra moisture protection there. Would it help any or not? Anything I missed as far as making the floor solid, waterproof, and warm?

Oh, one more question what do I do about the area between the driver seat and pedals? It had just metal. If I put insulation, then plywood, then vinyl flooring it would raise the floor too much and the pedals couldn't go all the way down, but if I leave just metal, that area gets very hot (I have a front engine flat nose that gets very hot in the driver's area.) Also how can I insulate that big old box in the middle, where the engine is. It is hot and loud!
How thick, and what type of plastic? I'm cleaning rust off my floor as we speak, so this is my next few days project.
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