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Old 03-13-2019, 07:31 AM   #1
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Year: 2006
Floor help

Just bought a 2006 saf t liner!!!
I am beginning demolition and realizing I have a few newbie questions.
Iíve got most of the seats pulled out and started pulling up the rubber floor. There is no plywood under the rubber so itís just sticky stuff under ther. Probably contact cement? How important is it to scrape that stuff off? I am thinking that it is a bad idea to paint rustoleum directly onto it? Should I rub acetone then scrape it off?
The rust is minimal. Is it worth treating with ospho or will rust killing paint do the trick?
What are the best ways to fill in these a bolt holes? Will polyurethane caulk shrink over time? Is there a better filler specifically used with metal? Also heard of an idea to caulk/glue pennies over the holes. What would be the best way to get them to stay in place?
Does anyone worry about the metal condensation underneath floor? Should I put down a vapor barrier or make it so that my subfloor can breath? I am planning on putting down 1 in foam and then floating 1/2 in osb, and flooring on top of any osb exposed after built ins.
Hopefully that is not too many questions!
Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:23 AM   #2
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Year: 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pileatedtothepalm View Post
Just bought a 2006 saf t liner!!!
I am beginning demolition and realizing I have a few newbie questions.
Iíve got most of the seats pulled out and started pulling up the rubber floor. There is no plywood under the rubber so itís just sticky stuff under ther. Probably contact cement? How important is it to scrape that stuff off? I am thinking that it is a bad idea to paint rustoleum directly onto it? Should I rub acetone then scrape it off?
The rust is minimal. Is it worth treating with ospho or will rust killing paint do the trick?
What are the best ways to fill in these a bolt holes? Will polyurethane caulk shrink over time? Is there a better filler specifically used with metal? Also heard of an idea to caulk/glue pennies over the holes. What would be the best way to get them to stay in place?
Does anyone worry about the metal condensation underneath floor? Should I put down a vapor barrier or make it so that my subfloor can breath? I am planning on putting down 1 in foam and then floating 1/2 in osb, and flooring on top of any osb exposed after built ins.
Hopefully that is not too many questions!
Thanks!
I'd suggest that the importance of getting the cement off is completely dependent on what you plan to do for flooring. I put industrial vinegar to kill the rust and it loosened the cement as well. I took a wire grinding wheel on my grinder to the floor and it came off pretty easily. Good luck!
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:24 AM   #3
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Year: 2000
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Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84lug
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pileatedtothepalm View Post
Just bought a 2006 saf t liner!!!
I am beginning demolition and realizing I have a few newbie questions.
Iíve got most of the seats pulled out and started pulling up the rubber floor. There is no plywood under the rubber so itís just sticky stuff under ther. Probably contact cement? How important is it to scrape that stuff off? I am thinking that it is a bad idea to paint rustoleum directly onto it? Should I rub acetone then scrape it off?
The rust is minimal. Is it worth treating with ospho or will rust killing paint do the trick?
What are the best ways to fill in these a bolt holes? Will polyurethane caulk shrink over time? Is there a better filler specifically used with metal? Also heard of an idea to caulk/glue pennies over the holes. What would be the best way to get them to stay in place?
Does anyone worry about the metal condensation underneath floor? Should I put down a vapor barrier or make it so that my subfloor can breath? I am planning on putting down 1 in foam and then floating 1/2 in osb, and flooring on top of any osb exposed after built ins.
Hopefully that is not too many questions!
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyInTN View Post
I'd suggest that the importance of getting the cement off is completely dependent on what you plan to do for flooring. I put industrial vinegar to kill the rust and it loosened the cement as well. I took a wire grinding wheel on my grinder to the floor and it came off pretty easily. Good luck!
Just remembering that on of the long pole floor tile removers worked really well too
__________________
Note: I am no longer selling skoolie insurance. I sold my agency and am traveling N. America full time with my family. Wish us luck!
Serenity Bus Project: OUR NEW EBOOK. ITS A HOW-TO GUIDE. PLEASE CHECK IT OUT! --> https://www.serenitybusproject.com/store/p1/So-Your-Dream-Of-Owning-A-Skoolie.html
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:27 PM   #4
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Would wire brushing the floor remove the galvanized finish on the steel. I think I want to avoid using the wire brush if I can, but I also donít want to spend days scrubbing the floors. I will try some acetone or industrial vineagar
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Old 03-13-2019, 04:12 PM   #5
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Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pileatedtothepalm View Post
Just bought a 2006 saf t liner!!!
I am beginning demolition and realizing I have a few newbie questions.
Iíve got most of the seats pulled out and started pulling up the rubber floor. There is no plywood under the rubber so itís just sticky stuff under ther. Probably contact cement? How important is it to scrape that stuff off? I am thinking that it is a bad idea to paint rustoleum directly onto it? Should I rub acetone then scrape it off?
The rust is minimal. Is it worth treating with ospho or will rust killing paint do the trick?
What are the best ways to fill in these a bolt holes? Will polyurethane caulk shrink over time? Is there a better filler specifically used with metal? Also heard of an idea to caulk/glue pennies over the holes. What would be the best way to get them to stay in place?
Does anyone worry about the metal condensation underneath floor? Should I put down a vapor barrier or make it so that my subfloor can breath? I am planning on putting down 1 in foam and then floating 1/2 in osb, and flooring on top of any osb exposed after built ins.
Hopefully that is not too many questions!
Thanks!
use plywood rather than OSB, or you'll be pulling up the floors the first time someone spills some water - done many insurance repair jobs on house trailers with OSB floors, when the hot water tank leaked or the shower stall let water onto the floor, or even by the kitchen sink - OSB swells and delaminates when it gets wet
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:10 PM   #6
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I've heard Advantek is extremely water resistant. Given we're basically sealing moisture from the underside, is it worth putting this in the bus so that anything that spills that get trapped eventually between the plywood and metal floor aren't as damaging? Or is this just being too paranoid?

Then again, is Advantek really that much better than plywood, or is it even?

Chris
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