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Old 05-03-2017, 03:29 PM   #41
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I don't actually have any pennies in my floor. However, I purposely leave dollar bills on the floor so I feel wealthy.
In all seriousness- any decent volume metal shop that does any punching will have buckets and buckets and hoppers full of round blanks.
finding them in thinner gauges may be harder, but if you have a metal fab shop nearby it couldn't hurt to call em up and ask.

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Old 05-03-2017, 03:57 PM   #42
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I think I'd probably weld any holes in the floor, but I haven't done my floor.


When I was a kid I often had a pocket full of those round blanks that come from the metal electrical boxes in new construction. Same size as quarters and used to work in some pop machines. Sorry, east coast it's soda machines.

Sometime I'll take pictures of my blue bus that I used blackjack roof repair tar to seal the holes in the floor. I didn't have to individually seal the thousands of screw holes, but there is a black tar worm dangling from each hole under the bus.
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:28 PM   #43
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I used pennies to cover the holes from excess moisture and critters. I used corroseal, then rustoleum, then used an epoxy glue then there is the penny. So if the coper gets through those 3 layers and makes contact I doubt it is enough contact to cause more problems than when the transportation department hosed the bogeys, gum, and puke out with a water hose.

Just wanted to add my non scientific view.
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:38 PM   #44
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I'm betting your pennies are perfectly safe buried in your floor. In thirty years or so when you're redoing your floor you'll have something to look forward to.
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:34 PM   #45
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I don't actually have any pennies in my floor. However, I purposely leave dollar bills on the floor so I feel wealthy.
This thread is getting epic.
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:34 PM   #46
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In all seriousness- any decent volume metal shop that does any punching will have buckets and buckets and hoppers full of round blanks.
finding them in thinner gauges may be harder, but if you have a metal fab shop nearby it couldn't hurt to call em up and ask.
Ah-hah!! This is what I was hoping for.
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:35 PM   #47
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I used pennies to cover the holes from excess moisture and critters. I used corroseal, then rustoleum, then used an epoxy glue then there is the penny. So if the coper gets through those 3 layers and makes contact I doubt it is enough contact to cause more problems than when the transportation department hosed the bogeys, gum, and puke out with a water hose.

Just wanted to add my non scientific view.
Also helpful! Thanks Crozz.
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:21 PM   #48
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I don't actually have any pennies in my floor. However, I purposely leave dollar bills on the floor so I feel wealthy.
I know you don't but you is both singular and plural.
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:27 PM   #49
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I used pennies to cover the holes from excess moisture and critters. I used corroseal, then rustoleum, then used an epoxy glue then there is the penny. So if the coper gets through those 3 layers and makes contact I doubt it is enough contact to cause more problems
Only takes a scratch. Its a chemical reaction. Doesn't need critical mass or anything.

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than when the transportation department hosed the bogeys, gum, and puke out with a water hose.
:
That said, this statement is also very true.
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:54 PM   #50
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I was plural, but I've lost a lot of weight.
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:24 PM   #51
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I bought some fiberglass resin and glasscloth and fiberglassed over the holes. I'd never worked with fiberglass before, but now I'm kind of addicted to the stuff. It was easy to mix up and even though I only eyeballed the quantities of resin and hardener, it all set up nice and hard in just a few hours, and it's wonderfully waterproof (as I discovered after it rained, and I had puddles all over the floor... going to have to do some sealing on the roof I guess!)

I bought it's cousin, bondo glass, to fill in a whole bunch of screw holes in my outer skin (I reused the panels I took down from my ceiling). I'm going to smear it over some waxed paper, mush it into the holes, let it get tacky, then peel off the paper and see how well it does. After watching numerous youtube videos, I'm optimistic.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:56 PM   #52
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When I was a kid I often had a pocket full of those round blanks that come from the metal electrical boxes in new construction. Same size as quarters and used to work in some pop machines. Sorry, east coast it's soda machines.
A co-worker had on his desk an old-timey bubble gum machine filled with M&M's. Marketing and engineering get along like cats and dogs anyway, but a few times I used half-inch knock-outs instead of quarters in his machine. Ooohhh, the words he spoke! (even though we took turns refilling the machine with candies..)
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Old 05-03-2017, 10:18 PM   #53
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I tried a gum machine with my kids, since they were so willing to waste quarters. That doesn't work. They want the gum and the quarters.
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Old 05-04-2017, 01:13 AM   #54
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I didn't know what the floor would be like after I applied Corroseal. Here's a quick video in case anyone is wondering about it before you did it too. It's like a plastic film on it. I was thinking it would be hard and flake off, but it peels off. Figured I'd share.

https://youtu.be/Zlb8BI5wsx0
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:39 PM   #55
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I have finished removing all of the plywood subfloor and started grinding. What's the best angle grinder wheel? I'm using a dewalt metal shaping tool

Is a patch necessary over the holes? Our plan is to use sealer/ something made by permeated maybe? Definitely looking for suggestions. Thanks


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Old 05-18-2017, 07:06 PM   #56
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By now you know you have to hold the grinder nearly parallel to the floor. Most people take off about 80% of the rust, leaving only the deeper pits. You don't have to spend a great deal of time doing this most of the time. Your floor looks pretty solid in the pics. I see the screw holes. Some people epoxy pennies over the holes while others weld and patch. It's about what you think is the best way to preserve your floor.
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:15 PM   #57
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I can't tell from the pic, but it looks like you took off the guard on your grinder. I leave mine on, and its never gotten in my way at all. I'd put it on if its not on there.
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:54 PM   #58
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The guards come off when you buy grinding disks that are just a bit to big to fit, but they work without the guard. One slip and it's a speed manicure. Always results in skinned knuckles. Recommended if you like adrenalyn and blood.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:48 AM   #59
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I have finished removing all of the plywood subfloor and started grinding. What's the best angle grinder wheel? I'm using a dewalt metal shaping tool

Is a patch necessary over the holes? Our plan is to use sealer/ something made by permeated maybe? Definitely looking for suggestions. Thanks
That looks like a grinding wheel. I tried that ... for about 5 minutes. Use a sanding flapper wheel instead. I bought a 7 inch for the 4 1/2 grinder. Definitely have to remove the guard for that size. They do make them in 4 1/2 as well if you are so inclined.

The grinding wheel is good for removing REALLY thick rust that's still tight (the 5 minutes I used it). But a fresh flapper will be just as good and probably quicker.

Random internet pic

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Old 05-19-2017, 12:09 PM   #60
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My thought on the penny fix - if I were to plug up the holes with pennies, then cover up the floor with foam, subflooring, flooring, etc., with the hopes of never seeing that metal floor again, with my luck, one of those stupid pennies would pop loose, and forever rattle around like a loose rock somewhere in my bus. That would drive me nuts. And anyway, I need to practice my new welding skills with the welder my husband bought me for Valentine's Day. (He bought me a shop vac for Mother's Day, the big ol' romantic). So I'm welding those holes, and I have a few patches too.
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