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Old 04-27-2020, 10:19 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Flooring?

I'm thinking about using interlocking vinyl planks for my flooring. Would they be a good choice? If so, should I glue them down, or just interlock them? Put them down to completely cover the entire floor edge to edge, then put cabinets and furniture over them or do furnishings (couch, closets, beds, appliances) first and then just floor the middle area that's left exposed which would leave just uncovered plywood under the furnishings?
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:59 PM   #2
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There is no question that installing the floor before any cabinets, walls and framing will definitely be easier. For me, I was not sure of what type of flooring I wanted to use. I knew that I would be drilling holes, putting quite a few screws into the floor. If I decided to use laminate flooring, I didn't want to install screws into laminate. Didn't really know if it would split the laminate or not. I felt that the floor would take a beating doing the build out. My floor will be the last thing done. I've seen a few videos of folks using the click vinyl flooring and some said that the floor expanded and contracted with the temperature change. I'm assuming it was a floating floor. If that is the way you go, I would definitely leave a little gap all away around so that it can move
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Old 04-28-2020, 01:11 AM   #3
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Here is our experience.


We put Alure ISO-core "click together" vinyl flooring in the first 12 feet of our bus while we are using it as a moving van. We have it installed wall-to-wall with about 1/4" spacing on the edges. It actually works quite well. It has been two years now. There have been a couple of spots that seperate because I messed up the edges when installing. If you follow the instructions correctly, it stays together well.


Our floor is floating in that it is not attached to the subfloor with glue or screws. However, we have installed three seats which does keep those portions fixed.
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:37 AM   #4
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What kind of temp swings has the floor been exposed to? I used some vinyl flooring in a bus a few years back. Cant remember what its called but it was about 1/4" thick with 1" adhesive edges that overlap each piece. Installed it in 70 degree temps. It did not like the temp extremes in Southeast Idaho and the cold through the winter shrunk it up so now it has 1/4" gaps in it here and there. I want to put some kind of plank flooring in my big bus but it will be exposed to the same temp swings so not sure which product will work for me.
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:05 AM   #5
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I plan on using unfinished utility grade oak hardwood.
Nothing I have found is cheaper. 99 cents a square foot and what’s better than hardwood?? My floor is going to be 2.5 inches thick however. Glad I did the roof raise.��
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
Here is our experience.


We put Alure ISO-core "click together" vinyl flooring in the first 12 feet of our bus while we are using it as a moving van. We have it installed wall-to-wall with about 1/4" spacing on the edges. It actually works quite well. It has been two years now. There have been a couple of spots that seperate because I messed up the edges when installing. If you follow the instructions correctly, it stays together well.


Our floor is floating in that it is not attached to the subfloor with glue or screws. However, we have installed three seats which does keep those portions fixed.
That is what I am leaning to install. Getting real close to that day. Since it is vinyl, is there any reason to install a moisture barrier? Is that the 6.5 x 48” planks? Does it have some kind of cushion attached or is it just planks? If it’s withstanding moving, it sounds pretty durable.
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Old 04-28-2020, 06:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatman View Post
That is what I am leaning to install. Getting real close to that day. Since it is vinyl, is there any reason to install a moisture barrier? Is that the 6.5 x 48” planks? Does it have some kind of cushion attached or is it just planks? If it’s withstanding moving, it sounds pretty durable.
To answer a question above ... temperature swings from 20 degrees F to 110 degrees F. However, since we now have an electric heater I keep the inside at 40 degrees F to 50 degrees F in the cold weather.


In our installation, I installed a layer of Refllectix as the thermal/vapor layer between the sheetmetal floor and the furring strips, then 5/8" Corning Pinkboard, then anoher layer of Reflectix, then 5/8" of plywood (painted on the underside and edges) before laying the vinyl flooring. There is a layer of rubber or something like that which forms a spill-proof layer, so it is a vapor barrier in itself. It is water-proof and a bit of a sound dampener. It is installed in the first 12 feet and we do not use that space for moving our household goods, just for creature comforts. They are multi-width planks of 48" length.
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
To answer a question above ... temperature swings from 20 degrees F to 110 degrees F. However, since we now have an electric heater I keep the inside at 40 degrees F to 50 degrees F in the cold weather.


In our installation, I installed a layer of Refllectix as the thermal/vapor layer between the sheetmetal floor and the furring strips, then 5/8" Corning Pinkboard, then anoher layer of Reflectix, then 5/8" of plywood (painted on the underside and edges) before laying the vinyl flooring. There is a layer of rubber or something like that which forms a spill-proof layer, so it is a vapor barrier in itself. It is water-proof and a bit of a sound dampener. It is installed in the first 12 feet and we do not use that space for moving our household goods, just for creature comforts. They are multi-width planks of 48" length.
Thanks Native for the info. I definitely like the “click type” flooring. I’ve just never used the vinyl.
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:07 AM   #9
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Thanks Native for the info. I definitely like the “click type” flooring. I’ve just never used the vinyl.
The key is to follow the instructions (and the internet videos from the company) exactly. You can only insert the pieces together in one way. If this is not done, the interlocking edges get damaged. This includes which piece is on the floor and which is levered into the piece on the floor.

Tip: Practice with a couple of pieces a little while. Connect and disconnect. The pieces can be disconnected as long as they have not been together for a long time (like weeks/months).
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Old 05-01-2020, 03:04 AM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
In our installation, I installed a layer of Refllectix as the thermal/vapor layer between the sheetmetal floor and the furring strips, then 5/8" Corning Pinkboard, then anoher layer of Reflectix, then 5/8" of plywood (painted on the underside and edges) before laying the vinyl flooring. There is a layer of rubber or something like that which forms a spill-proof layer, so it is a vapor barrier in itself. It is water-proof and a bit of a sound dampener. It is installed in the first 12 feet and we do not use that space for moving our household goods, just for creature comforts. They are multi-width planks of 48" length.
Thanks! This detail of what you did is what I needed.
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Old 05-06-2020, 06:23 PM   #11
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I had my house done with the vinyl planks. I couldn't get the planks to stay clicked together on the sides and ends at the same time, so I had a professional do it for me. On my bus I used sheet vinyl that looks like planks. Bussy McBusface on YouTube did use the vinyl planks and show in great detail how they did it.
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Old 05-07-2020, 07:43 PM   #12
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laminate is decent

I recently installed some laminate flooring from the hardware store. Installed it per normal means and it seems to work good so far. As long as you take in account expansion gaps and the fact it's floating floor, you'll be good.
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