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Old 03-17-2010, 07:13 AM   #1
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Furring Strips

I didn't see a tutorial on it, and while it seems simple enough I figured it would be good to share some ways on how to install them. Do you guys install your insulation first and then screw the strips into the insulation? Or do you guys first put the strips into the metal wall and if so do you use liquid nails to get them on or sheet metal screws? I figured screwing them into the wall would be best, but I am worried about the metal screws coming out the other side of the bus. Please share your experiences.

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Old 03-19-2010, 06:37 PM   #2
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Re: Furring Strips

I figure a good way is to pre-drill holes like you said because that metal is not easy to penetrate, and then line up the wood and secure it in with 1.5" screws. I like the idea of not using and adhesive to make the insulation stick. It makes sense that if you cut it right that you can make it fit nice and snug, I'm sure putting duct tape on the edges of the insulation and sticking it to the strips wouldn't hurt either.
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Old 03-19-2010, 09:15 PM   #3
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Re: Furring Strips

I didn't do anything with my walls, but when I laid them out on my floor I simply designed a grid that would work easily given my obstacles and such without getting too much space between the strips (no larger than 16 inch centers). My strips are attached with liquid nails, but I had to use decent screws and the predrilling technique to hold them in place while the adhesive set up.

Cutting that foam is a pain. There are two methods I've used with success. One is to use a higher tooth count circular saw blade and install it backwards in the saw. This works well, but it's tough to get a straight line so I've also built a rig on a bench that used a piece of wire wrapped around some bolts so I could tension it and then energized the affair with my welder making a hot wire cutter. It's obviously a lot more difficult to engineer than a backwards saw blade, but it sure cuts that foam.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:09 AM   #4
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Re: Furring Strips

The difference might be the polystyrene. My insulation is the lower R-value styrofoam stuff as I was just going for sound deadening and I got a super deal on it.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUskoolietailgater View Post
I didn't see a tutorial on it, and while it seems simple enough I figured it would be good to share some ways on how to install them. Do you guys install your insulation first and then screw the strips into the insulation? Or do you guys first put the strips into the metal wall and if so do you use liquid nails to get them on or sheet metal screws? I figured screwing them into the wall would be best, but I am worried about the metal screws coming out the other side of the bus. Please share your experiences.
I am very interested in what you decide re: screws vs. liquid nails because I do not want screws coming through to the outside either since I am planning on taking down the inside sheet metal to insulate

Please let me know
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:18 AM   #6
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Liquid nails is ok for some applications, but in a wood to metal high humidity application it probably isn't going to hold up too well. Add in the vibration of a bus and travel and I much prefer mechanical fasteners;
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:20 AM   #7
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There is a saying in woodworking and carpentry (measure twice cut once) well that can be applied to drilling and using screws...I myself have built many projects using self
Tapping screws, they drill and secure at the same time..just be sure you have the right screw size and length for the appreciation.
Always be sure to figure on counter sinking your screws so that the outer layer of your project doesn't end up with bumps where your screws are.
Any Type of Glue will fail over time by it self.
I myself do not much care for liguid nails, for some reason it never worked that well for me..
If you can find or have near you some place that builds metal building, they have a product that they put in some seams that will hold anything..comes in a tube like
Liquid nails( don't get it on you as it has to wear off) lol ask me how I found that out.
Good luck and I hope this info will help some..
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoolydoo View Post
I myself do not much care for liguid nails, for some reason it never worked that well for me..
If you can find or have near you some place that builds metal building, they have a product that they put in some seams that will hold anything..comes in a tube like
Liquid nails
You're probably thinking of PL Premium. That stuff is great! I started using Liquid Nails first and was later recommended PL Premium by a friend of mine who works in the construction/carpentry trade. It is far superior.

Wear gloves if you have them, though. As was mentioned it is impossible to get off of the skin. It has to dry and fall off with the dead skin cells.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:03 PM   #9
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I did a bubba job on my mailbox using liquid nails. I couldn't get a screw into the 3/6" steel I'd made my mount out of. I used liquid nails liberally. Plastic to steel. It fell off a month or two later and I got out my drill and bolted it on.
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Old 10-27-2019, 02:07 PM   #10
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Here's what we did! Worked out well so far, plan on spray insulating.

https://youtu.be/HlehgOIA3xk
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Old 11-01-2019, 12:06 PM   #11
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Alright, so it seems most people like to glue (PL Premium) the furring strips to the ribs and run some sturdy screws through the wood into the rib. Now, haven't we just created a thermal bridge between the exterior skin----rib----screw? AND should we be concerned about it? or is the effective thermal bridging so small its negligible?

is it worth gluing and screwing them in and then backing the screws out once the glue is dried?
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:43 PM   #12
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Stick It To Them

I have already removed the interior sheet metal panels and exposed the ribs. My plan is to cut rigid insulation board, use some spray adhesive and make sure that the insulation is the same depth as the ribs. As for the furring strips I will mount them on both side of the metal ribs and fasten them through the sides ---->lIl<---- (My neat lil example.)

I am guessing the snug fit of the foam in the empty spaces and the pressure of the 1/4 plywood will keep it all nice and tight. I could also use the plywood as a base for glue and finishing nail for the tongue and groove ceiling.

My question to you all is...Should I use a Vapor Barrier and if yes...How?

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Old 12-16-2019, 12:47 PM   #13
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This is the YT video I Saw!

Quote:
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Here's what we did! Worked out well so far, plan on spray insulating.

https://youtu.be/HlehgOIA3xk

Ohhhh that's wonderful you are HERE!! Thank you for the great idea!!
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Old 07-27-2021, 11:15 PM   #14
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I'm looking to attach 2x2 furring strips to the bottom of the metal ribs on my ceiling. I'm not concerned about headroom as I raised my roof 18". I am thinking of using small 3" to 4" pieces of 2x2 wood with flat head self drilling screws. I have a couple of questions I was hoping someone with experience can answer.

1. Is it better to use hex washer head self drilling screws rather than flat head screws.
2. I am looking for my ceiling to last a long time. Is using smaller pieces of 2x2 wood a long term solution? Will my ceiling hold up well with this method?
3. Because the ceiling is curved, the 2x2 wood will not sit totally flat on the ribs. I will be using 1/8" EHP rollboard between the wood and metal ribs (to help prevent thermal bridging) so the gap will be minimal but will this cause me issues?

Any other advice on installing furring strips with this method would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks everyone!
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Old 07-27-2021, 11:26 PM   #15
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I'm looking to attach 2x2 furring strips to the bottom of the metal ribs on my ceiling. I'm not concerned about headroom as I raised my roof 18". I am thinking of using small 3" to 4" pieces of 2x2 wood with flat head self drilling screws. I have a couple of questions I was hoping someone with experience can answer.

1. Is it better to use hex washer head self drilling screws rather than flat head screws.
2. I am looking for my ceiling to last a long time. Is using smaller pieces of 2x2 wood a long term solution? Will my ceiling hold up well with this method?
3. Because the ceiling is curved, the 2x2 wood will not sit totally flat on the ribs. I will be using 1/8" EHP rollboard between the wood and metal ribs (to help prevent thermal bridging) so the gap will be minimal but will this cause me issues?

Any other advice on installing furring strips with this method would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks everyone!

PS - I've searched a lot so my apologies if this topic has already been discussed. Most people seem to use thinner than 2x2 wood as furring strips such as 3/4" plywood, but I want to use 2x2 in order to have 3" of insulation in my ceiling.
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Old 07-28-2021, 02:24 AM   #16
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Instead of trying to form them up against the curved ribs, some people think it is easier and better to run them lengthwise down the bus.

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Old 07-28-2021, 06:26 AM   #17
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...I will be using 1/8" EHP rollboard between the wood and metal ribs (to help prevent thermal bridging)...
I like the EHP product, but it's $2.25/square foot...and the Ceratex version of the same thing is $1.05/square foot. I get that from Minseal in Tucson.
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Old 07-28-2021, 07:14 AM   #18
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Instead of trying to form them up against the curved ribs, some people think it is easier and better to run them lengthwise down the bus.

Iíve seen that method quite a bit as well. The reason Iím looking to run the strips the other direction is that I would like to use tongue and groove for my ceiling running from the front to back rather than side to side.
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Old 07-28-2021, 07:18 AM   #19
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I like the EHP product, but it's $2.25/square foot...and the Ceratex version of the same thing is $1.05/square foot. I get that from Minseal in Tucson.
Thanks! I will have to look into that. Unfortunately I already bought EHP for the ribs but Iím thinking maybe I will use the Ceratex to cover the ceiling sheet metal to provide better insulation.
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Old 05-29-2022, 12:54 AM   #20
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These look great, but how did you secure the strips into the metal without creating a thermal bridge? It seems like a screw would condense and potentially rot the wood. I can’t think of any other reliable way to attach them.
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