Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-22-2018, 02:49 PM   #181
Skoolie
 
Mgulley82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 171
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 40' Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126 7.2L
Yeah this was my thoughts as well

I don’t plan on bonding neutral to ground anywhere on my bus except at the generator (yes at, not “in”). This way when I hook up my generator to my inverter (via a 30 amp plug) the inverter will just transfer switch to the generator (which is bonded to chassis)....

If I hook up to shore power the inverter will automatically transfer to that (which should be bonded to the earth).

In this way it should always be safe no matter what source of power I hook up to

Mgulley82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 02:51 PM   #182
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
When you mention the EMT conduit I have to ask does than run from the connection/entrance point to the main panel? Inside or underneath the bus?
Can't picture what you have built with the description or lack of.
If it's fastened to the frame somehow then that is your ground for that pipe only and not the chassis. That would need another ground to the frame itself.

John
Thanks, John. EMT is running around the interior perimeter, attached to wood posts @ each window. It terminates near my electrical cabinet but as of now it's just a piece of conduit with the AC hot/neutral wires running to the service panel. I had planned on running a wire from the conduit itself to a point on the chassis, where the inverter would also be grounded to. Edit: Also, the service panel will be grounded to the chassis.
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 02:56 PM   #183
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Make the connection "at" the generator, anyway ("in" to me implies possibly buried inside the unit somewhere, even though that may not be how you meant it).
Would this be done with a Neutral-Ground adapter plug such as this?
Attached Thumbnails
N-G plug.jpg  
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 03:38 PM   #184
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
Thanks, John. EMT is running around the interior perimeter, attached to wood posts @ each window. It terminates near my electrical cabinet but as of now it's just a piece of conduit with the AC hot/neutral wires running to the service panel. I had planned on running a wire from the conduit itself to a point on the chassis, where the inverter would also be grounded to. Edit: Also, the service panel will be grounded to the chassis.
Ok Drew I get what you have done now. Why did you stop the emt run just short of the panel instead of connecting to the panel? Did you use something other than single conductors in the emt? If you ran romex say or bx perhaps then you needn't ground the emt because that should never get hot if the circuit breakers and/or GFI's are working properly. But better safe than sorry is the way to be.
A ground to the chassis for the service panel is fine but also connect to the bus frame as the chassis sits in most cases on rubber spacers between the frame and the floor of the chassis.

John
__________________
Question everything!
BlackJohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 03:44 PM   #185
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Ok Drew I get what you have done now. Why did you stop the emt run just short of the panel instead of connecting to the panel? Did you use something other than single conductors in the emt? If you ran romex say or bx perhaps then you needn't ground the emt because that should never get hot if the circuit breakers and/or GFI's are working properly. But better safe than sorry is the way to be.
A ground to the chassis for the service panel is fine but also connect to the bus frame as the chassis sits in most cases on rubber spacers between the frame and the floor of the chassis.

John
I wasn't quite ready to permanently mount the electrical cabinet, and so I left the EMT cut short, figuring I would add a ground wire later. I wanted flexibility to be able to move the cabinet around during the build. I just ran regular 10ga wire in the conduit, no romex or bx.

Hadn't factored in the frame vs. chassis, but that totally makes sense and is something I can easily fix.
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 03:47 PM   #186
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
When you see the ground lug on the generator it will most likely be attached to the frame of the genny. That is all you need as the generator and frame are then as one, being connected electrically for continuity to ground and mechanically in its connection to the genny frame.

John
__________________
Question everything!
BlackJohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2018, 02:26 PM   #187
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
Would this be done with a Neutral-Ground adapter plug such as this?
Yes those N-G bond plugs are a convenient way of making the connection.
family wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2018, 09:50 PM   #188
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Coastal Bc
Posts: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma View Post
I'm about to start building my skoolie, and I have so many questions on framing, pluming, diesel maintenance, etc. But I have no electrical related questions however. Why? I'm an electrical engineer. I work with low voltage circuitboards, all the way up to 480Vac and 600Vdc lithium battery stacks! I also used to build EVs. While other more knowledgeable people are answering my plumbing and carpentry questions, I'm here to answer your electrical ones. Battery banks, solar, wind power, gennys, 120Vac, DC-DC converters, you name it!
Just starting a new Build, a 2005 ford E450 Eldorado Aeroteck. I have a fair bit of experience.This is my 3rd custom build. Just Used a simple battery isolator on my last build and of course my house batteries suffered. Looking for a smart Battery isolator 3 stage charger to run of the alternator . What would you recommend keeping in mind a very tight budget ?
Also thinking of 4-6 volt golf cart batteries or 2-12 volt for the house batteries need whats most cost effective for now
I have a 2000 watt inverter I will reuse
Will add solar later
I also work my batteries very hard drain them down below recommended as I run all electric because I cant use any propane due to health reasons
terzo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2018, 12:00 PM   #189
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Quote:
Originally Posted by andreap View Post
Thanks so much, Steve! As for the AIMS, our researching proved that to be a good decision.

So appreciate your encouragement to keep at it...we have read many posts and plans but mostly struggling to understand what to do when wires are mismatched, or how the generator interfaces with the inverter, how to put the fuse between the charge controller and the batteries, etc.

My husband laid out all the stuff in our living room and is excited to work on it. Just feels like we literally need someone standing over our shoulder saying, "use this here..., that goes there..., don't do that!!..." Haha!!

We are taking our kids to national parks this summer so have 10 weeks to get this (and a million other things) figured out.
I have this inverter as well. It does say to use 4/0 wire but I can't find a 4/0 FUSE to attach to it, so we got 2/0 wire and fuse. 4/0 seems like overkill for a short run and we plan on having it be short.

Do I need something else to charge/maintain the batteries or does this inverter do that?

Do I really need to make sure the battery cables are all the exact same length and rotate the batteries due to weird charging/usage effects? I have 4 × Duracell 6 volt 220 amp hr FLA batteries all the same date 6/18. Is it really a problem to add more later from a different batch? I have read a lot of conflicting things and I don't know enough to be able to evaluate what is true and or meaningful for my situation. Perhaps some of these things do make a difference, but for non FT use it doesn't matter enough to justify the extra work and or equipment to maximize the life/efficiency or whatever of the batteries? I think we need more like 10-12 batteries so I need to figure this out soon.

Also, I live where it is COLD at night. There are only a few nights per year in the summer when it is above 50 degrees. It's normally in the 10s-40s overnight, which means the batteries are going to be much less efficient. So my son wants to store them inside and vent them to the outside. Apparently if they are in a "sealed box" this is ok, but what does that mean exactly? Should the box be made of metal in case of explosion? Or is plywood ok perhaps covered with some leftover sheet metal from the ceiling? How far away from the fuel tank or anything else should it be? He is thinking right behind the driver near the electrical panel to minimize the battery cable runs.
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
2martins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2019, 02:22 PM   #190
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 9
I am a total newbie and do not understand more than just the basics of how batteries, solar and inverters work. All the info I can find is technical or mathematical etc. I am hoping someone can help me understand my issue.
We bought a professionally converted skoolie. We have 2 X 12v/200ah/10h AGM batteries, 4x 100w solar panels wired to a rover mppt controller, a renogy pure sine wave inverter (built into storage under our chairs) and a remote for the invertor (on the wall - so that is the visible way of seeing what power we have).
We picked up our bus in July and drove around for about 5 weeks rarely plugging in. We don't use much power - just to charge laptops and phones. Then we hit forests and our battery ran down and the invertor alarm sounded We plugged in but the renogy settings were wrong and it wouldn't accept the 30v. Eventually we got it sorted but it went down to 8.5v on the renogy remote display.
We charged up and all was fine but ever since, we feel as if our batteries are not holding power. They are at 13.3v after float and drop down to 12.8v quickly. After a day in the sun and 90 mins driving they were 12.6. by morning 12.3. the only draw is the invertor itself and the compost toilet fan. Is this normal?
We wanted a system that allowed us to to off grid for as long as possible but this only now lets us stay away from power for a couple of days. Help!
Rutherama is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2019, 09:54 PM   #191
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6
Year: 1958
Coachwork: Chevrolet Viking Bus
Engine: 1992 5.7L Cummins Diesel
What is this piece of electrical equipment?

What is this? It has no label that I can find.
Attached Thumbnails
1031191841a.jpg  
Allie 66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2019, 11:31 AM   #192
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allie 66 View Post
What is this? It has no label that I can find.
Looks like an inverter to me.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2019, 05:55 PM   #193
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 6
Year: 1958
Coachwork: Chevrolet Viking Bus
Engine: 1992 5.7L Cummins Diesel
Thanks for the help! I found it mounted in my RV, but not plugged in.

I managed to blow something in my RV and am trying to trace the source. I have no power in the coach, either AC or DC. But when I turn the motor over, I have DC power.

This sounds crazy, but I'm suspicious of my shore power cord.























'
Allie 66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2019, 11:08 PM   #194
Skoolie
 
DrDanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Fredericksburg, VA...for now
Posts: 154
Year: 2005
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 72
110V AC Cable

Well, I think I have finally decided to go with stranded rather than solid wire. Now the question is "What wire do I use?". I guess the big question I have is about the insulation around the three conducting wires that make it a cable (like the yellow sheath around romex). Is it necessary to get cable that has that insulation? (like this tray cable) Or would it better in some way to run something like this 12/3 THHN that is just twisted together through conduit?


Many thanks, O great and powerful Hive Mind.
DrDanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 09:07 AM   #195
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDanger View Post
Well, I think I have finally decided to go with stranded rather than solid wire. Now the question is "What wire do I use?". I guess the big question I have is about the insulation around the three conducting wires that make it a cable (like the yellow sheath around romex). Is it necessary to get cable that has that insulation? (like this tray cable) Or would it better in some way to run something like this 12/3 THHN that is just twisted together through conduit?


Many thanks, O great and powerful Hive Mind.
Take a look at :

https://www.amazon.ca/131310-Marine-...05896237&psc=1
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 09:50 AM   #196
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Central MN
Posts: 191
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3L
This is what I ran in conduit in my bus. Good call Steve.
__________________
GaryC
Gustav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 11:12 AM   #197
Skoolie
 
DrDanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Fredericksburg, VA...for now
Posts: 154
Year: 2005
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post

Thanks! I have seen some people using that stuff; I was just trying to find a compromise between marine grade and romex (cost/quality/durability).
DrDanger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2019, 01:47 PM   #198
Bus Crazy
 
banman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Moved to Zealand!
Posts: 1,517
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDanger View Post
Thanks! I have seen some people using that stuff; I was just trying to find a compromise between marine grade and romex (cost/quality/durability).
The 'thing' as I understand it is:
You don't want a solid core wire in a vibrating environment -- anywhere the solid wire is clamped down (like at an outlet) becomes a concentration point of the vibrations and after time the connection can break -- before it breaks, it will crack -- that will lead to a steep rise in electrical resistance which leads to fire and death...

So we only use multi-stranded wire in aviation, automotive, marine, etc...

Will you ever have a problem using romex? Maybe not -- the solid core wiring in my 1962 Fireball camper still looks a lot better than many a residential house wiring I've looked at...
banman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2019, 01:05 PM   #199
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 523
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird, Collins
Chassis: G30 Bluebird Microbird, E350 Shuttle Bus
Engine: 1995 Chevrolet 350, 1992 Ford 460
Is your camper really called Fireball?? What a ominous name.
I’m getting ready to wire my old Motorhome after raising the roof. Thanks for the pointers. Marine grade is nice but seems a bit expensive for a bus or RV. But I prefer to err on the side of caution.
Doktari is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2019, 03:56 PM   #200
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
The 'thing' as I understand it is:
You don't want a solid core wire in a vibrating environment -- anywhere the solid wire is clamped down (like at an outlet) becomes a concentration point of the vibrations and after time the connection can break -- before it breaks, it will crack -- that will lead to a steep rise in electrical resistance which leads to fire and death...

So we only use multi-stranded wire in aviation, automotive, marine, etc...

Will you ever have a problem using romex? Maybe not -- the solid core wiring in my 1962 Fireball camper still looks a lot better than many a residential house wiring I've looked at...
I have seen solid Romex fail in a mobile environment. Both failures where at the receptacle. It looked to me that the installer may have nicked the conductor when stripping.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Starting my Research.. finding more questions than answers admiller Conversion General Discussions 0 09-15-2014 11:36 AM
electrical questions proconsul100 Electrical, Charging and Solar 5 03-31-2014 01:28 PM
Electrical Questions iowacamper Conversion Tutorials and How-to's 32 11-15-2013 04:09 PM
Electrical questions BUSBOZO Electrical, Charging and Solar 10 02-09-2010 10:20 PM
So many electrical questions Dolores Conversion Tutorials and How-to's 4 07-25-2008 08:48 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.