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08-19-2015, 02:17 PM
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#21
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 4
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Roof mount tanks
Hey guys still in the research phase but looking to full time with my family of five. I was thinking about mounting a low profile water tank on the roof that would feed directly to our shower area and would be warmed by the sun.
We would still have a fresh water tank boxed in in the very back under our master. Anyone see any issues legal or other wise with using a roof mount tank I know I'll have to be aware of my vertical clearance.
Thanks
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08-19-2015, 02:58 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Other than weight affecting center of gravity & potential leaks...should work.
I would not, however, consider any tank mounted that high that did not have a lot of internal baffling.
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08-19-2015, 03:16 PM
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#23
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 4
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Tango
Thanks yah it would be pretty small. Something I would fill daily or every other that could be drained and removed for when we're driving.
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08-19-2015, 05:08 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Something an inch or so deep but with a large surface area would probably collect & transfer the most heat.
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08-19-2015, 05:21 PM
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#25
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Other than weight affecting center of gravity & potential leaks...should work.
I would not, however, consider any tank mounted that high that did not have a lot of internal baffling.
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What he said. Water is heavy. Over 8 pounds per gallon. Are you talking 25 gallons or 100 gallons?
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01-29-2016, 10:53 AM
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#26
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 61
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First time posting.
Lower the center of gravity, safer to drive. I'd prioritize safety first.
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02-20-2016, 11:15 AM
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#27
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 102
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on a scale of 1 to 10 how feasible is this or is it just crazy? if u have an undercarriage water tank mounted and secured, could you spray foam the entire exterior to keep it warm for the winter and then just box it with plywood or something?
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02-20-2016, 11:52 AM
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#28
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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According to Ameri-Kart, poly fresh water tanks should be boxed with something rigid like plywood insulated or not. I think of the tank as a waterproof liner more or less, not designed to be structural entirely on its own. I'd like to figure out a way to roll some beads into sheet metal for mine rather than using plywood, but it's roughly the same idea.
Insulating the tank is a great idea. I plan to insulate mine too, though I haven't made up my mind between board or spray-applied foam. Keep in mind you may need a heat source too. If there's sufficient water in the tank (thermal mass) and average temperature is above freezing then you'd be OK. But if average drops below freezing for a while, or if there isn't enough water/thermal mass to get through the night, the tank would eventually freeze despite the insulation. You can add heat by consuming water and refilling the tank (adding water at 40-50 F), by looping back the output from the domestic water heater into the tank for a while, etc. Since I'm hoping to heat my bus with hot water/glycol, I'm thinking of putting a coil of tube under each tank to heat them.
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06-11-2016, 08:56 AM
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#29
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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What are people putting around the tanks to protect from abrasion? Also, can the tanks be mounted to the floor supports safely or should I really Mount to the frame rails. Ive already put my subfloor down but seems the easiest way would be the bolts through the floor. I don't have welding experience or a welder and have limited space under the bus to mount my Grey tank and propane tanks due to the nice storage compartments.
Driver side has this space
Space between storage compartments is Only 32in so I would need a box type tank.
Ironically my 100 gal freshwater tank is a good fit to go in that space between the storage compartments and I could bolt that to the frame rails but I don't know how rugged those tanks are.
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06-11-2016, 02:57 PM
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#30
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,264
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
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I would use a couple aluminum fuel tanks and the associated brackets. Bolt 'em to the frame rails, quite possibly no drilling required. Welding would be involved, mostly just the required plumbing fittings/threads.
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06-11-2016, 08:10 PM
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#31
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur
I would use a couple aluminum fuel tanks and the associated brackets. Bolt 'em to the frame rails, quite possibly no drilling required. Welding would be involved, mostly just the required plumbing fittings/threads.
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So the welding would be to weld on the plumbing fittings. Perhaps I could get one of those rubber grommet deals that people were talking about that you put in a hole and then slide pipe into it? I suppose it's not as big a deal with the tank because I could easily transport that somewhere were someone could weld for me. Grey tank just needs a hole to drop waste in, a hole to drain and a hole to vent?
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06-12-2016, 09:36 AM
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#32
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: East Coast kid
Posts: 142
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 66
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But if your tank is indoors and weighs, say, 800 pounds wet... where is it best suited from a floor plan perspective? ...between the axels? ... behind the rear axel? Does it matter if it's not on the centerline of the bus?
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06-15-2016, 11:08 PM
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#33
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: East Coast kid
Posts: 142
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjnye79
But if your tank is indoors and weighs, say, 800 pounds wet... where is it best suited from a floor plan perspective? ...between the axels? ... behind the rear axel? Does it matter if it's not on the centerline of the bus?
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Did I miss a thread which already discussed this?
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06-28-2016, 07:31 AM
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#34
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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I think I'm going to see if I can pay someone to mount my tank due to the welding I'm uneasy about. The only 2 ways I can think of is bolting through the floor or welding some sort of mounting system to the floor supports and attaching other side to the frame rails. I may ask him for advice because if he just plans on bolting through the floor I can do that but is that really secure enough? And would I bolt right through the supports or right next to them with some big ol washers? I have the next 3 days off and one way or another I'd like to get this bad boy mounted I just need to get some holes covered somehow
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06-28-2016, 07:37 AM
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#35
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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06-28-2016, 02:26 PM
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#36
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: East Coast kid
Posts: 142
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 66
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Has anyone here ever used a 55 gallon drum (plastic) as their fresh water tank? I'm wondering how would be best to secure it (inside the bus).
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06-28-2016, 02:50 PM
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#37
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjnye79
Has anyone here ever used a 55 gallon drum (plastic) as their fresh water tank? I'm wondering how would be best to secure it (inside the bus).
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I've not seen one inside, but you can hang it under the bus like One Nation Under Goat.
Pm Fred for some good pics. Looks AWESOME. Seen it in person!
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06-28-2016, 03:13 PM
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#38
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,264
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricW
I think I'm going to see if I can pay someone to mount my tank due to the welding I'm uneasy about. The only 2 ways I can think of is bolting through the floor or welding some sort of mounting system to the floor supports and attaching other side to the frame rails. I may ask him for advice because if he just plans on bolting through the floor I can do that but is that really secure enough? And would I bolt right through the supports or right next to them with some big ol washers? I have the next 3 days off and one way or another I'd like to get this bad boy mounted I just need to get some holes covered somehow
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I would Absolutely *NOT*, under any circumstances, weld brackets to the frame rails. Drill holes in the "sides" and you should be fine. Do *NOT* make holes in the "tops" and "Bottoms" of the frame rails (The flanges).
Highly paid and well funded engineers worked this out for you already, just use some recycled round fuel tank brackets and bolt 'em to the sides of the frame and you're good to go.
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06-28-2016, 03:33 PM
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#39
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: East Coast kid
Posts: 142
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I've not seen one inside, but you can hang it under the bus like One Nation Under Goat.
Pm Fred for some good pics. Looks AWESOME. Seen it in person!
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That being said, what are your thoughts on water tank being inside versus outside? We do intend to visit colder climates, but probably nothing extreme and not extended periods of time.
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06-28-2016, 04:07 PM
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#40
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjnye79
Has anyone here ever used a 55 gallon drum (plastic) as their fresh water tank? I'm wondering how would be best to secure it (inside the bus).
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Supposing you want the drum standing upright, conventional water heater earthquake strap seem like a fine option. Or E-track with nylon straps.
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