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Old 11-10-2020, 11:34 AM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Harrisburg, PA
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Year: 1999
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466
I ended up using pennies to fill the holes in my floor that were from the bus seat bolts. It seemed that most of the criticism of using pennies is that the difference in materials (most pennies are 95% copper 5% zinc) could cause a reaction against the gal steal if moisture or air became present. I decided to use steal pennies to fill in the holes as they are 99% steal and 1% zinc. Steal pennies were minted in 1943 because copper was needed for bullets in WWII. They cost about $.10 each but I already had a bunch from when I was younger and collected coins. Thought I would share this in case anyone else had doubts about using copper pennies.

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Old 11-10-2020, 12:13 PM   #22
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During WWII, the Manhattan Project used giant electromagnets to enrich Uranium. Because the copper for these magnets was not available, they instead checked out all of the silver owned by the US Treasury and manufactured the wire from that. Literally throwing money at a problem.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:43 AM   #23
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We used 6mm automotive plugs as seen in this photo.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BPS6W8tAjcg/

https://sasquatters.com/subfloor/
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Old 02-18-2021, 03:12 PM   #24
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Year: 2007
Coachwork: Mid Bus
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Any reason I can't just use butyl mats to seal the floor? I was thinking of covering my floor with those anyway. I would think that they would work just fine to seal the holes rather than pennies or another similar solution.
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Old 02-18-2021, 04:35 PM   #25
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Initially I poopooed all over this stuff, but if you’re looking for something that’s a heavy duty rust inhibitor, like undercoater. This stuff works great.
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Old 02-18-2021, 06:15 PM   #26
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I started using it because my dad sealed a spot on my sister’s roof 5 years ago with it and it is still tenaciously holding up. I like the gorilla brand stuff as well because it goes on thicker. I have also used it as a sealer on customer vehicles with good success you just cant tell anybody you are using it because nobody takes it seriously.
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Old 02-24-2021, 12:09 PM   #27
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I used metal reinforced bondo resin to cover all the holes left behind on my bus, including the holes on the floor after the seat removal, I also used it to fix the plastic around my gear shift which was broken, some sanding down after it dried and the stuff looks flawless, Im looking to buy another quart or half gallon as soon as I see it at the store but they were out online where I ordered and It hasnt been in stock since 🤧
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Old 02-24-2021, 12:30 PM   #28
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5200 is adhesive/sealant

Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshie View Post
Aluminium squares and 3M 5200 is what I used. That 5200 is the best sealer I've come across. Some of the squares have come up since but the 5200 hasn't moved. Traditionally it is used as a marine sealant, for both above and below the waterline.
5200 is amazing! But it should really be considered a permanent waterproof adhesive. If used in conjunction with mechanical fastening, the structure will fail before the joint. It is commonly used with bolts to attach the deck and hull of boats. Never use it for windows or hatches, you will never ever get them apart again. Cheers, Kev.
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Old 02-24-2021, 01:39 PM   #29
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Thanks for this I have some rust holes i need to patch up around the wheel well edges and I was thinking about hiring someone to weld in the patches vs just gluing them with some sort of industrial adhesive and them bolting them down, now I know I can probably just try try and bolt it all down.
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Old 02-24-2021, 01:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finixie View Post
Thanks for this I have some rust holes i need to patch up around the wheel well edges and I was thinking about hiring someone to weld in the patches vs just gluing them with some sort of industrial adhesive and them bolting them down, now I know I can probably just try try and bolt it all down.
There are probably many more who can give you better advice than I (I’m just collecting data for purchase of my own bus). But from what I have read, the wheel wells are a very important safety feature; keeping a disintegrating tire from entering the cabin. I’m assuming to achieve protection, the wheel well should be properly welded to adjacent flooring - just guessing! Peace, Kev
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Old 02-24-2021, 03:13 PM   #31
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For the seat holes, these fit snug & flush. $7 for 100pc, sold by Uxcel, Amazon
Sealed with PL Roof & Flashing (urethane sealant) which is safe on metal & xps foam. I primered & painted my seat holes. 10mm may work, otherwise.

This is especially easy. If you have kids helping, it's as simple as crawling around.
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Old 03-14-2021, 06:52 PM   #32
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Floor Prep

I started out with the twisted wire brushes on my grinder. It was taking forever and doing a poor job. Bought a medium size "abrasive" blaster and used coal slag to blast the sheetmetal floor. Does a great job, drastically fasterbut a bit more expensive and more time in cleaning up the blasting material. Just my two cents.
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Old 05-29-2021, 02:31 AM   #33
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I remember reading somewhere that Flex Seal is repurposed automotive underbody coating.
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Old 07-26-2021, 05:04 PM   #34
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We've got a relatively rust free bus so no major repairs to deal with, just some small spots and a little surface rust. We'll be treating with CORROSEAL (rust converter) and then painting with RUSTOLEUM.


We're going to seal the seat bolt holes with plastic snap in plugs dipped in silicone sealant and snapped in. All those tiny holes from the srews that held down the wood sub floor will be sealed with pop rivets that are dipped in silicone.


All from Amazon.
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Old 07-26-2021, 09:18 PM   #35
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Year: 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jholbert View Post
I ended up using pennies to fill the holes in my floor that were from the bus seat bolts. It seemed that most of the criticism of using pennies is that the difference in materials (most pennies are 95% copper 5% zinc) could cause a reaction against the gal steal if moisture or air became present. I decided to use steal pennies to fill in the holes as they are 99% steal and 1% zinc. Steal pennies were minted in 1943 because copper was needed for bullets in WWII. They cost about $.10 each but I already had a bunch from when I was younger and collected coins. Thought I would share this in case anyone else had doubts about using copper pennies.
I hit each penny with liquid nails, I doubt any of the copper is touching steel.
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