ITS ROOF RAISE TIME: Am I A Green Light?

[TaliaDPerkins]

Thank you Ross.

[incubus]

Because the Thomas buses taper from the windows up to the roof it makes him more difficult to raise. Again I cut the Hat Channel at the midpoint of the window with a grinder. I use two sections of scaffold set up inside the boss one in the front one of the rear. I get the adjustable screw legs 16 total. This girl legs have swivel plates on the end I'm out 2x4s front to rear on each set. I raised the scaffold Jacks till snug on the roof cut the hot metal and use custom hat metal made for me by a ductwork company I raised the roof 8 in. Clamped the new hat metal in between the window post. Had to borrow lots of clamps when everything was raised I started welding the Hat Channel in. The difficulty comes in filling in the metal on the back corners in the front because of the taper in I made templates using heavy paper for the corners cut them out of steel and had them rolled drilled and installed. I use sealant on everything I put in. You have more questions I can give you my phone number so much easier to tell someone how to do it then write it all up

[Nick5272]

I’m having a hard time imagining how the cloth helps the drill bit? If I’m using the F cobalt bits Demac linked, are those fine to drill straight though or those need a cloth as well? Am I drilling through the cloth? Do I reuse the cloth until it’s all drilled through? What is the plan there? Thanks again

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by Nick5272

I’m having a hard time imagining how the cloth helps the drill bit? If I’m using the F cobalt bits Demac linked, are those fine to drill straight though or those need a cloth as well? Am I drilling through the cloth? Do I reuse the cloth until it’s all drilled through? What is the plan there? Thanks again

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It sounds more complex than it is, really. For me, learning (accepting) to take so many steps was the hardest part. 'Learning the hard way' did suck.

I only offer a better way, because others have helped my reluctant self, in the past.

Like most wise folks, I collect & keep perfectly good advice in my back pocket, even when I go the other route. Helps me identify when it's time to double back and go the longer, safer or more accurate path. That is, I often follow the map originally offered to me, by those who previously traveled both routes.

This is the path I follow:
Shortened & Pasted from Post #4:

Originally Posted by DeMac

Pilot every hole, using an undersized bit. Increase the hole diameter by stepping up the bit size to ream the hole. This forms a perfectly round, deburred hole as the size is increased.


I typically use 5 bit sizes to complete each rivet hole (7/64", 1/8', 5/32", 3/16", #11) for 3/16" rivets.

Nick5272, Maybe you use three bits:
1/8", 3/16", (F)


Apply (dip into) cutting oil onto the bits prior to every pass. I can not stress the oil enough, lube & piloting will enable a single set of bits to cut several hundred holes.

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Post #4, above is plenty on it's own, Post #24 provides even more information. It really is alot to absorb, using only our imagination.

The tutorial wikihow.com/Drill-Steel linked in #24, is a different method, often used on the final bit (aka the finish size) but also requires a pilot or possibly multiple bits, depending on the diameter of the hole.

Set aside some time to experiment on various thicknesses of scrap sheet metal, already removed from the bus.

Test out both methods. Several holes, spend some time practicing with cheap bits. You will better understand the written text when your hands are in the thick of it.


Nick, You won't be using self tapping screws and are clearly concerned with doing things correctly. You will NOT eff it up, I already have faith in your detail oriented brain. You got this.

[musigenesis]

@DeMac, I need to try out your progressively-larger-bits approach some time.