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Old 07-23-2017, 11:53 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
as far as level.. I think having it level, at least a whole axle makes sense fro ma body flex point of view.. and for sure if its going to get a roof-raise.
-Christopher


That's my concern, Chris. Wouldn't it make things difficult further along in my construction phase?


Thank you very much for the offer, but I'm in Tampa until Wednesday.

You're the man [emoji41]


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Old 07-23-2017, 02:36 PM   #22
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There must be a couple of old 747's parked down there that carried the Shuttle. Maybe you could rent one and put the bus up top.
Just a thought...lol

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Old 07-23-2017, 03:37 PM   #23
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I've always cut scrap 2x12 into different lengths... Then screwed them together, longest on bottom to shortest on top.

Say for 3 high, I use 30", 24", and 20" for the front footprint, and double side by side for the back footprint... Then I use my handy dandy dial level from harbor freight. Sometimes I don't need to rest on the top board, but somewhere in between. Air brakes help with that!

But, I also have an obsession with gathering scrap wood wherever I can.

And if soil is very impressionable, I cross another 2x12 at 90° to make a platform
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Old 07-23-2017, 06:29 PM   #24
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I leveled mine with a single 20-ton Chinese jack and 2 x 12 cribbing. Now have it on concrete but did the same routine minus the cribbing.

And yes...you really need to start at level for nearly all the build out.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:31 PM   #25
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You could just let the air out of the tires on the high side. But not for to long you do not want an out of round tire.
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Old 03-22-2024, 01:37 PM   #26
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I don't want to create a new thread as I have a similar predicament to this and believe I have solved it.



Like the bus in the picture, Inner Love is parked on a minor slope (8-10 inches height difference between front and rear tires) with one side on dirt and the other on driveway. I want and need to get the weight off the tires, all of which haven't moved for close to two years now. There is already hairline spider web cracking on what appears to the outermost ply of the rear tires resting on the driveway. The side on dirt does not have this as the tires are sunk in some, thus spreading the load across more of the tread.


The driveway edge is just beyond the frame rails, and is already cracked up (mainly because my mother didn't want to wait 30 days before driving vehicles on it), so I can have hard support for all jack stands on the concrete driveway. After reading some threads on other forums, I've decided I will make cribbing out of plywood as I don't have access to railroad ties and I want this to last for life.



Since the slope is less than a few degrees, and I can get away with making a few more cracks in the driveway, I am looking to use self leveling driveway epoxy to flatten the spots I need to put the jack stands on, as 1x1 half inch A36 steel plate costs $57 at MetalsDepot.com (I didn't check the shipping cost, but I can't afford to do it this way). While I could get away with using jack stands on what many people would consider a slight slope, I would not feel good about this.



When I can, I will be buying 4-6 of these jack stands, found at

https://www.amazon.com/BIG-RED-ATZ12...dp/B09ZNTWYZG/



, and buying a 20 ton pneumatic driven jack like this one, found at

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton...ack-59426.html



- to take the weight off my bus tires and level my bus for the rest of the interior build.
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Old 03-22-2024, 02:11 PM   #27
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Taking the weight off your tires is a smart plan!


Keeping your tires OFF the soil/grass is also a good thing.
don't forget to also cover your tires in order to reduce the sun's uv rays from drying out the tires or having dogs/animals pee on your tires.

Cribbing with plywood...NO!

Use either 4x4 or 6x6 lumber for your cribbing making sure you do not set the wood down on grass or dirt if you can. Placing a concrete brick would be ideal for a base for your cribbing, if on dirt/grass.
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Old 03-22-2024, 04:24 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
Cribbing with plywood...NO!

Use either 4x4 or 6x6 lumber for your cribbing making sure you do not set the wood down on grass or dirt if you can. Placing a concrete brick would be ideal for a base for your cribbing, if on dirt/grass.

I saw this post on this forum and agreed with the merits of this method when adapted from making leveling ramps to making cribbing blocks out of rectangle cuts of plywood. Next time I will write out all of the important details about how I came to a decision.



I need to find some canvas tire covers made for large truck tires. If not available, I will just have to cover each tire in a single canvas cloth. I like painters canvas cloth because they are super durable and they are naturally UV resistant (but not naturally mold / mildew resistant, which is OK for chaparral climate).
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Old 03-23-2024, 11:34 AM   #29
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below the wood cribbing on the dirt use some 12x12 pavers to build a good flat level base for your wood. block is not as strong on its smooth side. the only way block has strength is where it has no footprint as it made to be on concrete footings
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Old 03-23-2024, 03:15 PM   #30
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Tire covers

A set of tire covers is cheap, even big ones. I got a set of four for around $45 a few years ago. I think I got them on Amazon. They fit my 11R-22.5 tires.
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