Long-term parking on land.

[emiholla]

I've seen some similar questions, but they're more about the legalities and such.

My questions are more practical, and I'm eager to get them resolved, as I'm moving to "some land" here in about a week, the beginning of April. Crap, its less than a week. Yikes!

The subject of my questions:

1. Sealing holes in floor from bolts and previous toilet/sink install.
I have some flashing from an HVAC company; they have plenty of scraps that they just throw away, and they were free. What's the best method to adhere these to the floor over the holes? We have one coat of rustoleum protective enamel down; under that, we had cleaned and ground off the rust, and used a rust neutralizer on the worst spots. (A rustoleum brand spraypaint.)

I'm wondering what to use to adhere the flashing to the steel-covered-in-rustoleum? I'd like to avoid screws if possible.

This is a serious budget project right now; Eventually, I will do flooring and insulation and all that, but I'm looking for immediate, quick, cheap ways to keep bugs from getting into my bus, or at least the part I'm inhabiting.




2. Parking long term on some dirt. What do to?
Looking for some ideas on keeping the longevity of my bus's driving ability, though I'll be parking for (most likely) several years. Let's just say, right now, one year.

Concerns with tires? I have some plywood that I can park the tires on. Good idea, bad idea? I was also thinking about surrounding the base of the bus with strawbales. I thought this would help insulate, and maybe protect the tires from UV. Again, good/bad idea?

Also, I've thought that maybe I should jack it up somehow and put it onto stands or something, to lift the tires off the ground all together. Not sure how this would be done, but just trying out some thoughts. Once this beast is up on a mountain, well, I just want to preserve the longevity as best I can. Again, looking for budget, clever ideas.



There are some other questions, but these are the most pressing for now.
There are some pics on my blog: https://splittingelm.wordpress.com/

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas, guys and gals!

[lornaschinske]

Originally Posted by emiholla

1. Sealing holes in floor from bolts and previous toilet/sink install.
I have some flashing from an HVAC company; they have plenty of scraps that they just throw away, and they were free. What's the best method to adhere these to the floor over the holes?

This is what I did. Does not mean you have to do the same: We kept the rubber flooring on top of the steel floor. I used a small hole saw to just cut thru the rubber and used a chisel to remove the little plug of rubber (the rubber on our floor is very well stuck down). I put a generous dot of Henry 212 clear elastomeric patch on the metal, placed a small piece of clean flashing (cleaned oils off with vinegar) cut to fit inside the small space removing the rubber left. Let dry. Then filled the remaining space with more 212 and let dry.

2. Parking long term on some dirt. What do to?

... I was also thinking about surrounding the base of the bus with strawbales....

Here is a link to a good mousetrap to make with a 5 gallon bucket. It does work pretty well too. I made one when an RV pulled in next to us that was literally dripping with mice. And you can use the bucket for other things later. Or set back up a mousetrap if needed again.

[somewhereinusa]

From the reading I have done, the absolute best thing for tires is to "exercise" them regularly, preferably at least once a month. Mixed thoughts about covering them up, general conclusion is it really don't do any good. Depending on location plywood is going to rot away, quite quickly. If you aren't going to move it jacking it up might be an option, but at least around here things tend to sink into the ground when sitting. If it has "ok" tires on it now I would just wait until I was going to drive it then buy new tires.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by lornaschinske

This is what I did. Does not mean you have to do the same: We kept the rubber flooring on top of the steel floor. I used a small hole saw to just cut thru the rubber and used a chisel to remove the little plug of rubber (the rubber on our floor is very well stuck down). I put a generous dot of Henry 212 clear elastomeric patch on the metal, placed a small piece of clean flashing (cleaned oils off with vinegar) cut to fit inside the small space removing the rubber left. Let dry. Then filled the remaining space with more 212 and let dry.

[B]Here is a link to a good mousetrap to make with a 5 gallon bucket. It does work pretty well too. I made one when an RV pulled in next to us that was literally dripping with mice. And you can use the bucket for other things later. Or set back up a mousetrap if needed again.

My grandad used to catch rats and vermin in one of those. It works quite well.

[taskswap]

Originally Posted by lornaschinske

[B]Here is a link to a good mousetrap to make with a 5 gallon bucket. It does work pretty well too. I made one when an RV pulled in next to us that was literally dripping with mice. And you can use the bucket for other things later. Or set back up a mousetrap if needed again.

These things are great. I have one in my attic and one in my soon-to-be-sold-for-a-bus-camper. The best part is the antifreeze preserves the little critters so they don't smell. Don't put them anywhere pets or wildlife can get to, though.

Peanut butter is the best bait. It stays smelly for a while, and mice love all kinds of nuts. Common myth about mice and cheese. Mice don't eat cheese. They have no way to milk a cow and curdle the milk in the wild!

[Hank's P-O-S]

Originally Posted by emiholla

2. Parking long term on some dirt. What do to?
Looking for some ideas on keeping the longevity of my bus's driving ability, though I'll be parking for (most likely) several years. Let's just say, right now, one year.

Concerns with tires? I have some plywood that I can park the tires on. Good idea, bad idea? I was also thinking about surrounding the base of the bus with strawbales. I thought this would help insulate, and maybe protect the tires from UV. Again, good/bad idea?

Also, I've thought that maybe I should jack it up somehow and put it onto stands or something, to lift the tires off the ground all together. Not sure how this would be done, but just trying out some thoughts. Once this beast is up on a mountain, well, I just want to preserve the longevity as best I can. Again, looking for budget, clever ideas.



There are some other questions, but these are the most pressing for now.
There are some pics on my blog: https://splittingelm.wordpress.com/

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas, guys and gals!

The ground where my bus get parked is REALLY soft clay.
The few times I have driven the bus in and out has already created big ruts and deep holes where the tires sit.

Next week ill be going to get a bunch of used railroad ties to make a platform to park on. I was thinking of laying 3 side by side and then bolting them together using 1/2 inch all thread. Then chainsawing off the end to create like a ramp to drive the bus up onto them.

Then for the winter when the bus get trapped by the snow I am going to jack up the bus and set it back down on the axles. Im assuming that the blocks should get as close to the outside as possible to try and maintain some stability.

hope this helps.

[nat_ster]

I would not do the straw bales. They will trap moisture, mice, and mold.

If you insulate your bus, you don't need any skirting.

I like the railroad tie platform other than the smell of creosote in the sun. It also pollutes the surrounding soil.

Holes in floor can be covered by a metal patch epoxied to the floor.

Or fiberglass cloth laid over the hole, and coated with epoxy.

Silicone down a metal patch after cleaning both the metal floor and the patch with isopropyl alcohol. This cleans the surfaces and ensures a good bond.

Automotive seam seal.

Ect.

Nat

[taskswap]

Note that where holes are near/above important things like bolts and engine components, silicone has an added advantage: you can get a pry tool under there and lever it back off. This works both for metal and fiberglass patches.

For fiberglass, lay out a sheet of plastic on a flat table and two layers of fiberglass cloth, a few inches bigger than your hole. Wet it out, lay another sheet of plastic on top, and squeegee to remove air bubbles. When cured, peel off the plastic and trim to shape. Fiberglass has a lot of advantages, it's just going to be more expensive than metal if you don't already have the stuff to do it.

If anybody has any questions about fiberglass I can start a thread just for that. I've worked with it for years.

[nat_ster]

Originally Posted by taskswap

If anybody has any questions about fiberglass I can start a thread just for that. I've worked with it for years.

Thx tankswap.

Nat

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by taskswap

Note that where holes are near/above important things like bolts and engine components, silicone has an added advantage: you can get a pry tool under there and lever it back off. This works both for metal and fiberglass patches.

For fiberglass, lay out a sheet of plastic on a flat table and two layers of fiberglass cloth, a few inches bigger than your hole. Wet it out, lay another sheet of plastic on top, and squeegee to remove air bubbles. When cured, peel off the plastic and trim to shape. Fiberglass has a lot of advantages, it's just going to be more expensive than metal if you don't already have the stuff to do it.

If anybody has any questions about fiberglass I can start a thread just for that. I've worked with it for years.

I've got just one question, will you come finish my cap for me, flare it in nice & make it even

[taskswap]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

I've got just one question, will you come finish my cap for me, flare it in nice & make it even

Ha, no. But seriously, it's really easy and the tools/equipment are cheap. I think metal-working takes way more skill.

[HolyBus]

So how much would a urin diverter cost? I see a guy over in England that is selling them and puts them on ebay for $50+ US$. His are plastic but I was thinking of playing with fiberglass and trying to make one or two for our bus.

[HolyBus]

O.k. Maybe I didn't need to post this but how do you empty this thing? Cut a hatch/access panel maybe and use a smaller barrel and this might be an idea to consider. Sorry about the hijack.

[bansil]

mount a wall mount urinal that would be cool

[jazty]

Originally Posted by Hank's P-O-S

The ground where my bus get parked is REALLY soft clay.
The few times I have driven the bus in and out has already created big ruts and deep holes where the tires sit.

Next week ill be going to get a bunch of used railroad ties to make a platform to park on. I was thinking of laying 3 side by side and then bolting them together using 1/2 inch all thread. Then chainsawing off the end to create like a ramp to drive the bus up onto them.

Haha.. that's awesome. I had the exact same idea for our property! The place we'll be parking it also has clay under the top soil. I've actually been having a difficult time getting a hold of railroad ties, though. I'm also a bit concerned about the smell when the sun is hitting them.

[jazty]

Originally Posted by nat_ster

I like the railroad tie platform other than the smell of creosote in the sun. It also pollutes the surrounding soil.

Oh, yep.. I see Nat already covered the smell issue

As for contamination; I would expect it would be minimal since the railroad ties are a decade old, but they still stink so maybe they're also still leaching creosote.

[Hank's P-O-S]

Originally Posted by jazty

Oh, yep.. I see Nat already covered the smell issue

As for contamination; I would expect it would be minimal since the railroad ties are a decade old, but they still stink so maybe they're also still leaching creosote.

Hmmmm.... I forgot about that. I think that I'll still use them, smells not an issue. There's far too many mosquitoes to ever open the windows. As for leeching, some plastic will stop that will it not?
Maybe I'll try free hand milling with my gutless 42cc chain saw and make my own timbers. It's not like they have to be square, strate, or level! It's not like my stuff ever meets thoes requirments anyway! ;)

[taskswap]

If you hate the smell you can paint them with an oil-based paint. It won't stick all that well but it'll cut the smell down a LOT. I did that with a few lengths I was using to patch a retaining wall - I primed them with Kilz Primer and then brown paint. It only lasted a 3 years but it was cheap and easy. I did it for looks, but it definitely eliminated the smell.

It's super hard to mill with a 42cc chain saw - for anything above a few inches in width you really need 50+ and a skip-chain. But since you don't need a huge width you can try noodling - hold the chainsaw so it's at around a 45-50-degree angle to the wood, so it's ripping out long "noodles". Watch for clogs and it'll be slow going, but it'll manage a LOT better than straight cross-cutting.

If you're up for drilling the bar you can make a ghetto adjustable milling guide out of some carriage bolts. Their round heads ride easily on a 2x4 you nail to the side of the log.

Can you guys tell how much I hang out on arboristsite?

[MotorMike]

Likely this has already been solved but, dig a shallow trench where you want your ties. Put down some garden fabric from any hardware store in the garden section. Put gravel on top that leveled slightly higher than ground level and then lay your ties on the gravel. Lessons the leaching because of little contact with water and provides run off.