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Old 12-23-2018, 01:29 PM   #21
Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Wright City MO
Posts: 280
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/Allison
Rated Cap: 74
I lifted my roof 14" so this may or may not be of value to you as it depends on your and your bus height I left my ceiling in (acoustic metal and fibreglass)and then covered it with 1 1/2" foamular (pink foamboard) screwed throughout with 2" self drilling lath screws and plaster washers plaster washers are washers that are about 1 1/4" in dia and are convex shape and perforated when they start to make contact they flatten out and on foam board they countersink themselves however deep you drive them. I think 500 screws and 500 washers were about 65.00 on ebay.They can be installed any where in the field and in the ribs. They hold like crazy I bought the phillips head screws which makes them a PITA to install but they also make them in hex head(tek screws) which would make install much easier.I am a little over 6' tall so I had to lift my roof as my head rubbed the ceiling of the bluebird when I walked down the middle.

Its hard to be wrong when you live in Wright City!
There is no mechanical problem that cannot be overcome by a skillfully applied combination of brute force and ignorance!
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Old 12-24-2018, 05:35 PM   #22
Tanker Pilot's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Oregon
Posts: 62
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: 8.3 L Cummins, MD 3060 Trans
Rated Cap: 50
Originally Posted by LincolnEcho View Post
Hi and welcome!!

What type of bus do you have? If it's a bluebird the rivets are easy as pie to shear off with an air chisel. Worth all the work because of a: you get to insulate it really good before you seal it back up with the same metal. b: if you decide to use another cover like the strips of wood, you'll have some really good metal for other projects on the bus.

If they are screwed in just leave it. If you already have plenty of headroom then line it with Tyvex and the ornate cover of your choice.
I agree that the rivets are very simple to remove with an air chisel - like 3 seconds per rivet once you’ve done a few. However, my rear most panel on my Blue Bird A3RE had some wicked adhesive along the bottom edges, and along the entire rear edge of the rear-most panel. The panels that just had the adhesive along the side edges were able to be removed with minimum distortion. Those could be re-used. However, the rear-most panel had to be mangled to the point that it would take some pretty good metal working talent and tools to make it right. From what I have read elsewhere in this forum, the consensus is that the metal is not worth re-using once you get it down. Luan or some other wood product would give you better insulation, and IMO, a better look. I plan to use the 5mm luan or cross-grain birch.
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Old 12-24-2018, 05:57 PM   #23
Bus Geek
o1marc's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Originally Posted by T-Bolt View Post
When I spoke of the "great stuff commercial cans" I was referring to cans of Froth-Pak that is closed cell. Both are made by DOW. As it is approved for use on steel studs, beams and roof decking it should not have any reaction with the steel in a bus.

One thing that is often overlooked here is the return on investment and long term plans for the bus. For instance there are vast differences between college kids going on road trips and long term full timers. There are countless points in between. Sometimes doing something that isn't a "best practice" works fine for your goals.
The problem you will have is the metal will not contain the expansion of the product and will waffle your ceiling. Now can you imagine the work that lays ahead when you realize that after the fact?
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:59 PM   #24
Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
This waffling problem only happens when you do it wrong.

Learn how to do it right - see above for starters - or get a pro, no such problem.
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