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03-13-2016, 05:52 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Danville, Illinois
Posts: 23
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
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newbie needs help with electrical
Hello everyone, I am new here but have been reading posts for months, been dreaming about my bus for about 3 years. I finally got to buys my bus about a month ago. I got a 2002 with a DT466. I have NO CLUE about electrical so please speak to me as if I were stupid. I know what I want but I am not sure how to do it exactly, so I want to put in a shore line, and a 4000 watt inverter. I want the shore line to power when hooked up and then inverter to power when not. I want the alternator to charge my house batteries when they need it but I want to keep starter batteries and house batteries separate... can someone please give me some kind of sematic to show exactly how the wires would run from item to item including the breaker box. I DO NOT WANT A GENERATOR OR SOLAR POWER. is this set up possible if I am plugged in or driving at all times?? Thanks for your help! Misty
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03-13-2016, 06:16 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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03-13-2016, 07:37 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Danville, Illinois
Posts: 23
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
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Yes I seen that post but I got confused when I read all the comments and someone said to use a converter not an inverter.
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03-13-2016, 09:40 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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A converter takes 120v AC shore power and converts it into 12v DC. Most converters also incorporate a battery charger too. The better ones are three stage chargers which do a much better job of keeping batteries charged than the older/cheaper single stage chargers.
An inverter takes 12v DC from the battery bank and makes 120v AC to power stuff that you could normally plug in at home.
To confuse things a bit, you can also get an inverter/charger (also known as a standby inverter). These units combine an inverter and a converter/battery charger and are wired to both shore power and the battery bank. Electronics inside the unit monitor the shore power line and automatically switches to battery/inverter power when shore power is unplugged. These are pretty expensive but do a good job of automatically switching between shore power and battery power.
Getting 12v and 120v power to peacefully (and safely) co-exist is the hardest part of the bus conversion puzzle. Boondockers usually try to be light energy users and typically use small inverters and smaller battery banks. Campground campers tend be set up much more for 120v AC and use the battery bank/inverter to power stuff while driving.
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03-13-2016, 09:55 PM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Danville, Illinois
Posts: 23
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
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Yes, I have been looking at inverter/converter/battery charger all in one... That is the way im going to go I believe. Smartest way for us as we are camping ground people. And with 5 kids (teens) there are always phone chargers, laptops, t.v., an Xbox, fridge, fans and whatever else going. Lol.
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03-13-2016, 10:12 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Danville, Illinois
Posts: 23
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
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Bare with me
OK so if I use the 3in1 it should go like this?
Shore line
To
50amp inlet
To
3in1 inverter/converter
To
Ac breaker box, remote panel battery bank
To. To nothing. To
120v outlets. DC fuses
To
12v lights, 12v sockets
Then from right side it goes
Alternator to
Starting batteries to
Relay to
Battery bank
??
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03-14-2016, 07:57 PM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Danville, Illinois
Posts: 23
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
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Got it, thanks roach, u r awesome. Ordering parts tonight and we are on spring break next week so I will let ya know how it goes... Lol
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03-21-2016, 11:43 AM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Gunnison, CO
Posts: 15
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 66
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Wow Misty, it sounds like you are in better shape than us!
Great information in this thread, thank you Misty and roach.
Is it possible to do a similar setup what Misty has suggested, but to incorporate a generator into the mix as well? A generator as an alternative to the alternator charging the battery bank?
Additionally, what should I look for in a battery relay?
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03-21-2016, 01:23 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Danville, Illinois
Posts: 23
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
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If u click the link in Roach's first reply u will find a schematic that shows it with a generator. I went to a local rv shop and found a very helpful man who pointed me to a relay. They also sold an inlet, distribution panel, inverter/charger, shore power lines, and other items. Good luck, we are going to try to hook it all up this coming up weekend. Will let you know how it goes.
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03-21-2016, 10:48 PM
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#10
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Danville, Illinois
Posts: 23
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
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OK, so I finally figured out how to get my picture uploaded but only to my profile page so if y'all wouldn't mind going to take a look and let me know what ya think I would greatly appreciate it! If ya see any problems please let me know. Thanks
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09-23-2016, 11:30 PM
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#11
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Almost There
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 89
Year: 1999
Chassis: MVP RE
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
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Karma8282, Did you get your electrical set up on your bus? I'm new on this forum and look to convert my bus too. Been reading on the site for some guidance on the electrical. Today, I started removing the seats.
If you have completed your electrical, what components did you buy?
Bud
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09-23-2016, 11:53 PM
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#12
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 171
Year: 1995
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Carpenter
Engine: d466 mechanical
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budbud7
Karma8282, Did you get your electrical set up on your bus? I'm new on this forum and look to convert my bus too. Been reading on the site for some guidance on the electrical. Today, I started removing the seats.
If you have completed your electrical, what components did you buy?
Bud
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First recognize your wants and needs, and then plan your system
__________________
Nowhere Fast - Sarasota, Florida
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09-26-2016, 11:29 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Music City USA
Posts: 737
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Detroit MBE906
Rated Cap: 72
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I have my core electrical system mapped out.... bear in mind this is still just a draft, very much a work in progress, things may change.... that being said:
This is the electric panel I'll be using:
Parallax Power Supply 500-12P24 50 Amp Distribution Panel with LED
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10-18-2016, 08:04 AM
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#14
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Lowgap, N.C.
Posts: 17
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlleyCat67
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What brand of generator are you considering? I have been looking at the Onan, but sizing vs. weight and fuel is what I am debating. 10K is a big generator. Are you looking at LP gas or diesel? If LP gas, what size tanks are you carrying?
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10-18-2016, 06:26 PM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Music City USA
Posts: 737
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Detroit MBE906
Rated Cap: 72
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I was looking at one from Home Depot but I would have some VERY annoyed neighbors if I ran that more than a short time a day. I like the Onan generators but way too much $$$ for me.
I can't remember if the HD one was gas or diesel but I liked it because it had a 50 amp outlet for me to plug my shore cable into... that way I wouldn't have to bother with a transfer switch.
Still weighing generator options, but for now just to keep a battery bank charged up for boondocking so a 3kw one will be enough.
Oh and no one can get the electric distribution panel I was after so it's back to the drawing board on that too.
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10-18-2016, 09:19 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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If your engine is diesel...a diesel genny is great...but expensive. Just wish someone made a small, quiet, reasonably priced model along the lines of what Honda & Yamaha have in gas.
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10-18-2016, 09:41 PM
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#17
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Music City USA
Posts: 737
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Detroit MBE906
Rated Cap: 72
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10-18-2016, 09:49 PM
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#18
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlleyCat67
I was looking at one from Home Depot but I would have some VERY annoyed neighbors if I ran that more than a short time a day. I like the Onan generators but way too much $$$ for me.
I can't remember if the HD one was gas or diesel but I liked it because it had a 50 amp outlet for me to plug my shore cable into... that way I wouldn't have to bother with a transfer switch.
Still weighing generator options, but for now just to keep a battery bank charged up for boondocking so a 3kw one will be enough.
Oh and no one can get the electric distribution panel I was after so it's back to the drawing board on that too.
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I use the propane powered units that hoe depot sells. its a better price on ebay or amazon with free shipping. Some where out of Florida. The only thing i ran into over the last 3 years is the pull start spring breaks. So pulled the pull start off and its a17 mm crank nut I think. I use my dealt screw gun to crank it up. Starts right away every time. Propane is the best gen fuel ever. Noting to gum out or dry out every year its like starting it for the first time. Propane is good for ever in a tank so there are no additives. Come back in 100 years start it up and binge watch yourself some net flix.
I install and do propane conversions on cars. A little trick to save a few hundred dollars is go to the big box store and buy a 100lb tank. Pull the valve out before filling the first time since its only full of air!!?? Some valves are set up for liquid or gas. your appliances run on GAS your car would run on liquid but your Gent set will probably be gas or vapor. untill you start to need more than 5 hp on a engine you can get enough vapor. Any how that's another topic. You want to pull your valve and if its threaded on the inside install a copper line to a fitting and give it a angel or ark up so when its tight its pointing up. the trick is just mark the valve in what direction the up is on the copper line.then when install the tank now from horizontal to vertical your still getting the vapor or gas at the top of the tank just like the valve did when it had no copper line and the tank was stood straight up. You can do the opposite if you want a liquid tank as well by making the tube suck off the bottom. Propane if you dont know is liquid in the tank so grabbing it at the top its just gas vapor. Most fork lift tanks have a liquid and vapor on the tank and flex hose inside with a weight on the end so it can be installed vertical or horizontal. The hose just fall into the liquid from gravity and the vapor connection is on the end at the top or if its standing up its on the top.
Or if you need liquid in a small car or engine just mount the tanks up side down like 20lb 5 gallon tank and now it runs liquid out the valve.
here is a video of a set up I build if you jump to about 8 mins you get to the tanks.
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10-18-2016, 09:55 PM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Darrington, Wa.
Posts: 304
Year: 1994
Coachwork: Genesis/Am-Tran Tall Roof
Chassis: International, 643 transmission
Engine: DT 466ci 250hp, International
Rated Cap: 86 screaming Monsters
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If you buy propane from a distributor and not a gas station its usually half the cost of diesel. Its well worth it and so many things run on it and gas engines are so much more quite. One thing few people know is there is no fuel washing the oil off the cylinders. Propane is consider what is call a dry fuel. vapor only. So the engines seem to last much longer and oil changes can go many times farther. Spark plugs last at least twice as long. Platinum plugs may not actually were out I have some in the 200k range running around.
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10-18-2016, 11:01 PM
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#20
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Music City USA
Posts: 737
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Detroit MBE906
Rated Cap: 72
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100 lb tank eh? I bet that sucker is a pain to refill, especially if you have to remove it from the bus to take it somewhere. 70 lbs empty weight, plus another 100 for the propane.... I'd have to come up with some kind of lift mechanism to jack it up into place before securing it.
I'm trying to picture the process you spelled out to convert the tank from vertical to horizontal orientation... It seems like pulling the valve would void any warranty on the tank.... but anyway.....
If I'm picturing the process right, the copper line attached to the valve is INSIDE the tank, in the void space left after filling when the tank is flipped on its side. Do I have that about right?
What about thread sealant on the valve when it goes back in?
Does that change affect the operation of the OPD in the tank?
It sounds like this would be a real boon, not having to refill the propane nearly as often. Would also open up some more options for generators. But I want to do it properly, and SAFELY. Propane as you know is not to be trifled with and a mistake can be disastrous, if not outright fatal.
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