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Old 01-24-2022, 09:19 AM   #1
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Removing seats without access to the bottom

Hi:

Just started working on my daughter's skoolie conversion with her (Chevy Express cutaway with Midbus 16 cap. body). Got all the seats/partitions out except one (partition behind driver). The gas tank underneath prevents getting a tool on the bolt from the bottom. Planning on grinding/cutting the bolt head from inside.

Anyone done this before? I plan on grinding the bolt almost all the way, let it cool, and then hammer off the rest. Concerned about the hot bolt landing on the gas tank underneath, and whether it will actually drop out.

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Old 01-24-2022, 11:44 AM   #2
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When I did mine (there were a lot of corroded seat bolts) I did a first pass with a helper to get all the bolts that weren't frozen.

For the bolts that were hopelessly frozen I did a combination of cutting and breaking. Breaking was the easiest. I have a Milwaukee 1/2" impact gun and if the bolt was properly frozen it would pop the head right off making it easy to drive the bolt down with a drift. If that didn't work I would use my angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel and either cut an X into the head and then knock the pieces off with a chisel or, if I could get a good angle on the bolt head, I'd just cut it off.

If you have an impact gun with sufficient torque and the bolt won't turn at all it becomes easy.
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:31 PM   #3
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Thanks oldyeller. I'll try the cutting wheel in an x and see what happens.
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:35 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by mclendenen View Post
Hi:

Just started working on my daughter's skoolie conversion with her (Chevy Express cutaway with Midbus 16 cap. body). Got all the seats/partitions out except one (partition behind driver). The gas tank underneath prevents getting a tool on the bolt from the bottom. Planning on grinding/cutting the bolt head from inside.

Anyone done this before? I plan on grinding the bolt almost all the way, let it cool, and then hammer off the rest. Concerned about the hot bolt landing on the gas tank underneath, and whether it will actually drop out.
Hot bolt won't hurt but I'd just grind em flush and leave em be.
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:38 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by mclendenen View Post
Thanks oldyeller. I'll try the cutting wheel in an x and see what happens.
I found it easier when I was able to shear off the bolt head using torque. If you don't have an impact gun you could try a breaker bar. Assuming the bolt doesn't turn a 1/2" breaker bar, with a strong enough socket, should shear off the head. It would still be easier than using an angle grinder and hammer and chisel.
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:43 PM   #6
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Since these bolts are not rusted and locked, I think cutting off the head will make the bolt drop, whether I cut it off or wring it off. Either method should work it sounds like, but grinding/cutting is more fun!
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:50 PM   #7
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I found it easier when I was able to shear off the bolt head using torque.

You know, if mine weren't turning as freely as an axle in a bearing...
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:52 PM   #8
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Since these bolts are not rusted and locked, I think cutting off the head will make the bolt drop, whether I cut it off or wring it off. Either method should work it sounds like, but grinding/cutting is more fun!
Yea, it'll work just more labor intensive. If you're fortunate enough to have an air compressor and an air chisel you COULD try chiseling off the head with that from the get go. Not sure how well it would work but wouldn't hurt to try.

At the time I took out my seats I didn't have an air compressor on site yet so I had to do it the hard way.
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:56 PM   #9
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You know, if mine weren't turning as freely as an axle in a bearing...
Yea, you're going to need someone under the bus holding. You reminded me that there were a lot of bolts that my helper, or I, held while the other was in the bus with the trusty Milwaukee 1/2" impact and it sheared the head off as well. You just had to make sure the holder didn't have his hand where it could get pinched between the wrench and a frame member - that would be bad.

I gotta say, a battery powered impact gun able to put out over a thousand ft. lb. of breaking torque would be a very worthwhile investment for anyone working on a bus conversion.

You just have to be careful you don't accidentally put the impact on tighten instead of loosen or you'll shear off a bolt you didn't want to shear off. Yea . . . I did it . . . dumbass that I am. STOP LAUGHING!!!!
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:00 PM   #10
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You know, if mine weren't turning as freely as an axle in a bearing...
well get a an angle grinder, some gloves, and a face shield and get to it!
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:10 PM   #11
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well get a an angle grinder, some gloves, and a face shield and get to it!

Yep, been at that.
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Old 01-24-2022, 04:08 PM   #12
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my wifes 04 chevy express/miid bus body has a corrugated ten floor underneath the wood mess so even cutting the heads off the bolt and punching them through just get you through the plywood and most still need some persuasion after the flooring is up.
you shouldnt have anything to worry about over your fuel tank especially being diesel.
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