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09-30-2008, 01:54 PM
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#1
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Saint James, MN
Posts: 2,669
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Re: Removing those seats
There really are only two options. If you have a partner you could have them crawl underneath and hold the nuts with a wrench while you zip the bolts out from the inside. You could use a ratchet, but hopefully you have an impact if that's what you want to do. If you have a bus like mine where you're not going to be able to get many of them in that method (unless I snapped the bolts off) then the grinder is the next best thing. That's how I got all of mine out. I'd love to say it's quick and easy, but honestly...seat removal followed by removal of the old floor was easily the worst part of the whole conversion. At the same time I'm glad I got that out of the way first. Take your time and do it right. You want a good, solid foundation to work up from. As the seats starting coming out I'd be willing to bet the excitement will grow for you. I know mine did even as the days dragged on...
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09-30-2008, 11:25 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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Re: Removing those seats
I used the vise grip method. Bought a few a Harbor Freieght and put them on the bolt heads and went down below with a ratchet wrench. I probably had less corrosion than most, because it went pretty easy. Prying up the floor was some hard work. Removing the goo that stuck the lettering to the outer shell took some time, until I found the right solvent.
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10-01-2008, 08:22 AM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 382
Year: 1981
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Crown
Engine: 671 DD
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Re: Removing those seats
Quote:
Originally Posted by bus-bro
I used the vise grip method. Bought a few a Harbor Freieght and put them on the bolt heads and went down below with a ratchet wrench. I probably had less corrosion than most, because it went pretty easy. Prying up the floor was some hard work. Removing the goo that stuck the lettering to the outer shell took some time, until I found the right solvent.
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What solvent did you use?
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10-01-2008, 10:41 AM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: downriver, detroit mi
Posts: 794
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Re: Removing those seats
Ez off oven cleaner will loosen the stickers without damageing the paint, alcohol usually will cut the sticky goo or use laquer thinner.
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10-01-2008, 12:44 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 382
Year: 1981
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Crown
Engine: 671 DD
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Re: Removing those seats
Thanks for the tip. I've been trying to remove all of the glue for the last two years.
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10-02-2008, 12:17 AM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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Re: Removing those seats
Think I finally used alcohol, will try oven cleaner next time.
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02-04-2009, 10:13 AM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 39
Year: 1993
Coachwork: genesis
Chassis: international harvester
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84
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Re: Removing those seats
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02-06-2009, 10:49 AM
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#8
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Moneta Va going to Central Fla in May
Posts: 74
Coachwork: na
Chassis: na
Engine: na
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Re: Removing those seats
Interesting. I was considering 2 methods: Angle grinder or I have a compressor and a cut off tool(harbor freight---really inexpensive). Once you have an air cut off tool, you will wonder what you did all that time without one. And the replacement heads are EXPENSIVE...$.79 each on average at Harbor Freight. Here is a thought for you as I use a similar method. I purchase long threaded rods from Lowes, screw 2 nuts on and the cut the rod to size. When you remove the nuts it re-threads the ends and you have an inexpensive custom bolt. When I was told this secret I thought they were crazy. Now I always have them on hand. And you can for a few dollars purchase bulk contractor packs of nuts and bolts. I keep assorted sizes of nuts in 1 jar and washers (flat & locking) in another. They are recycled plastic large Prego sauce jars. I was thinking of cutting the head off and adding a nut as needed to the seat bolts to be able to recycle them. I'm the one you see whose wife asks what are you picking up now. I walk thru the parking lot picking up screws, washers, bolts etc for my collection. And when I do use them, she looks the other way cause she knows the "I told you so" is coming.
Scott
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02-06-2009, 10:31 PM
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#9
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Almost There
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 78
Year: 92
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Removing those seats
if you go the cut-off wheel route save the discs by cutting the head of the bolt in half vertically then switch to an air chisel and the head will pop right off the bolt then drive the bolt down and out with the air chisel
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06-08-2009, 01:55 PM
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#10
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 6
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Re: Removing those seats
my girlfriend (she was under the bus, little hands and all) and i had the seats out in a couple of hours using a battery drill and a dogbone wrench, air impact will probably save some life on your battery drill motor though. dude was right about the angle grinder, you will need one with a nice wire brush attachment (get the kind with the twisted bristles) when you get the plywood out. what did u all use to fill the bolt holes, and reseal the floor?
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06-08-2009, 02:29 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Southwest Wyoming
Posts: 334
Year: 1991
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: IH
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Removing those seats
Quote:
Originally Posted by bus-bro
Think I finally used alcohol, will try oven cleaner next time.
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I also used Alcohol. One for the bear-one for the bus. One, two for the bear-two for the bus. One, two, three for the bear-three for the bus. One, two, three, Hic-up..$hit where was I?
__________________
"I've never been lost, but I been mighty confused for several days"
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06-08-2009, 06:45 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: California, Just NorthEast of San Fransisco
Posts: 539
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Re: Removing those seats
There is a cleaner called 'Goo Gone', its a little expensive from what I have seen, but its great at removing the stickum left behind. There are also various 'Orange' cleaners that will cut through the stickum just as easy. But you spray it on, count to 30 and lightly rub with a scotchpad or a scrubber sponge.
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09-08-2009, 05:02 AM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 20
Year: 1985
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Detroit Motors 8.2
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Re: Removing those seats
WOW.
I just got finished taking the seats out of my bus I don't know how many bad names I called my helper (wife) hahahah.
at the end of the day she was cussing/swearing more cuss word at me than I ever heard at work. heheh two days but we got all the bolts/nuts out.. and kept everyone of them. I got one more day off and hope to takle the floor next, then the floor heaters.
Taking the seats out was really hard I couldn't believe it!
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10-14-2009, 04:19 PM
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#14
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 8
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Carpenter
Engine: Detroit 5.9 L Cummings
Rated Cap: 66
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Re: Removing those seats
I just removed the seats in my bus a few weeks ago. Got tired of the ratchet method, and borrowed a friends angle grinder. It worked wonders! Just cut the heads off each bolt and had it done in about 3-4 hrs with a friends help. In my opinion that's the easiest way to go.
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02-23-2010, 11:07 AM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 158
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: Bluebird
Rated Cap: 16
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Re: Removing those seats
I am adding my experience to this reference page.
Use an angle grinder. They run $130 in stores. If you don't have one try to rent one, or buy it and then return it. I bought 4.5' discs at $1.89 per disc. I used 1 every 4 seats. The bolts on the floor were cutoff and then bolts on the side were taken off with a wratchet. I wouldn't want to use the method of holding the bolt underneath the bus while the person inside the bus yanks it out. That stinks.
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02-23-2010, 11:30 AM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 227
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Super Coach II, 36 Ft. RE
Engine: Cat 3208T, MT643
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Re: Removing those seats
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUskoolietailgater
I am adding my experience to this reference page.
Use an angle grinder. They run $130 in stores. If you don't have one try to rent one, or buy it and then return it. I bought 4.5' discs at $1.89 per disc. I used 1 every 4 seats. The bolts on the floor were cutoff and then bolts on the side were taken off with a wratchet. I wouldn't want to use the method of holding the bolt underneath the bus while the person inside the bus yanks it out. That stinks.
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I have three angle grinders. One is more heavy duty that I use with a grinder disk. IIRC, it was about 30 or 35 bucks, bought online. The other two are cheap, lighter duty ones bought on sale at Harbor Freight for about 12 bucks each. I use one with a cutting disk and the other with a flap wheel. Thus I have grinding, cutting and sanding capability without needing to change disks when I change from one task to the other. Pretty handy when I have to switch tasks frequently. No problems so far, even though they were cheap. I may get another one for use with a wire wheel, but so far my old Black and Decker drill has suited this purpose nicely.
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02-23-2010, 12:49 PM
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#17
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Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 118
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: C60
Engine: Chevy 7.4l 454 FI
Rated Cap: 59
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Re: Removing those seats
might as well throw my experience in here,
I had a friend inside with a good air impact gun and me under the bus with a wrench. I think all but say 5 bolts were able to come out this way. they either came loose or the impact twisted the bolt in half, either way they came loose. the few that remained the bolt head was too trashed to get a grip on and the socket spun. I used a cutoff wheel on my 4 1/2" angle grinder to slice the head off. in my opinion the impact was way easier than the grinder. this wont work if you have a junk impact or compressor, you have to have the power to twist the bolt in half otherwise it wont work and forget air ratchets.
the grinder will work if you need to go that route.
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12-16-2013, 01:02 AM
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#18
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Snowflake, Arizona
Posts: 343
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American Rear Engine
Engine: C-8.3-300 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 40 Prisoners
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Re: Removing those seats
hate to disappoint you hard workers it only took me about an hour by myself to
remove the seats as my bus didn't have any nuts on the underside of the floor they
just used self tapping bolts to hold the seats down and I used my 1/4" Matco lithium Ion
Impact on all the bolts it goes to 55 ft lbs. it was the cages that took the most time to
remove. It was a prison transport bus 1996 Blue Bird AARE.
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12-21-2013, 08:05 AM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cleburne TX
Posts: 692
Year: 2001
Chassis: International Amtran RE
Engine: DT466E/MD3060
Rated Cap: 78
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Re: Removing those seats
Dragon...
consider it a present then. Most people struggle with is. Its one of the more difficult issues of demo if your not really equipped to do this kind of stuff.
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12-22-2013, 10:38 AM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Removing those seats
My fist bus I was so excited I forgot my tools, so I used man power and pulled the bolts right through the floor. Most snapped and shot off in any direction. Some pulled right through the floor, a few I had to later cut the heads with a angle Grinder.
My second bus I used my 3\4 corless Milwaukee impact from underneath. Removed all but about 5 that weren't accessible from underneath . Angle grinder fixed the rest.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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