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Old 11-08-2022, 11:33 AM   #1
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Roof raise

Hello all,

we have a International 40' flat nose Front engine bus and wanting to do a roof raise. i would like to do a below window raise.
1. what height are people liking. i was thinking 12"
2. for the metal, we are going with 4' x 12' sheets of Gavlaneal 18ga.
3. would you have them rip the sheets into 15" tall pieces. with a 12" raise, how tall are the pieces i need.

thanks for all help.

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Old 11-08-2022, 12:27 PM   #2
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12 inches is a reasonable raise height. But you'll need sheet steel pieces much wider than 15" if you want it to look decent. Some folks don't care and they just put in enough new steel to overlap the cut...but that looks like ass. I remove upper and lower rub rails and hide the lap joints beneath those. If your rub rails are 18-24 inches apart now, then your sheets would need to be 18-24 +12 (or whatever you raise it by). I hope that makes sense.

Personally, by the way, I use 16 gauge since it's less likely to telegraph structure...iow it lays flatter.

I did document a roof raise, with some pretty good detail, so you can see how we do it. I'd start with the "planning the cut" video first. You'll find them at youtube.com/rollingliving
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Old 11-09-2022, 10:25 AM   #3
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I think you can search this site for roof raise information, but Ross T is not just another opinion-he's the subject matter expert on roof raises!

Also, if you fill out your profile that will help us learn a little more about you and your bus. Where're you at?
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Old 11-09-2022, 09:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor View Post
12 inches is a reasonable raise height. But you'll need sheet steel pieces much wider than 15" if you want it to look decent. Some folks don't care and they just put in enough new steel to overlap the cut...but that looks like ass. I remove upper and lower rub rails and hide the lap joints beneath those. If your rub rails are 18-24 inches apart now, then your sheets would need to be 18-24 +12 (or whatever you raise it by). I hope that makes sense.

Personally, by the way, I use 16 gauge since it's less likely to telegraph structure...iow it lays flatter.

I did document a roof raise, with some pretty good detail, so you can see how we do it. I'd start with the "planning the cut" video first. You'll find them at youtube.com/rollingliving
It amazes me how I have been from one side youtube to the other and not seen your channel. Watched a few and subscribed.
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Old 11-09-2022, 09:53 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Miles O Roads View Post
It amazes me how I have been from one side youtube to the other and not seen your channel. Watched a few and subscribed.

There is a YouTube link on the top of their web page:

rollingliving.com
Click on subscribe

Takes me right to their channel. 63 videos, chock full of specifics and detailed information.

Folks considering a roof raise (diy or commisioned) can easily understand each step which ought to be completed.
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Old 11-10-2022, 11:10 PM   #6
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Takes me right to their channel. 63 videos, chock full of specifics and detailed information.
Thanks, DeMac! And after a bit of an absence from shooting videos, I just posted another short one. I'll get back into the habit again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rucker View Post
I think you can search this site for roof raise information, but Ross T is not just another opinion-he's the subject matter expert on roof raises!
Thanks, Rucker...now I'm blushing. Seriously, though, I learned a lot the first few times and that helped me settle into a system.
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Old 11-10-2022, 11:14 PM   #7
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It amazes me how I have been from one side youtube to the other and not seen your channel. Watched a few and subscribed.
Thanks, MOR. It's a small channel and one that I only started about a year ago. I'm more of a doer than a videographer, so I didn't start documenting anything until I got sort of arm-twisted into doing it. I hope you find something useful in them.

I guess I could work on my promotion game, by the way. I post here or on Facebook under my name, which is not the same as the business name. But sometimes I like flying under the radar on Facebook. LOL!
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Old 11-12-2022, 12:07 PM   #8
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Yes I subscribed and watched a hand full of them. It never fails seems youtube holds back some of it's context. Keep up the good work.
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Old 12-02-2022, 11:23 AM   #9
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Hello All,

I am about to embark or the skoolie journey and will be starting the roof raise process in a couple of weeks. First i have a 2007 freightliner fs65 40'. With that being said I have a couple of questions:
- for the safety brackets or clamps that uses the threaded rod, i was going to use a 3/4 rod and my question is, what thickness plate should i use to welf to frame of bus?
- when the roof is fully raised, I wan't 18" i know this might sound dumb but is there any reason i shouldn't use aluminum rather than steel? reason im asking is I can get my hands on some 18ga aluminum 4 x 10 for really cheap.
- lastly what sealer do people use when riveting new panels on?

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!
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Old 12-02-2022, 03:17 PM   #10
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Hi there, Timbo. Please know that 3/4-inch all thread rod is probably only a bit over 1/2-inch across in the valleys of the threads, and it's not a very high strength steel, so it has very little resistance to lateral loads (pushing sideways) like you might encounter if the bus isn't completely level or if there are any winds. You could bend one over your knee. And it's not very rigid under compression...a condition which gets worse as the raise goes up...so I'd not trust those for an 18" raise, if those are actually providing the lifting and supporting load. As you go up in height, you run the increasing risk that the rod can bow (like a banana) and once that happens it will collapse in short order.

Another forum member just asked about aluminum skins too, in the past week. There are some good suggestions in that thread, if you can find it.

As far as sealer, we only use 3M 5200 Fast Cure for our roof raise lap joints/seams. It's not cheap but it's permanent.
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Old 12-02-2022, 03:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor View Post
Hi there, Timbo. Please know that 3/4-inch all thread rod is probably only a bit over 1/2-inch across in the valleys of the threads, and it's not a very high strength steel, so it has very little resistance to lateral loads (pushing sideways) like you might encounter if the bus isn't completely level or if there are any winds. You could bend one over your knee. And it's not very rigid under compression...a condition which gets worse as the raise goes up...so I'd not trust those for an 18" raise, if those are actually providing the lifting and supporting load. As you go up in height, you run the increasing risk that the rod can bow (like a banana) and once that happens it will collapse in short order.

Another forum member just asked about aluminum skins too, in the past week. There are some good suggestions in that thread, if you can find it.

As far as sealer, we only use 3M 5200 Fast Cure for our roof raise lap joints/seams. It's not cheap but it's permanent.

Is the 3M 5200 Fast Cure silicone?
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Old 12-02-2022, 03:35 PM   #12
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Is the 3M 5200 Fast Cure silicone?
No, I don't use or recommend silicone for anything. It's a moisture-cured polyurethane and it's super strong and suitable for below-water-level use on boats.
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Old 12-02-2022, 04:22 PM   #13
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Timbo,
Larger threaded rod and quality brackets are much less expensive than a crane & operator.





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Old 12-02-2022, 07:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
Timbo,
Larger threaded rod and quality brackets are much less expensive than a crane & operator.





help-roof-fell-during-raise
Totally agreed- but honestly we tested the weight on a 40' bus roof and I don't think they really needed a crane. couple of 2x4's and a couple of jacks and that coulda been rectified.
I think getting it all square and level and planning it all ahead real well is what worked well for that roof raise we did.
Think we used 3/4 all-thread and some 1/4" brackets.
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