Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-03-2019, 03:50 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Joe45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 400
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
Roof raise vs mouth slap

So...


My bus' ceiling is about 6'6". I have considered a roof raise, or a partial roof raise.



But how about, instead of cutting the window pillars, adding instead another structure up top-like from a another bus?


Or...


Building a raised section in the center like the old trollies had.


This would allow me to build/add the section before cutting anything, thus keep things nice and tight and square.


I've also thought of adding the extra section on the front, cutting the top off there so that the ceiling over the driver area is lowered. This would allow about an extra foot of headroom in the loft, considering the max 13.5' height.


Just considering options.
Joe45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 03:56 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
joeblack5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 1,609
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford e350 2 mercedes
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
Or lower the center section of the floor and get your self a bowling alley.
Depends how much more head space you are looking for.


Johan
joeblack5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 04:32 PM   #3
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,948
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45 View Post
Building a raised section in the center like the old trollies had.

Known as "Clerestory Roof". Love to see one added to a bus. Some trolley-style buses have them.
Brad_SwiftFur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 04:36 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Joe45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 400
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
I was considering extra space to install the water tanks inside, under the floor, but it seems like a major thing to take on. I think I'd rather install the tanks below, insulate them, and add heating pads.



If I do add a loft, I can cut out some of the center and raise that part in order to store the fold-down steps.
Joe45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 04:37 PM   #5
Bus Nut
 
Joe45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 400
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
Known as "Clerestory Roof". Love to see one added to a bus. Some trolley-style buses have them.



That may work to store the fold-down steps.
Joe45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 04:40 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 2,943
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Trolley-style buses (with the raised box in the middle of the roof) are notorious for leaking badly. You'd have to build and seal it really well.

Something I'm thinking of doing is making a simple skylight that spans three "bays" between ribs. I would cut three- to four-foot sections out of two ribs, weld transverse beams across the cut ends on each side to create a rectangular frame, then covering the opening with Lexan plexiglass.

This would create a 4' x ~8' area that would give me sufficient room to stand up straight, since the plexi would be at the same height as the outside roof. For cold (or hot) weather, I would make an inside cover for it using aerogel, which gives excellent insulation with little thickness (at really high cost).

At 6'6" this would not help you, though (I'm 6'0"). I think you'll end up finding that a conventional roof raise is the easiest thing to do, especially if you're not planning on keeping the original bus windows anyway.

Somewhere here a few months ago posted an idea about bolting an upside-down aluminum flat-bottomed boat to the roof of her bus and then cutting the roof away. I'm not sure what happened with that plan.
__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 04:49 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Minnehaha Co., SD
Posts: 1,019
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Somewhere here a few months ago posted an idea about bolting an upside-down aluminum flat-bottomed boat to the roof of her bus and then cutting the roof away. I'm not sure what happened with that plan.
Ya know, I like the idea of the trolley-style roof but I LOVE the idea of an upside down boat. That's just awesomely creative.
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 08:32 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,620
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Rather than using Lexan plexiglass, Lexane poly carbonate multiwall material gives more strength and more UV protection than plexiglass. The "cardboard box" design of the material also adds some insulating qualities. Just as an aside, the best way to attach polycarbonate sheeting is with 3M double stick tape. Entire greenhouses are so constructed.

Having used poly carbonate sheeting in my pop top, and after 5 years use I am still sold. I bought a 4 seasons down comforter and sewed it up to match the contours of my pop up securing it with snaps..Granted this took up a little head room but the instant 10 degree F increase in cabin temp (at the same heat setting) made it all worth while.

I've posted this picture before but we all know how hard it is to access info on old posts so here goes---again
Jack

.

If I could find a place to store it, this is the bus I'd like to have.

.

.

.
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 08:41 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 339
Year: 1999
Coachwork: American Cargo 14'L x 7'8"W x 7'H Box
Chassis: Ford E350 Cutaway
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 11500 lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
Rather than using Lexan plexiglass, Lexane poly carbonate multiwall material gives more strength and more UV protection than plexiglass. The "cardboard box" design of the material also adds some insulating qualities. Just as an aside, the best way to attach polycarbonate sheeting is with 3M double stick tape. Entire greenhouses are so constructed.

Having used poly carbonate sheeting in my pop top, and after 5 years use I am still sold. I bought a 4 seasons down comforter and sewed it up to match the contours of my pop up securing it with snaps..Granted this took up a little head room but the instant 10 degree F increase in cabin temp (at the same heat setting) made it all worth while.

I've posted this picture before but we all know how hard it is to access info on old posts so here goes---again
Jack

.
The asymmetric pop-top is very slick an relatively easy to fabricate. I don't think that the trolley-style Clerestory roof will save much money/time compared to a full raise.
alpine44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 08:42 PM   #10
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 2,943
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Is it correct that the polycarbonate multiwall stuff gives more of a diffused translucence rather than true transparency? I'm going to consider it since I don't really plan to look through my skylights very often. Being a lot cheaper than the plexiglass is certainly an advantage.

I would feel kinda weird having a skylight that was only stuck on with tape, but I assume you can't really drill through this stuff.
__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 09:20 PM   #11
Bus Geek
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,620
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Sure you can drill----but it'll leak. I tested "all" the usual stickems like silicone, Silka flex etc and all failed to stay stuck under load for more than a week. After much reading on the 3M site I tried their best quality double sided tape--5 years later it is still holding just fine with no leaks. I should mention that I did seal up the open ends of the poly carbonate with clear silicone to keep bugs and dirt out.
Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2019, 12:05 AM   #12
Bus Nut
 
Joe45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 400
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
That's some truly cool stuff!!!
Joe45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 03:58 PM   #13
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Manitoba Canada
Posts: 134
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Tomas
Engine: 7.3l
Rated Cap: 72
Raise it in center on Windows, you won't regret it
Frogpondfoug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 04:16 PM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Southeast
Posts: 15
Year: 97
Engine: International 3800
I installed a square of lexan plexi on the roof to make a skylight. drilled right through it to attach it via bolts (and silicone washers) to the outer roof (did this while the inside ceiling was down), but not before applying a mess of silicone caulking to the overlap area and to the outer bolt heads. Have had no problems with leaks.
captnredbeerd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 05:20 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
TheRollingBones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 61
Love open air and blue sky? Just want to know if you have ever considered taking the pillars and roof totally off and replacing the roof with a thick canvas cover or awning? Yes, a convertible bus. . .
TheRollingBones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 05:26 PM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
TheRollingBones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 61
Something like this but on a Bus. . .
TheRollingBones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 05:27 PM   #17
Bus Nut
 
Joe45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 400
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frogpondfoug View Post
Raise it in center on Windows, you won't regret it



Not sure what you mean.
Please clarify.
Joe45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 06:53 PM   #18
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 310
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird, Collins
Chassis: G30 Bluebird Microbird, E350 Shuttle Bus
Engine: 1995 Chevrolet 350, 1992 Ford 460
Iím about 3/4 done with a clerestory roof addition. Itís 19í long, 4í wide, 16Ē tall. Itís all aluminum epoxy glued and riveted together. Hopefully in a few days Iíll be ready to coat it with Liquid Roof EPDM roof coating.
I built the walls on saw horses then assembled the rest on the roof. After climbing up the ladder onto the roof so many times it would be nice to build the entire thing on saw horses then lift it into place with a forklift or hoist of some kind.
I have a big 50Ē x36Ē aluminum boat hatch that Iíd love to have on top but hesitate to cut a hole in my new roof. Now would be the time to add it before the roof coating.
I sure hope this Liquid Roof stuff works like advertised as thereís hundreds of rivets that will leak. Thereís G Flex epoxy by West systems for sealing rivets. Heat the rivet with a hot air gun or torch then drop on the epoxy and it sucks into the rivet. Is there an easier less expensive way to seal rivets??
Or I could tape over all the riveted seams with roof tape then apply the coating. This sounds better. Thanks.
Doktari is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 07:54 PM   #19
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
FYI
LEXAN is a brand name for poly-carbonate sheet. Plexiglas is acrylic. Both can be drilled. Plexi is much more brittle than Lexan and will snap when bent, and can crack easily. Lexan on the other hand, 1/4" will stop a 22 bullet. Can be bent and formed unlike plexi. Lexan was required in our race cars as windshield, plexi was forbidden, because the Lexan will stop a bumper coming through, plexi won't. If you get a crack in plexi, the way to stop it from spreading is to drill a 1/8" hole at each end of the crack.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2019, 09:29 PM   #20
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 2,943
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
FYI
LEXAN is a brand name for poly-carbonate sheet. Plexiglas is acrylic. Both can be drilled. Plexi is much more brittle than Lexan and will snap when bent, and can crack easily. Lexan on the other hand, 1/4" will stop a 22 bullet. Can be bent and formed unlike plexi. Lexan was required in our race cars as windshield, plexi was forbidden, because the Lexan will stop a bumper coming through, plexi won't. If you get a crack in plexi, the way to stop it from spreading is to drill a 1/8" hole at each end of the crack.
You can bend plexi with a heat gun and patience. I've put right angle bends in it with a sheet metal break, although it's easier to cut two pieces and glue them.
__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×