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Old 02-27-2020, 01:18 PM   #1
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Rust Remover

Just a few spots left around bolts so
intend to use wire brush and rust remover. Can someone suggest the best rust remover I should use.
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Old 02-27-2020, 01:49 PM   #2
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Just a few spots left around bolts so
intend to use wire brush and rust remover. Can someone suggest the best rust remover I should use.
Use mechanical means to remove rust.

wirebrush.png



Then use a solvent to convert sparse, surface rust. If its flaky at all or deeper than a millimeter, you're just covering it up by spraying over it.


This was a major pain in my behind when I did the floor (and ceiling), but combined with rustoleum primer solved the problem.
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:52 PM   #3
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If you want the BEST rust converter-

The gallon, NOT the spray can!
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Old 02-27-2020, 06:53 PM   #4
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POR-15 is also a good product.
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Old 02-27-2020, 10:10 PM   #5
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Of course, there is also Ospho. It was mentioned earlier ... but needs to be emphasized ...


Remove as much of the rust as possible by mechanical means FIRST, then apply converters, primer, and paint.
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Old 02-28-2020, 08:03 AM   #6
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remove/convert/protect

wire brushes, flap wheels, grind or sand off as much as you can remove the rust. Some sort of sand blasting, sand, baking soda, glass beads, silicon carbide, walnut shells, etc. large bad bits with holes, consider cutting out panel and replacing the metal.

red rust is Iron III oxide, rust converters, change the rust to Iron II oxide. the key chemical in this is Phosphoric acid. POR 15 the rustoleum converters and stuff like that seem to all have phosphoric acid in them.


Naval jelly, an old time rust remover/converter is something I dont see mentioned here very often. there are hundreds of ways to get rid of rust.

just covering it up is probably the worst idea....

then after the metal is "clean" a good coat of paint is a good idea, I think some sort of zinc spray first, then paint and after that I would go through the trouble of some sort of anode/cathode protection system- again, something I have rarely seen written about here on the message boards.

I am also an advocate of using ground wires, I do not use the chassis as a ground. Making the entire bus part of an electrical circuit is not a good idea in terms of rust, I also do not thing it is a good idea in terms of keeping electrical circuits working well. It is more work.

Using equipment grounds for the body/chassis for 120v/240v wiring is to be considered.

I also have these rubber things that drag the ground, the idea is that the little wires in the rubber strips help to bleed static electricity off the skin of the bus back to ground. The idea is to help keep the metal from becoming part of an electrical circuit that promotes rust.

william
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Old 02-28-2020, 08:08 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
wire brushes, flap wheels, grind or sand off as much as you can remove the rust. Some sort of sand blasting, sand, baking soda, glass beads, silicon carbide, walnut shells, etc. large bad bits with holes, consider cutting out panel and replacing the metal.

red rust is Iron III oxide, rust converters, change the rust to Iron II oxide. the key chemical in this is Phosphoric acid. POR 15 the rustoleum converters and stuff like that seem to all have phosphoric acid in them.


Naval jelly, an old time rust remover/converter is something I dont see mentioned here very often. there are hundreds of ways to get rid of rust.

just covering it up is probably the worst idea....

then after the metal is "clean" a good coat of paint is a good idea, I think some sort of zinc spray first, then paint and after that I would go through the trouble of some sort of anode/cathode protection system- again, something I have rarely seen written about here on the message boards.

I am also an advocate of using ground wires, I do not use the chassis as a ground. Making the entire bus part of an electrical circuit is not a good idea in terms of rust, I also do not thing it is a good idea in terms of keeping electrical circuits working well. It is more work.

Using equipment grounds for the body/chassis for 120v/240v wiring is to be considered.

I also have these rubber things that drag the ground, the idea is that the little wires in the rubber strips help to bleed static electricity off the skin of the bus back to ground. The idea is to help keep the metal from becoming part of an electrical circuit that promotes rust.

william
Rust reformer is tannic acid based.
https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/blog/compa...st-converters/
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