Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-01-2019, 06:44 PM   #1
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 5
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 906 Mercedes 6.4l turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 24 passenger
Securing the doors and hatches

Iíll be starting on my 2006 Thomas Freightliner conversion and was hoping for enlightenment on the best tools and tactics for securing the doors and hatches. I am doing a very light touch conversion, and want to keep the doors and hatches original as possible. But there is not a single lock to be found.

I assume there is a good place to buy locking latches for the battery and storage hatches, the wheelchair lift and emergency exit door? Links?

I believe I could secure the main bi-fold door with a swing bar and padlock? Is there a more straightforward solution?

It makes perfect sense that it isnít lockable. They used to live in a motor pool surrounded by chain link and concertina wire, and had nothing on board worth stealing other than the bus itself. If the doors and hatches could lock, it would probably be a nightmare for motor pool staff when drivers lost the keys.

However, I need to be able to lock up. Any guidance welcome.
DaddyMonkeyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2019, 07:21 PM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 612
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Try these folks. They've got a good selection and variety of paddle handle lockable latches:
https://www.mcmaster.com/flush-mount-latches
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2019, 08:01 PM   #3
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190204_170514.jpg (53.0 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg 20190204_170523 (1).jpg (54.8 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg 20190204_170533 (2).jpg (61.8 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg 20190204_170554.jpg (54.4 KB, 33 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2019, 11:24 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.
I saw someone used this same deadbolt on the front split door and it worked fine. It's what I'm planning to use when the time comes.
indigo_k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 03:20 AM   #5
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 5
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 906 Mercedes 6.4l turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 24 passenger
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.

This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
DaddyMonkeyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 08:01 AM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
you would use a hole saw of the correct size to fit the lock cylinder - hole saws are a bit pricey, but the alternative is drilling a bunch of small holes, then a lot of filing to make the cylinder fit properly
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 10:14 AM   #7
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
The hole is made with an appropriate sized hole saw.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg holesaw.jpg (20.4 KB, 12 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2019, 08:06 AM   #8
Skoolie
 
Ciscokid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 128
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Me
Chassis: 2001 IC
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 72
The almighty Hole Dozer. These things will rip your arms off when you get into the larger ones if your not careful. I used a six inch recently and it almost got away from me. Glad I ate my Wheaties that day.
Ciscokid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 12:41 PM   #9
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 5
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 906 Mercedes 6.4l turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 24 passenger
I have owned a set of hole saws for aeons, but have never used them on metal. Clearly it can be done, but do you just let it rip or use a little drill oil? Carpentry is old hat to me, metal is a whole new world.
DaddyMonkeyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 01:01 PM   #10
Bus Crazy
 
plfking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,038
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
I have owned a set of hole saws for aeons, but have never used them on metal. Clearly it can be done, but do you just let it rip or use a little drill oil? Carpentry is old hat to me, metal is a whole new world.
Oil will help, but slow, steady, and level wins the race. The bits 'grab' because the cutting edge has tilted in the work, and is cutting deeper on one side than the other. Over the years, I've broken the handles off 3 different 1/2" drills by going faster than I should have.
__________________
Don

The Busted Flush
plfking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 01:11 PM   #11
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,299
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking View Post
Oil will help, but slow, steady, and level wins the race. The bits 'grab' because the cutting edge has tilted in the work, and is cutting deeper on one side than the other. Over the years, I've broken the handles off 3 different 1/2" drills by going faster than I should have.
I found a "cutting and drilling lube" at NAPA that is water based and doesn't leave the mess that machine oil does. Works well and is handy in a regular spray bottle.

PLFking, What is your secret? I would rather break handles than have the drill try and rip my right arm off Where you break a handle I wind up with a sprained wrist instead.....
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 01:37 PM   #12
Bus Nut
 
ermracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Unity, NH
Posts: 433
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466E (195hp, 520tq)
Rated Cap: 29,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by indigo_k View Post
I saw someone used this same deadbolt on the front split door and it worked fine. It's what I'm planning to use when the time comes.
We put a simple deadbolt on the back door like this:




For the wheelchair door we used a lock like this:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sour...57599560638180

We also used the deadbolt like o1marc posted on the front door, but don't have any closeup pictures of it.
__________________
Dave
ermracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 01:42 PM   #13
Bus Nut
 
tugboater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 279
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32í
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post

I believe I could secure the main bi-fold door with a swing bar and padlock? Is there a more straightforward solution?
I'm planning on drilling a hole on the lever & keep on the inside of each emergency exit. A carabiner will go in each of those.

For the front door I'll use this on the outside:

https://www.masterlock.com/personal-...oduct/M736XKAD

On the inside (when we're living in the bus), I'll just use an old fashion bar that sits in a cradle.
__________________
One...slow...step...at a time.
tugboater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 01:46 PM   #14
Bus Nut
 
ermracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Unity, NH
Posts: 433
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466E (195hp, 520tq)
Rated Cap: 29,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboater View Post
I'm planning on drilling a hole on the lever & keep on the inside of each emergency exit. A carabiner will go in each of those.

For the front door I'll use this on the outside:

https://www.masterlock.com/personal-...oduct/M736XKAD

On the inside (when we're living in the bus), I'll just use an old fashion bar that sits in a cradle.
The problem we saw with the padlock solution is that someone could lock it from the outside while we are inside. The deadbolts can be locked and unlocked from the inside (levers) or outside (keys) so we will never be locked in. The hasp lock we have on the wheelchair door is only on the outside since we can't exit through that door anyway, since the ramp is still in place.
__________________
Dave
ermracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 02:00 PM   #15
Bus Crazy
 
plfking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,038
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post

PLFking, What is your secret? I would rather break handles than have the drill try and rip my right arm off Where you break a handle I wind up with a sprained wrist instead.....
You're the one with the valuable secret. I'd rather sprain my wrist than have to buy another drill.
__________________
Don

The Busted Flush
plfking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 02:34 PM   #16
Bus Nut
 
tugboater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 279
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32í
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermracing View Post
The problem we saw with the padlock solution is that someone could lock it from the outside while we are inside. The deadbolts can be locked and unlocked from the inside (levers) or outside (keys) so we will never be locked in. The hasp lock we have on the wheelchair door is only on the outside since we can't exit through that door anyway, since the ramp is still in place.


I thought of the lock while inside scenario, but figured the chances of that are slim & if it happens Iíll walk out the e door and cut it.
__________________
One...slow...step...at a time.
tugboater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 06:00 PM   #17
Bus Crazy
 
HazMatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 1,997
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
I went this route. While prepping and loading to leave NH, I installed a latch post safety hasp on the swing-out front doors. Not pretty, but it kept undesirables out.
Well, except for me.
I had the key...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermracing View Post
The problem we saw with the padlock solution is that someone could lock it from the outside while we are inside. The deadbolts can be locked and unlocked from the inside (levers) or outside (keys) so we will never be locked in. The hasp lock we have on the wheelchair door is only on the outside since we can't exit through that door anyway, since the ramp is still in place.
Point being, when not otherwise locked shut, I lock the hasp in the open position.
Doubly beneficial: no prankster can lock me in, and I am SO much less likely to misplace the lock!
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
HazMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2019, 05:08 PM   #18
Bus Nut
 
PatrickBaptist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Johnson City TN
Posts: 401
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC/AMTRANS RE
Engine: T444E 7.3 w/ MD3060
Rated Cap: 36000lbs / 78pass / 39'
Using pad locks is a bad idea, they only help keep honest people honest. They are far to easy to defeat.
Not to mention it looks horrible.
I too am looking for a good solution to locking the main door.
PatrickBaptist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2019, 05:14 PM   #19
Bus Crazy
 
HazMatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 1,997
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
I am looking for that less-ghetto-looking solution, as well.
But in the meanwhile, I guess it's done well enough to keep all of the local honest tweaks on their side of the bulkheads...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
HazMatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2019, 06:51 AM   #20
Skoolie
 
Ciscokid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 128
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Me
Chassis: 2001 IC
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 72
The pad lock is just used to keep the intruder busy for a few minutes while the wife and I fight over who gets to shoot the thief.
Ciscokid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×