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02-22-2018, 01:23 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: AmTran IS3009
Engine: Cummings DT466
Rated Cap: 27
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Side walls in 1999 International
1999 International Amtran Model IS3009.
In an attempt to remove the interior side panels under the windows, I have removed all visible screws (lucky for me, my bus has screws throughout and not rivits). There is a small portion of the top of the panels that is tucked under the lower window trim. When I pulled down on the panel, it didn’t budge. Any suggestions appreciated.
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02-22-2018, 01:38 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 175
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International FE
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84 passengers
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You may need to pry up that top panel slightly and see if that will help you pull the wall panel down. There may be some caulk or adhesive at the top of the wall panel as well. Just start from the bottom and work your way up the sides with a paint scraper or something similar to make sure there is not adhesive or caulk all the way around the panel.
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02-22-2018, 02:41 PM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: PA>OR
Posts: 7
Year: 2003
Chassis: International
Engine: T444 7.3 V8 Turbo Diesel
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you have to remove windows to completely remove interior side walls because of the lip that curls over the window sill area, I watched a video of a guy that removed windows to get the walls totally off. i used a cut off wheel on a hand grinder. cardboard off your windows because sparks will FLY and could crack windows (didnt happen to me) or etch little divots into glass (did happen to mine) hope this helps oh and its most likely galvanized steel and is toxic when grinding so get a good resp. mask!
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02-22-2018, 03:02 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: AmTran IS3009
Engine: Cummings DT466
Rated Cap: 27
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@stavilove... thank you. just reading correctly... technically, i have to remove the windows because that galvanized steel wall has a lip at the top that was most likely mounted before the windows were installed therefore in reversing the process, i have to remove the windows to get to that lip. furthering, are you saying you didn't remove the windows and just used an angle grinder and grinded off the walls OR you did remove your windows and then still had to use the angle grinder? thank you for your information.
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02-22-2018, 03:04 PM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: AmTran IS3009
Engine: Cummings DT466
Rated Cap: 27
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@stavilove... thank you. just reading correctly... technically, i have to remove the windows because that galvanized steel wall has a lip at the top that was most likely mounted before the windows were installed therefore in reversing the process, i have to remove the windows to get to that lip. furthering, are you saying you didn't remove the windows and just used an angle grinder and grinded off the walls OR you did remove your windows and then still had to use the angle grinder? thank you for your information.
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02-22-2018, 04:10 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Construction in this area varies.
On my Thomas, the walls go under a steel piece that is under the lower edge of the window frame. I took one out to check.
So on my bus removing the windows doesn't help.
I did find that grabbing the remaining wall with locking pliers lets you tear the remaining wall and it tears neatly about 1/4" below the windows. What remains won't get in the way so it can be left there.
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02-22-2018, 04:46 PM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lebanon Indiana
Posts: 8
Year: 2000
Coachwork: AmTran FE
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 72
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I have the same bus, the side panels will slide down it just may take a little force.
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02-22-2018, 07:07 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elarryland
I have the same bus, the side panels will slide down it just may take a little force.
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If you were replying to me, I'll try that.
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02-22-2018, 07:43 PM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lebanon Indiana
Posts: 8
Year: 2000
Coachwork: AmTran FE
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
If you were replying to me, I'll try that.
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Sorry Twigg, I was referring to the original post
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02-22-2018, 07:48 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elarryland
Sorry Twigg, I was referring to the original post
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I'll try anyway
Tearing them off is fine, but pulling them out would suit my tidy mind.
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02-22-2018, 08:03 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ohio
Posts: 30
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 71
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i am about to do the same on a 2000 Thomas , stood and looked at for a few minutes but it was already quitting time and that was a new part of the project, for another day...
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02-22-2018, 09:37 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyusandabus
1999 International Amtran Model IS3009.
In an attempt to remove the interior side panels under the windows, I have removed all visible screws (lucky for me, my bus has screws throughout and not rivits). There is a small portion of the top of the panels that is tucked under the lower window trim. When I pulled down on the panel, it didn’t budge. Any suggestions appreciated.
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You aren't alone. The previous owners of Mobi ripped the wall off several inches below the window and gave up and sold it. Now I know why they were so frickin happy I bought it!!!!!
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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02-22-2018, 10:11 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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That's a common problem on certain models of buses.
To make a long story short past conversation on these panels have determined it is easiest to cut them off, but leave a small skirt that can later be bent so the ragged edge goes into the wall to be later burried in insulation. Some do it that way to leave the finished look on the frame at the base of the window. Others cut the panels off short and leave a ragged sharp edge.
As you build the bus out that window ledge will likely be covered by something eventually. It all works out.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-23-2018, 08:12 AM
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#14
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: PA>OR
Posts: 7
Year: 2003
Chassis: International
Engine: T444 7.3 V8 Turbo Diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyusandabus
@stavilove... thank you. just reading correctly... technically, i have to remove the windows because that galvanized steel wall has a lip at the top that was most likely mounted before the windows were installed therefore in reversing the process, i have to remove the windows to get to that lip. furthering, are you saying you didn't remove the windows and just used an angle grinder and grinded off the walls OR you did remove your windows and then still had to use the angle grinder? thank you for your information.
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Yup yup yup and I did not remove windows, just used grinder to cut thru the sheet metal to release walls. The guys below might be right in that different models have diff construction and u may not need to cut metal, and need to just yank on it.
__________________
Love & Gratitude
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02-23-2018, 09:26 AM
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#15
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: AmTran IS3009
Engine: Cummings DT466
Rated Cap: 27
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thanks to all who responded. it's gonna be a balmy 45 degrees today, so it's on my list of things to tackle. i'll send an update of how it all worked out.
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02-25-2018, 04:12 PM
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#16
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 8
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000 RE
Engine: t444e
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I have a 99 international amtran re3000 bus. I am in the process of removing my wall skins, and found that some of them have a rivet or two under the lip from the windows. My plan was to remove and re-seal my windows anyway, but it's been too cold and wet. So I haven't made it that far. Good luck!
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02-26-2018, 06:08 PM
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#17
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: AmTran IS3009
Engine: Cummings DT466
Rated Cap: 27
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Took care of the side walls today. After removing all of the screws (I’m lucky enough to have screws instead of rivets), I used an angle grinder with a cutoff disk. I used the bottom window trim as a guide to cut a straight line. I used the safety guide thing on the grinder to keep an equal distance from the window. I scored the metal instead of cutting through it (similar to scoring a piece of drywall and snapping it). Once I had a nice clean score line across the entire length of the panel, I bent the panel up (and down and up and down and up and down...). Eventually, the panel snapped off with a nice clean (and sharp) edge. I shot some GoPro time lapse footage and will try to post that here.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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02-26-2018, 06:57 PM
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#18
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Columbus, In
Posts: 3
Year: 1999
Engine: DT466E AmTram
Rated Cap: 35ft
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Hello I have a 1999 AmTram DT466 also and I'm in Westport, In. Bought mine in an online auction from a high school in Tenn. got lucky it only has around 100k miles on it. I have stripped off all the sheet metal from the ceiling and insulation. Now im at the walls and was wondering the samething about windows. I'm going to cut the top and raise it 20".
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02-26-2018, 10:04 PM
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#19
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 22
Year: 1999
Coachwork: International
Chassis: AmTran IS3009
Engine: Cummings DT466
Rated Cap: 27
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I started by removing all the screws from the rear panel (overlapping the others) and tried to pry and pull down with no avail. The score/bend method turned out great and I’m gonna be putting trim/walls over the sharp edges eventually.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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03-02-2018, 07:39 PM
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#20
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ohio
Posts: 30
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 71
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what I found behind my wall skins
this is the view behind my wall skins , really glad that i decided to look.
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