Solar Power Configuration/Install

[jazty]

I'll also mention that if you have a multimeter that can measure amps you can calculate the watts by using the formula [amps * volts = watts]

For instance, if you measured a 5 amp draw from a light bulb running at 12 volts then that bulb is a 60 watt bulb.

Now, a 60 watt bulb running at 120 volts is pulling 0.5 amps (watts / volts = amps)

All of this applies to DC and AC current.

[rjnye79]

Originally Posted by AlleyCat67

Unless your AC needs are very small I would not recommend that. But then again your design did only have a 1000 watt inverter.....

That being said, a standard orange extension cord is not rated for more than 15 amps. I believe you can get cords rated for 20 amps but they're gonna cost more, plus they will only connect to a 20 amp outlet. Anything bigger than that and you're getting into 240 volt or RV cord size.

My AC design is for a full 50 amp RV service, the cord for which was well over $100 by itself because it's 25 feet long with 6/3 hot/neutral and 8/1 ground conductors.

You might want to rethink the inverter size, that 1000 watts is only gonna give you a little over 8 amps. You're not gonna be able to run a microwave or heater off of that. I'd at least double that to 2000. I ran a 2500 watt inverter in my truck when I was an OTR driver (fridge, microwave, laptop and printer), and size your battery bank and solar array accordingly.

As with anything, YMMV.

Indeed, we are not planning to have a very robust assortment of appliances. Phone charging, laptop charging, lights, fans, an occasional vacuum or blender... our fridge and water pump are DC draws. Most wattage suckers (crock pot, toaster oven, etc.) will only be used when on shore power.

[TAOLIK]

Question about Solar Panels. Do any of us have any opinion on the Renogy Panels? A little more than $1/watt. but I'm drawn to the free shipping.

Originally Posted by AlleyCat67

Taolik I'll tell you the same thing..... 1000 watts will not run a lot of things. You'll find that the wattage on a lot of appliances is more than you realize.

Off Grid System Solar Sizing Calculator

Alleycat, I think we had a misunderstanding between us. I agree that there are many appliances that take large loads. But for regular usage I don't think it's necessary to run a 2500 watt inverter, seems more like a special occasion inverter to me.

Cool link, thanks for sharing. My only critique is that 4 slots for DC loads seems a little lacking, I want as much as possible running off dc. Back to the spreadsheets!

[jazty]

Originally Posted by TAOLIK

Alleycat, I think we had a misunderstanding between us. I agree that there are many appliances that take large loads. But for regular usage I don't think it's necessary to run a 2500 watt inverter, seems more like a special occasion inverter to me.

While I'm on this exhilarating kick about watts, amps and volts I'd like to add that a 1000 watt inverter equates to 8.3 amps @120 volts.

Household branches are at least 15 amps. Many these days are even 20 amp. Household appliances are built to play within that range. I'd at least get an inverter that can supply 15 amps @120 volts (1800 watts).

[AlleyCat67]

Originally Posted by TAOLIK

Alleycat, I think we had a misunderstanding between us. I agree that there are many appliances that take large loads. But for regular usage I don't think it's necessary to run a 2500 watt inverter, seems more like a special occasion inverter to me.

Well, every situation is different.... when I drove a truck I ran a 2500 watt inverter on the truck to power fridge, microwave, laptop and printer.... the laptop ran all the time when I was parked, and when the microwave and fridge were going at the same time on top of that it was pulling about 1800 watts which was at the top of the continuous power rating. Best thing I can say there is tally all your AC loads that will run off it and how much you'll be using them, that will tell you how big an inverter you need. 1000 watts seems small to me but I'm basing that off my trucking experience I shared before.

Originally Posted by TAOLIK

Cool link, thanks for sharing. My only critique is that 4 slots for DC loads seems a little lacking, I want as much as possible running off dc. Back to the spreadsheets!

Agreed, but that's the way they designed it..... what you could do is use your spreadsheet for tallying up all the DC loads, then just put the total in the calculator, that way only 1 line needed.

[TAOLIK]

Originally Posted by jazty

While I'm on this exhilarating kick about watts, amps and volts I'd like to add that a 1000 watt inverter equates to 8.3 amps @120 volts.

Household branches are at least 15 amps. Many these days are even 20 amp. Household appliances are built to play within that range. I'd at least get an inverter that can supply 15 amps @120 volts (1800 watts).

Thank you Jazty,

I appreciate your watt/amp/volt kick and your logic on the matter, it makes much sense. Since I already bought a 1000watt magnum inverter last year, I will continue to defend my purchase. But I will for sure have a 2000 watt Inverter for the bigger appliances.

Originally Posted by AlleyCat67

Well, every situation is different.... when I drove a truck I ran a 2500 watt inverter on the truck to power fridge, microwave, laptop and printer.... the laptop ran all the time when I was parked, and when the microwave and fridge were going at the same time on top of that it was pulling about 1800 watts which was at the top of the continuous power rating. Best thing I can say there is tally all your AC loads that will run off it and how much you'll be using them, that will tell you how big an inverter you need. 1000 watts seems small to me but I'm basing that off my trucking experience I shared before.

Thank you for sharing your experience. I hope to run my laptop, stereo, and tv off dc power and plan to exclude the microwave. The Killawatt reports that my fridge (chest freezer conversion) uses about 200 watts a day. I am sure I'll still need a sizeable battery bank, but I still think it's realistic to keep most of my needs to my 1000 watt inverter. I suppose the only person who this really matters for is myself though, I digress.

[AlleyCat67]

Originally Posted by TAOLIK

I am sure I'll still need a sizeable battery bank, but I still think it's realistic to keep most of my needs to my 1000 watt inverter. I suppose the only person who this really matters for is myself though, I digress.

Yep, that about sums it up. If you can make a 1000 watt inverter work out to supply all your loads, then by all means go for it. You don't have to satisfy anyone but yourself.

[86Prevost]

Hello from Canada. Having some issues on how to run my solar setup on my 86 prevost le mirage xl. Can anyone offer some guidance?

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[Gypsy Clipper]

Did you get an answer?

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[86Prevost]

Originally Posted by Gypsy Clipper

Did you get an answer?

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Figured it out myself and with some help from google

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[joeblack5]

great job 86PV.. pun intended.. The
PreVost that is.
If it is not hard to do then raise your panels about inch. They will cool better with some airflow and that will increase the efficiency and life .
It also will cool your roof better.

If you put your solar panels in series the it is best to keep them all in the same plane. If in parallel it does not matter.
the reasoning is that when the panels are in series it works like a chain with the weakest link. You are following the curved roof line of the bus.. depending where the sun is one of the three will be best oriented to the sun and one will be worst. The best one will be dragged down to the level of the worst one when they are in series.
Google partial shading solar panels.

if in the solar panels are in parallel it does not matter. The best will be just the best and the worst will be just the worst.

Can not see your breaker box but if you are working above 48 volt you should use DC rated breakers. Below 48 volt some square D breakers are UL listed for DC, ( if UL listing is important to you)

later J

[Iceni John]

You may want to rethink the location of your inverter. Unless you have AGMs, it's prudent to separate delicate electronics from anything that produces acid fumes and flammable gas. It's generally recommended to keep batteries in a well-ventilated and non-flammable compartment, and all associated electronica such as inverters and charge controllers close to the batteries but physically separate from them.

John

[86Prevost]

I can move the inverter to the shelf above and put a small blower from the engine bay into the mechanical room for ventilation. Think that would suffice?

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[Iceni John]

Originally Posted by 86Prevost

I can move the inverter to the shelf above and put a small blower from the engine bay into the mechanical room for ventilation. Think that would suffice?

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It will help, somewhat. Separate is always best for batteries and electronics. And keep the cables neat and tidy - too many Bad Things have happened because of messy wiring!

John

[golfersmurf57]

I'm seeing 4 solar panels is that enough and what can you run produce with those?

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