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09-15-2018, 09:44 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Step by Step Plans, Help
Hey guys, our bus is arriving in three days, so I'm trying to have a plan in order to hit the ground running. I'm going to post my detailed plan and with ideas for materials/appliances, please let me know if anything seems wrong or if there's more to be elaborated on. If you've had better luck on anything or have experiences to share, please comment!! I've never done anything like this, so I'm gonna be stupid detailed hahaThank you
1. Remove all the seats, sell for scrap metal (Use Impact Driver?) a. Grind/Remove seat brackets b. Remove rubber flooring in the stairwell and entire bus c. Remove heat/ducts inside and under bus d. Pull up any plywood with a crow bar e. Remove interior metal between the windows and chair rail (But DON'T REMOVE CHAIR RAIL f. Remove wheel well covers and ceiling panels g. Tear out fiberglass insulation h. Make sure all the rivets are out and clean out 2. Use grinder to get rid of surface rust a. Wire Brust the Whole floor b. Powerwash c. Use a degreaser (Any brand recs?) and thoroughly rinse d. Use a rust-converter (Corroseal) e. Patch any tiny holes (check for leaks during rain) with 3M 5200 Sealant f. Paint over with Epoxy Paint to seal over the rust converter and wait 24 hours 3. Cut/drill holes for plumbing/electric, oh my a. I'm still confused about this part. We'll be using a compost toilet of some sort on top of the wheel well, 1 sink, 1 small shower. If anyone has suggestions for electric set up for off-grid (minimal A/C and fridge use)? b. Build a box to contain the generator/batteries c. Run wires and outlets? d. Mount a main and sub panel e. Install Water Heater (Gravity fill/vent hose in the wall behind shower) f. Install Water Tanks (30 Gal Fresh and Grey Water) under bus g. Install 2 Propane Tanks (Where is recommended to put this?Driver side behind the wheel well?) h. Put in ventilation tube over wheel well 4. Replace Windows OR insulate and seal them? (I'm not converting any of the windows into walls, except for possibly the shower. Just blackout curtains haha) a. I figure RV windows are a bit too expensive to replace all 22 windows... b. What is recommended to put on the windows to keep out the sun or insulate the windows better? c. Caulk all the windows for leaks d. Replace one of the windows in front of the range with a fan 5. INSULATE the ceiling and walls a. Use Great Stuff expanding foam for walls. Put in slow to give time to expand and dry. Shave down. b. Put insulation boards into ceiling. 3/8" Foam Boards with foil face? c. Put up a frame for the wall material later. Wood between the windows? Furring Strips? d. Put Ceiling panels back in 6. Subfloor a. Install Radiant Heat Barrier (What kind of material is best for this? Paint on OR Foil?) b. Install insulation (Spray? Foam Boards?) c. Laydown Plywood/OSB (If using OSB leave gaps bc it expands 7. Tape Floorplans and cry (Use tape that comes up clean and easy)
8. Put in window A/C OR on the roof
9. Hope that the plumbing and electricity is all good, cover up wall insulation
10. Framing a. Make cardboard cut outs to practice b. Put up walls for the bathroom (If you mess up on the curve, use adhesive foam rubber strips to cover it?) c. Box over wheel wells with plywood and whatever material is safe for a tiny pellet stove. d. Create frame for bed, with about 2 1/2 feet storage underneath e. Various storage frames f. The awful attempt to make 2 pull-out sofas with storage underneath. g. Make kitchen counters, with a pull out L-shape counter h. Coat all the wood with stain/finish 11. Pray all the furniture is in the right spot. Put down flooring where there aren't any appliances a. What kind of flooring do you all recommend? 12. Put up tile OR corrogated metal in shower
13. Lighting! I'm thinking mostly long strings of LED lights and a few sconces. 14. Interior decoration and finishing?
15. Exterior a. Paint with insulating paint b. Install awning And hopefully be ready to set sail? I know there must be lots I missed. I appreciate any recs!
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09-18-2018, 01:05 PM
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#2
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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We got our bus, 2003 Bluebird, 26.5'x7.5' interior space, CAT engine, and Allison transmission.
Jumped right in to get the seats out. One of us held the nuts under the bus while the other turned them inside BUT they were too rusted. WD40 didn't help. Some snapped off (lucky) but others are just too stuck for hand tools. I think we'll have to get an angle grinder or an air/impact tool (which we unfortunately don't have).
Any suggestions for stuck seats?
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09-18-2018, 07:34 PM
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#3
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 76
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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I'm still new to all this, but just something I caught and wanted to address.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FabulousFox
3. Cut/drill holes for plumbing/electric, oh my
c. Run wires and outlets?
...
5. INSULATE the ceiling and walls
...
9. Hope that the plumbing and electricity is all good, cover up wall insulation
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You say you're thinking about running your electric wires, spray insulate, and then hope that it all works. Might be obvious, but I'd triple-check that electric works before spraying insulation because I imagine it'd be hell to rewire wires that are already sprayed down if something is wrong.
I think what I'd do is insulate and then run wires, that way in case something is wrong it's easier to troubleshoot. If that's a big no-no, I'd love for someone more knowledgeable to educate me.
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09-18-2018, 08:26 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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If the plan calls for insulation over wiring...run some kind of conduit before you spray. Metal, plastic, pvc, whatever. Then you an at least pull as needed.
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09-18-2018, 08:54 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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i'm a firm believer in On-Demand propane water heaters... I have no desire to keep a tank of hot water ready for when I desire to use it, in case I want to use it.
a 20# tank of propane will last me at least 3 months, and that's including a front load clothes washer, shower, and sink. but, I'm single
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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09-19-2018, 05:49 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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I'll second Tango on running some sort of conduit. I ran my DC lighting runs before I spray foamed. The lights work! However, the dimmers I originally bought need the negative/ground run back to the dimmer. Probably not happening at this point. Also, if I were to do it again, I'd put my ceiling up last.
__________________
Nick
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09-20-2018, 12:22 PM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiggins
I'm still new to all this, but just something I caught and wanted to address.
You say you're thinking about running your electric wires, spray insulate, and then hope that it all works. Might be obvious, but I'd triple-check that electric works before spraying insulation because I imagine it'd be hell to rewire wires that are already sprayed down if something is wrong.
I think what I'd do is insulate and then run wires, that way in case something is wrong it's easier to troubleshoot. If that's a big no-no, I'd love for someone more knowledgeable to educate me.
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VERY good point, I need even the 'obvious' pointed out haha It sounds like insulating and the running the wires is a good idea. Would the insulation not leave room for the wires, or would I just cut some of the insulation?
Thank you!
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09-20-2018, 12:23 PM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
If the plan calls for insulation over wiring...run some kind of conduit before you spray. Metal, plastic, pvc, whatever. Then you an at least pull as needed.
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Thank you! I'll be sure to do that. Do you suggest just doing the wiring after insulation? The plan is very flexible haha
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09-20-2018, 12:25 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania
i'm a firm believer in On-Demand propane water heaters... I have no desire to keep a tank of hot water ready for when I desire to use it, in case I want to use it.
a 20# tank of propane will last me at least 3 months, and that's including a front load clothes washer, shower, and sink. but, I'm single
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Good to know a 20 Gal will last that long! Thank you!
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09-20-2018, 12:27 PM
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#10
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty
I'll second Tango on running some sort of conduit. I ran my DC lighting runs before I spray foamed. The lights work! However, the dimmers I originally bought need the negative/ground run back to the dimmer. Probably not happening at this point. Also, if I were to do it again, I'd put my ceiling up last.
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Ceiling up last, that's a good idea, since I'll probably forget something last minute! We're gonna try to reuse the original metal panels.
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09-20-2018, 12:35 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Updated:
1. Remove all the seats, sell for scrap metal (Use Impact Driver?) a. Grind/Remove seat brackets b. Remove rubber flooring in the stairwell and entire bus c. Remove heat/ducts inside and under bus d. Pull up any plywood with a crow bar e. Remove interior metal between the windows and chair rail (But DON'T REMOVE CHAIR RAIL f. Remove wheel well covers and ceiling panels g. Tear out fiberglass insulation h. Make sure all the rivets are out and clean out 2. Use grinder to get rid of surface rust a. Wire Brust the Whole floor b. Powerwash c. Use a degreaser (Any brand recs?) and thoroughly rinse d. Use a rust-converter (Corroseal) e. Patch any tiny holes (check for leaks during rain) with 3M 5200 Sealant f. Paint over with Epoxy Paint to seal over the rust converter and wait 24 hours 3. Cut/drill holes for plumbing/electric, oh my a. I'm still confused about this part. We'll be using a compost toilet of some sort on top of the wheel well, 1 sink, 1 small shower. If anyone has suggestions for electric set up for off-grid (minimal A/C and fridge use)? b. Build a box to contain the generator/batteries c. Run wires and outlets? d. Mount a main and sub panel e. Install On-Demand Propane Water Heater (Gravity fill/vent hose in the wall behind shower) f. Install Water Tanks (30 Gal Fresh and Grey Water) under bus g. Install 2 Propane Tanks (Where is recommended to put this?Driver side behind the wheel well?) h. Put in ventilation tube over wheel well 4. Replace Windows OR insulate and seal them? a. Take out all the windows, Replace every other 2 windows with a sheetmetal wall. Get in any large pieces of furniture/wood in while windows are out. b. What is recommended to put on the windows to keep out the sun or insulate the windows better? c. Caulk all the windows for leaks d. Replace one of the windows in front of the range with a fan 5. INSULATE the ceiling and walls a. Put in a conduit for wires. Use Great Stuff expanding foam for walls. Put in slow to give time to expand and dry. Shave down. b. Put insulation boards into the ceiling. 3/8" Foam Boards with foil face? c. Put up a frame for the wall material later. Wood between the windows? Furring Strips? d. Put Ceiling panels back in 6. Subfloor a. Install Radiant Heat Barrier (What kind of material is best for this? Paint on OR Foil?) b. Install insulation (Spray? Foam Boards?) c. Laydown Plywood/OSB (If using OSB leave gaps bc it expands 7. Tape Floorplans and cry (Use tape that comes up clean and easy)
8. Put in window A/C OR on the roof
9. Hope that the plumbing and electricity is all good, cover up wall insulation
10. Framing a. Make cardboard cut-outs to practice. (If you mess up on the curve, use adhesive foam rubber strips to cover it?) b. Make a jack-in-the-box for toilet. c. Box over wheel wells with plywood and whatever material is safe for a tiny pellet stove. d. Create frame for bed, with about 2 1/2 feet storage underneath e. Various storage frames f. The awful attempt to make 2 pull-out sofas with storage underneath. g. Make kitchen counters, with a pull out L-shape counter h. Coat all the wood with stain/finish 11. Pray all the furniture is in the right spot. Put down flooring where there aren't any appliances a. What kind of flooring do you all recommend? 12. Lighting! I'm thinking mostly long strings of LED lights and a few sconces. 13. Put in a wire halo for shower curtain, install bathtub bucket
14. Interior decoration and finishing?
15. Exterior a. Paint with insulating paint b. Install awning And hopefully be ready to set sail? I know there must be lots I missed. I appreciate any recs![/QUOTE]
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09-20-2018, 12:40 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FabulousFox
Updated:
1. Remove all the seats, sell for scrap metal (Use Impact Driver?) a. Grind/Remove seat brackets b. Remove rubber flooring in the stairwell and entire bus c. Remove heat/ducts inside and under bus d. Pull up any plywood with a crow bar e. Remove interior metal between the windows and chair rail (But DON'T REMOVE CHAIR RAIL f. Remove wheel well covers and ceiling panels g. Tear out fiberglass insulation h. Make sure all the rivets are out and clean out 2. Use grinder to get rid of surface rust a. Wire Brust the Whole floor b. Powerwash c. Use a degreaser (Any brand recs?) and thoroughly rinse d. Use a rust-converter (Corroseal) e. Patch any tiny holes (check for leaks during rain) with 3M 5200 Sealant f. Paint over with Epoxy Paint to seal over the rust converter and wait 24 hours 3. Cut/drill holes for plumbing/electric, oh my a. I'm still confused about this part. We'll be using a compost toilet of some sort on top of the wheel well, 1 sink, 1 small shower. If anyone has suggestions for electric set up for off-grid (minimal A/C and fridge use)? b. Build a box to contain the generator/batteries c. Run wires and outlets? d. Mount a main and sub panel e. Install On-Demand Propane Water Heater (Gravity fill/vent hose in the wall behind shower) f. Install Water Tanks (30 Gal Fresh and Grey Water) under bus g. Install 2 Propane Tanks (Where is recommended to put this?Driver side behind the wheel well?) h. Put in ventilation tube over wheel well 4. Replace Windows OR insulate and seal them? a. Take out all the windows, Replace every other 2 windows with a sheetmetal wall. Get in any large pieces of furniture/wood in while windows are out. b. What is recommended to put on the windows to keep out the sun or insulate the windows better? c. Caulk all the windows for leaks d. Replace one of the windows in front of the range with a fan 5. INSULATE the ceiling and walls a. Put in a conduit for wires. Use Great Stuff expanding foam for walls. Put in slow to give time to expand and dry. Shave down. b. Put insulation boards into the ceiling. 3/8" Foam Boards with foil face? c. Put up a frame for the wall material later. Wood between the windows? Furring Strips? d. Put Ceiling panels back in 6. Subfloor a. Install Radiant Heat Barrier (What kind of material is best for this? Paint on OR Foil?) b. Install insulation (Spray? Foam Boards?) c. Laydown Plywood/OSB (If using OSB leave gaps bc it expands 7. Tape Floorplans and cry (Use tape that comes up clean and easy)
8. Put in window A/C OR on the roof
9. Hope that the plumbing and electricity is all good, cover up wall insulation
10. Framing a. Make cardboard cut-outs to practice. (If you mess up on the curve, use adhesive foam rubber strips to cover it?) b. Make a jack-in-the-box for toilet. c. Box over wheel wells with plywood and whatever material is safe for a tiny pellet stove. d. Create frame for bed, with about 2 1/2 feet storage underneath e. Various storage frames f. The awful attempt to make 2 pull-out sofas with storage underneath. g. Make kitchen counters, with a pull out L-shape counter h. Coat all the wood with stain/finish 11. Pray all the furniture is in the right spot. Put down flooring where there aren't any appliances a. What kind of flooring do you all recommend? 12. Lighting! I'm thinking mostly long strings of LED lights and a few sconces. 13. Put in a wire halo for shower curtain, install bathtub bucket
14. Interior decoration and finishing?
15. Exterior a. Paint with insulating paint b. Install awning And hopefully be ready to set sail? I know there must be lots I missed. I appreciate any recs!
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[/QUOTE]
All the above means nothing if you haven't got a good sound bus under you electrically and mechanically. A ton of work for nothing!
You need a dependable vehicle before you think converting at all, or are just making expensive scrap.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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09-20-2018, 03:46 PM
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#13
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 69
Year: 1992
Rated Cap: 35 kids
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You forgot the most important part.....Naming the Bus...
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09-20-2018, 05:57 PM
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#14
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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All the above means nothing if you haven't got a good sound bus under you electrically and mechanically. A ton of work for nothing!
You need a dependable vehicle before you think converting at all, or are just making expensive scrap.
John[/QUOTE]
We have our bus, a 2003 Bluebird with CAT engine and Allison transmission. She's right out of school district use, it was inspected well and we haven't found too much rust after beginning to pull up the plywood
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09-20-2018, 06:00 PM
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#15
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoolbus1
You forgot the most important part.....Naming the Bus...
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Very true haha So far her name is Bussica the Succubus~
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09-20-2018, 06:01 PM
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#16
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
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Some general questions for insulation and walls, if anyone has done these:
1. Is there any benefit to taking off the metal in the wall and replacing any insulation? Is it ok to just put insulation on top of the pre-existing metal wall up to the width of the chair rail and then put up a new wall?
2. Debating making walls out of windows by painting over the windows, caulking and gluing them shut, then using the same insulation and wall material over top of them. Is this better than taking the window out and replacing it with sheet metal?
3. Should I leave the plastic wheel well cover on for safety? Or just box over the metal part?
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09-20-2018, 06:29 PM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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Great Stuff has a max R-value of 4.2. I have 1" double-faced foam with an R-value of 6. Then there's https://www.insulation4less.com/Insu...aspx#fragment1.
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09-27-2018, 10:54 AM
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#18
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 22
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FabulousFox
Updated:
5. INSULATE the ceiling and walls
a. Put in a conduit for wires. Use Great Stuff expanding foam for walls. Put in slow to give time to expand and dry. Shave down.
d. Put Ceiling panels back in
b. Install insulation (Spray? Foam Boards?)
7. Tape Floorplans and cry (Use tape that comes up clean and easy)
8. Put in window A/C OR on the roof
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My ideas:
a. I wouldn't use the Great Stuff as the main wall insulation. It's just supposed to be a crack filler.
d. I personally wouldn't recommend re-using the metal ceiling panels, especially if you are putting the ceiling back up last. Research thermal bridging in skoolies.
b. I'll be using a two-part closed-cell spray foam on the walls and ceiling. Maybe even the floor. I'll probably be using Tigerfoam.com (Coupon Code: Save50). Does anyone else have a better/cheaper recommendation?
7. Don't cry, buddy, you can do this! Also, just leave the tape on the floor.
8. Have you researched RV rooftop A/C vs a mini-split? I'm going to be installing a mini-split in my bus.
Other: Are you going to be using any solar panels or a rooftop deck? If so, I'd put up the solar rack before installing the ceiling insulation, so you can access the attachment points to reinforce the rack.
Good Luck!
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09-27-2018, 11:30 AM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Great Stuff will eat metal and will never set fully in a closed compartment. Needs to be "closed cell foam" so that it does not hold moisture.
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09-27-2018, 11:40 AM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FabulousFox
Good to know a 20 Gal will last that long! Thank you!
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20# is not the same as 20 gallons. 20 gallons would be 84lbs, a 20# full weighs 4.7lbs.
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