STICKY windows

[olivemartini]

Hey all… I’ve been trying things for two days and NOTHING is working. The “sealant” on these windows is like chewing gum. I’ve tried paint thinner and acetone as well as elbow grease. I have wire brushes, a putty scraper, a box knife, etc.

No matter what I try, this stuff just sticks to everything. When I make the tiniest bit of progress, IT STICKS TO SOMETHING ELSE! There has got to be an easier way….????

[olivemartini]

I should also mention that there were no screws in any of the windows. This stuff was the only thing holding them in.

[musigenesis]

In an International, there are normally no screws holding the windows in place (except for the two screws with big washers on the inside of each rib which hold in each adjacent pair of windows, which I assume you had also). The windows are just press-fit at the factory without any kind of sealant, and when they inevitably start leaking, bus shops pull them out and seal them with whatever stuff they decide to use for this purpose. On my bus the windows had been pulled out and resealed numerous times, and they had at least three different types of sealant on them.

You just have to try and figure out what the stuff is and what solvent will work on it. I would also try mineral spirits and ZEP industrial degreaser. You also might want to consider just leaving it where it is.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

In an International, there are normally no screws holding the windows in place (except for the two screws with big washers on the inside of each rib which hold in each adjacent pair of windows, which I assume you had also). The windows are just press-fit at the factory without any kind of sealant, and when they inevitably start leaking, bus shops pull them out and seal them with whatever stuff they decide to use for this purpose. On my bus the windows had been pulled out and resealed numerous times, and they had at least three different types of sealant on them.

You just have to try and figure out what the stuff is and what solvent will work on it. I would also try mineral spirits and ZEP industrial degreaser. You also might want to consider just leaving it where it is.

Look at this video, apparantly the changed they method of securing the windows in the later models. They no longer use the big washer between windows method. Looks like 2005 was the change.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbPyMorrzC0

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Look at this video, apparantly the changed they method of securing the windows in the later models. They no longer use the big washer between windows method. Looks like 2005 was the change.

Huh. Yeah, looks like full-height brackets with 4 or 5 screws now.

[olivemartini]

I’m glad you know what I’m talking about �� it’s like melty tar that stretches like hot pizza cheese. I really considered leaving it alone and adding caulk/sealant to cover up just the gaps, but would that work for weather proofing? I don’t see why not, but my fam is telling me it all has to come off. There is nothing hardened on it, just squishy stick.

[olivemartini]

That is my exact bus! Thank you!

[o1marc]

That tar is non hardening, so it can be left there and some other sealer placed over it. Butyl tape is a good sealer for windows.

[DeMac]

We also have four screws and an aluminum plate holding the frames in place. The 13 y/o rubber tubing inside the old buytl is crumbling & breaking down. We felt it best to replace durring the demo & refub.

A ball of old black butyl is a great tool to remove more of the same. Like cleaning up Play-doh & warm gum. It sticks to itself.

Mineral spirits only thins the black, helps it transfer. Works, but slow. Lots of disposable rags, once they begin to smear, new rag.

Windex on my hands, before I start, makes for tackfree hands. Also, helps to remove the old seal from the aluminum frame.

I keep a scrap stick to wind up the glue strings, like cotton candy, as I pull the window free. A cart in front of each window saves my spine.



More about sealing & insulating above IC windows in my demo albulm.
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/membe...lbums2050.html

[o1marc]

I'm thinking a rag soaked in oil to rub the stuff off, it won't stick back where the oily rag was.

[olivemartini]

Turns out olive oil was my best bet. Didn’t necessarily help get it straight off the windows but helped keep it relatively clean and off my hands. Next question… since these were held in with only tar and no screws, how do I put them back!?

[musigenesis]

You don't still have those brackets that screw in between the windows?

[DeMac]

We used a butyl tape on the vertical sides & bottom contact points, of the AL window frame. 3/32"th X 1/2"w. Squeezed the frames into place by alternating the eight screws that hold the plates.

The top edge of our steel frame has (1-1/2"dia closed cell) backer rod inside the hollow steel frame, so we added 3/8"round butyl to the top edge, from the exterior. Manually pressed in/up. No leaks, so far. We may add Sika 221 if Im wrong, or just take one out and do it again. No long term testimony, here.


A gap is 3/8" gap is exposed,when the factory window is installed and touching both vertical supports, air passes over the top of the window.


small piece of backer rod, next to an installed window, to show the gap above the factory-installed window, note the light peering through.

***surprising side effect: remarkably quieter inside.

Bought our materials here:
https://www.midmichiganmetalsales.co...tyl-tape-roll/

[N5tavniec]

Originally Posted by DeMac

We used a butyl tape on the vertical sides & bottom contact points, of the AL window frame. 3/32"th X 1/2"w. Squeezed the frames into place by alternating the eight screws that hold the plates.

The top edge of our steel frame has (1-1/2"dia closed cell) backer rod inside the hollow steel frame, so we added 3/8"round butyl to the top edge, from the exterior. Manually pressed in/up. No leaks, so far. We may add Sika 221 if Im wrong, or just take one out and do it again. No long term testimony, here.


A gap is 3/8" gap is exposed,when the factory window is installed and touching both vertical supports, air passes over the top of the window.


small piece of backer rod, next to an installed window, to show the gap above the factory-installed window, note the light peering through.

***surprising side effect: remarkably quieter inside.

Bought our materials here:
https://www.midmichiganmetalsales.co...tyl-tape-roll/

How did this method hold up for you?

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by N5tavniec

How did this method hold up for you?

‐----------------------

Holding up well.



We use our bus as the farm workshop, so I'm inside of it everyday. Especially, if it's raining.

Adding the backer rod was the single most impactful change, made to the windows.

[Jamessmith0901]

Originally Posted by olivemartini

Hey all… I’ve been trying things for two days and NOTHING is working. The “sealant” on these windows is like chewing gum. I’ve tried paint thinner and acetone as well as elbow grease. I have wire brushes, a putty scraper, a box knife, etc.

No matter what I try, this stuff just sticks to everything. When I make the tiniest bit of progress, IT STICKS TO SOMETHING ELSE! There has got to be an easier way….????

Have you tried using a heat gun or a hair dryer to soften the sealant before scraping it off? Just be careful not to heat the window too much and cause damage. Additionally, you could try using a product specifically designed for removing sealant, such as a silicone sealant remover or a caulk softener.