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Old 08-11-2019, 10:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post



THANK YOU!!!


By the way, this goes on in addition to, and after, the rust converter, correct?
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Old 08-11-2019, 11:01 PM   #22
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Yes, it goes on after the Ospho has been scrubbed and rinsed off. Some people use a pressure washer; I used a garden hose and an old broom.

Rust converters are just phosphoric acid, which you need to wash away before you put the paint on your newly prepared surface.
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Old 08-11-2019, 11:24 PM   #23
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Yes, it goes on after the Ospho has been scrubbed and rinsed off. Some people use a pressure washer; I used a garden hose and an old broom.

Rust converters are just phoshoric acid, which you need to wash away before you put the paint on your newly prepared surface.



Awesome!


Thank you!
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Old 08-12-2019, 07:37 AM   #24
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THANK YOU!!!


By the way, this goes on in addition to, and after, the rust converter, correct?
Yeah, its just primer. IDK why they say its for rusty metal. I take care of that rust first and use this after its converted.
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Old 08-12-2019, 11:57 AM   #25
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Just went to a place in New Jersey (Fazzio's) that has umpteen million gallons of this stuff in stock. They also have tons of Ospho in stock, which is cool because I've been ordering it off Amazon - one order never arrived because the packaging opened, and a second order actually did arrive but the stuff was leaking into the box.

Anybody ever use SEM self-etching primer? I got some for repainting my windows and the stuff seems to adhere really well to metal (although of course I have no long-term data on it).
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Old 08-12-2019, 12:07 PM   #26
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Just went to a place in New Jersey (Fazzio's) that has umpteen million gallons of this stuff in stock. They also have tons of Ospho in stock, which is cool because I've been ordering it off Amazon - one order never arrived because the packaging opened, and a second order actually did arrive but the stuff was leaking into the box.

Anybody ever use SEM self-etching primer? I got some for repainting my windows and the stuff seems to adhere really well to metal (although of course I have no long-term data on it).
Never tried SEM but will be buying some soon.
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Old 05-23-2020, 05:12 AM   #27
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Iron Phosphate Converter, Automotive Grade Expoy Paint, and Rustoleum Top Coat

My floors were pretty rested because Thomas didn't do a good design or manufacturing job of sealing the window frames on my 2004 Thomas EF with RV style windows. They basically had just "I" shaped sections between the vertical fame members with lap joints over the Roof sheet metal. Thus giving ample water egress opportunity. I had to knock down all the old rust with a 6" angle grinder (combo flap disc and wire wheel) to prep everything. I left the galvanized areas that were still intact but sanded them. Covered it all with Iron Phosphate rust converter, removed the rust converter from the galvanized areas to prevent delaminating. The converter won't allow proper paint adhesion if it is inactivate on galvanized surfaces. Then I used some automotive grade epoxy primer. This comes with an activator so you have to work pretty quickly. I chose to mix it as directed and apply it with a roller and extension handle. This type of paint will stick to galvanized metal and pretty much any other clean and prepped surface. The advantage is that it is extremely durable. 2 coats of this was applied and then 2 coats of Rustoleum Oil Based Enamel paint was applied with roller was well. I used paint brushes in the corners and base of the walls. This is an amazing finish. Automotive epoxy paint was about $147 for 2 gallons and I used about 1.5 gallons of Rustolem Gloss white oil based enamel. The epoxy paint is pretty thin so it was able to flow into all the crevices. Don't spray it because it would be a fire hazard if the surface isn't proper ventilated. I'm very satisfied with the finish and how durable it is. I will be putting down a vapor barrier and insulation. The holes from the seat mounting points will be covered with Urethane type automotive type seam sealant. It can be applied under or over paint. As long as the surfaces are clean and prepped with adhesion promoter. Then I'll apply rubberized undercoating from the bottom exterior to match the rust proofing undercoating from the factory.
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Old 05-23-2020, 05:18 AM   #28
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Iron Phosphate Converter, Automotive Grade Expoy Paint, and Rustoleum Top Coat

My floors were pretty rested because Thomas didn't do a good design or manufacturing job of sealing the window frames on my 2004 Thomas EF with RV style windows. They basically had just "I" shaped sections between the vertical fame members with lap joints over the Roof sheet metal. Thus giving ample water egress opportunity. I had to knock down all the old rust with a 6" angle grinder (combo flap disc and wire wheel) to prep everything. I left the galvanized areas that were still intact but sanded them. Covered it all with Iron Phosphate rust converter, removed the rust converter from the galvanized areas to prevent delaminating. The converter won't allow proper paint adhesion if it is inactivate on galvanized surfaces. Then I used some automotive grade epoxy primer. This comes with an activator so you have to work pretty quickly. I chose to mix it as directed and apply it with a roller and extension handle. This type of paint will stick to galvanized metal and pretty much any other clean and prepped surface. The advantage is that it is extremely durable. 2 coats of this was applied and then 2 coats of Rustoleum Oil Based Enamel paint was applied with roller was well. I used paint brushes in the corners and base of the walls. This is an amazing finish. Automotive epoxy paint was about $147 for 2 gallons and I used about 1.5 gallons of Rustolem Gloss white oil based enamel. The epoxy paint is pretty thin so it was able to flow into all the crevices. Don't spray it because it would be a fire hazard if the surface isn't proper ventilated. I'm very satisfied with the finish and how durable it is. I will be putting down a vapor barrier and insulation. The holes from the seat mounting points will be covered with Urethane type automotive type seam sealant. It can be applied under or over paint. As long as the surfaces are clean and prepped with adhesion promoter. Then I'll apply rubberized undercoating from the bottom exterior to match the rust proofing undercoating from the factory.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:16 AM   #29
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Thomas windows aren't any worse than other bus windows. They all leak.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:21 AM   #30
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Thomas windows aren't any worse than other bus windows. They all leak.
I can vouch for IC windows being just as leaky.
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