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Old 07-15-2019, 01:58 PM   #1
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Water-based exterior LATEX Paint - Mistake?

So I just sprayed the roof and upper parts of my bus in this stuff....then read up on latex paint on the forum....

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Color-Pla...-Gal/125479505
  • olorPlace Ultra Exterior Paint & Primer is available in thousands of decorator colors and is backed by a lifetime warranty. This premium quality 100% acrylic coating offers excellent hide and adhesion while providing a weather-resistant finish. The Paint & Primer feature enables ColorPlace Ultra® coating to be applied directly over bare surfaces of non-bleeding wood, vinyl, aluminum, masonry, stucco and galvanized metal without the use of a separate primer. Premium quality at an everyday value!
    Premium quality Paint & Primer
    100% Acrylic formula
    Excellent coverage and hide
    Strong adhesion to house and trim surfaces
    Tough, weather-resistant coating
    Low temp application down to 35°F
    Ideal for Aluminum & Wood Siding, Doors & Trim
    For use on vinyl, aluminum, masonry, stucco, wood, galvanized metal, and primed steel
    Lifetime Warranty
    Premium quality at everyday value

What can I do now to fix this so it doesn't flake off later? We did scuff the body and peel off the reflective tape.

P.S. At least the roof isn't a source of unbearable heat anymore.

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Old 07-15-2019, 02:53 PM   #2
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Ready!

Fire!

Aim!


Yeah, latex house paint is bad news. Your best bet is to strip it all off and start over with proper material.
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Old 07-15-2019, 03:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Ready!

Fire!

Aim!


Yeah, latex house paint is bad news. Your best bet is to strip it all off and start over with proper material.
YEah strip it off.
or live with it and fix it when you need to.
I'd not finish the whole bus off in it though.
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:17 PM   #4
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A pressure washer might remove that paint.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:39 PM   #5
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Enamel, or oil based paint for exterior finish...No latex or water based paint...
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:46 PM   #6
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I will say it again, industrial acrylic enamel paint work very well for me. I'm over 10 years on it and it is still holding up. It is water based, at least as far as clean-up. It won't ever be as shiny as a good automotive paint, but it is made for outdoor on metal applications.
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:45 AM   #7
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@ bus-bro, so what brand of industrial acrylic enamel paint are you using? I've found that Sherwin Williams makes it, but I'm having a little trouble finding a retailer that sells it around here. I'm not in a rush for exterior paint yet, plenty of other more pressing stuff to do, but I really want a white roof and absolutely no yellow anywhere on the bus.
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Old 07-16-2019, 12:03 PM   #8
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If you decide to strip it, you may find that the application of an ammonia-based cleaner and letting it soak for a few minutes will make that latex paint come off in sheets. Of course you will want to test a spot to make sure it doesn’t hurt the underlying paint.
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Old 07-16-2019, 03:01 PM   #9
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there are water born automotive finishes available now - ( acrylic finishes ) - they hold up very well - absolutely FORGET using water born or latex house paint on steel surfaces - it could be done in theory, with the right primers and preparation, but costs would still be up their with machinery enamel and house paint has a VERY limited life even on houses and much less on a bus - for the best job, use an automotive paint - 2nd best use a quick dry industrial enamel, and way back in 3rd place use a rust preventative paint - for number 2 and 3, the finish will not oxidize as much if you spray on a clear coat -without a clear coat your rust paint will be noticeably oxidized and duller in 2 years, the fast dry equipment enamel will show oxidation in 4 years without a clear coat - rust paint primer works well for all the above paints, but will show serious signs of failing in a year if left as a finish coat ( 45 years as a commercial painter )
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:29 PM   #10
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Sleddgracer: What is your opinion of the durability of a two-part polyurethane enamel implement (industrial) paint like the PPG AUE-300 series?
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:11 AM   #11
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Sleddgracer: What is your opinion of the durability of a two-part polyurethane enamel implement (industrial) paint like the PPG AUE-300 series?
I haven't used that exact product, but it should be a good one to use - if that was what was available for me, I wouldn't hesitate to use it
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:47 AM   #12
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I read several threads regarding painting restored tractors and implements using similar methods and materials as are popular here.

Many were using Rustolium with good results. A handful were talking about Sher-kem from Sherwin Williams. They claim better application and longer lasting shine.

I am going to give it a try.
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:53 AM   #13
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I used PPG Delfleet Essential with a hardner and activator on the beige portion of my bus. It is an industrial polyurethane. It has been on for 5 years now and still shines like a new penny. The bright yellow fenders on my bus were painted with an automotive base/clear coat and also have held up well. My luck with these paints may have been enhanced because I wax the bus twice a year. Neither of these paints would lend themselves well to roller application but might survive brush application though I wouldn't recommend it.
Jack
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
I read several threads regarding painting restored tractors and implements using similar methods and materials as are popular here.

Many were using Rustolium with good results. A handful were talking about Sher-kem from Sherwin Williams. They claim better application and longer lasting shine.

I am going to give it a try.
the problem with these products is the rapid oxidation - if having a bus that looks like it needs repainting after 2 or 3 years is ok, then go for it - the paint will continue to protect the metal for a few more years before bare metal starts to show ( or the original paint shows ) - with the amount of work that goes into preparing for a paint job, saving $200 - $300 on materials for a job that lasts a 1/10th of the time, or less, seems a waste of effort to me - I learned many years ago, that no matter how little a customer wants to spend on 'just want a cheap clean up job', pays no attention to the warnings, 2 - 3 years later are complaining about the quality of the job - by refusing to put my name on doing an improper job, or not using the best materials, I had happy customers - the same thing applies when I do my own painting - I might put it off until I can afford the better products, but the job looks better, lasts longer, and still looks good 10 years later
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
I used PPG Delfleet Essential with a hardner and activator on the beige portion of my bus. It is an industrial polyurethane. It has been on for 5 years now and still shines like a new penny. The bright yellow fenders on my bus were painted with an automotive base/clear coat and also have held up well. My luck with these paints may have been enhanced because I wax the bus twice a year. Neither of these paints would lend themselves well to roller application but might survive brush application though I wouldn't recommend it.
Jack
I've used a roller with these types of paints - laid on heavy and quickly and immediately brushed out to smooth the finish - you have to move extremely fast being sure to keep a 'wet edge' to your paint - I used that method doing flat surfaced doors on a job where spraying wasn't an option and the customer wanted a flaw free finish - I did the top half of the door first, then the bottom half - that was about as large an area I could do without getting tacky edges - using that method on something as large as a bus with as many areas that would have to be cut in with a brush would need a better man than I ever was - my advice? don't try it at home - lol
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