02 IC3800 T444E “sir wheelie”

[Aamafighter]

Hello,
My wife and I recently started a conversion. I have been googling and searching ever since and am pumped I came across this forum. I’ll post some pics of the bus. I’ll show off our progress and we are welcome to ANY tips or feedback.

First, what does everyone think of the floor? Found out after pulling the seats and plywood that there was a massive amount of rust and leaky windows. Bottom of the bus looks great and engine runs awesome.

[musigenesis]

That floor rust is relatively minor - a few coats of Ospho or other rust converter, prime and paint and you'll be good forever.

What is up with the last pic? Did you remove that large chunk of floor or was the bus already like this underneath the plywood?

[Aamafighter]

I pulled that part out. There was some rust going all the way through the floor right there. Gonna patch in some new sheet metal before I treat the rest of the bus and paint

[Aamafighter]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

What is up with the last pic? Did you remove that large chunk of floor or was the bus already like this underneath the plywood?

I pulled that part out. Probably overkill but I’ve got a good sheet of metal that was about that size. There were three spots within that area that was so eaten through when I went to pull the screws it ripped a hole. I figured if I’m building on top of it I’ll sure it up really well since I already have the metal. I’m gonna weld it in and coat the bottom.

[cadillackid]

Nice shortie! even air-conditioned

[Oldyeller]

I think my floors are worse. You can see them in my thread "Leavuntaun - Soon".

If your bus is not rusty underneath then the rust was probably caused by the floor covering (rubber membrane over plywood) holding moisture against the sheet metal floor.

I'm only going to patch where necessary. I'll screw the patches down. On the floor your first step should be to clean and descale the floor. As Musigenesis will tell you it looks worse than it is. Once you've spent time cleaning the rust off it you'll be familiar with what you've got. I'd suggest you NOT cut large areas of floor out, at least not initially.

[s2mikon]

I have personally witnessed bus employees use a water hose to wash out buses to clean them. Then we wonder why so much rust.

[cadillackid]

if you are screwing or riveting patches down be sure to use something like 550 seam sealer between the metals, this will keep water from spraying up from underneath and rusting between layers of metal around your new patches

[Aamafighter]

Great feedback. I cut the large hole because I have a sheet metal piece that’s about that size. I plan to weld it in and then use some flex seal to coat the bottom then treat the top with the rest of the floor.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Aamafighter

Great feedback. I cut the large hole because I have a sheet metal piece that’s about that size. I plan to weld it in and then use some flex seal to coat the bottom then treat the top with the rest of the floor.

For the same area on my bus, I squared off umpteen billion smaller holes and welded on patches raggedy-ann-style. As I was doing it, I realized that an approach like you're planning is much better.

[Aamafighter]

I had started to do that but then realized the same thing. The sheet metal I have is a little thicker than the bus floor so I figured it would be better structurally to just get that piece in there

[Aamafighter]

Got some more work done over the past few days-

Floors out
Floors worked with a grinder and cup brush (pain)
Side panels out
Windows out
Most of the roof out
Insulation out
Excess wiring taken out
Camera system removed
Oil change
Fuel filter change
Took out the driver seat cause it was having some issues.... fixed and cleaned

[Aamafighter]

I know that it's been a bit since my last update but work is still being done. I'm a weekend warrior on this project so it's slow but steady.

I got the bus painted. Sanded it down and primed. I used MAJIC Oliver Green Paint with hardener and the Majic Clear. I think it turned out good. Some runs here and there but I'm not a pro so I'll take it.

Put the windows back in. Used butyl tape around the edges and I sprayed expanding foam inside the voids around all the windows. I used black silicone around the outside frames of the windows to finish them off.

I updated all the lights on the back of the bus and wired them in.

I installed an RV window on the drivers side window instead of the big, very inneficient window that was in place. I also opted to put an RV door in instead of the old bus doors. I framed both the window and the door with sheet metal. The installation was pretty straight forward and easy.

The next projects are going to be a new rotor on the back, brake pads all around and I'm gonna upgrade the shocks to motorhome shocks to help with the ride.

Good stuff!

[BarnYardCamp]

Looking great. I really think swapping out the driver's window is a good idea. Should make for a little less noise. I'd like to see a picture of that window from the inside.

[Aamafighter]

Got a few more pics. Got the back up cam wired in. Cleaned up wiring. New weather seal on the back doors.

[Aamafighter]

Here you go… not sure why it keeps turning my pics when I upload.

[cadillackid]

The factory driver windows are much bigger and open from both sides.. that window for me would be way too little and restricting of view
It probably does insulate better than the factory one

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by Aamafighter

Here you go… not sure why it keeps turning my pics when I upload.

I was gonna do the same thing on my bus (9906) but after considering several members suggestions I decided to keep the factory window.

Don’t get me wrong, I like the smaller Rv window look but the things that made me reconsider were: smaller/ less window area to look out for traffic, pedestrians, obstacles. What was also pointed out was air flow. It was mentioned that by opening both windows slightly you can get better air flow to the driver while driving.

I went ahead and left the original window but I deep limo tinted the rear pane and did a legal tint on the front pane. That way I can see out to the mirror at night thru the little pane, block the sun with the window tint and able to open either window when the situation arises.

What situation- good question, just last week I had to open up the rear pane just so I could stick my head out the window in order to park a bus. Had to place the driver side tires right up on the edge of the concrete driveway.
Had to do this to clear a low clearance power line.

But… I still like the look of the RV window.

You can see the pics of both windows installed, oem and Rv. On post #96 of my build thread.

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/b...a-26674-5.html

[cadillackid]

I open both sections of my window all the time.. what i found with only opening one is that the mirrors create such a vacuum that even with all my engine-compartment sealing and heat mitigations it creates a good negative pressure on the bus and pulls in heat and such from the engine compartment.. opening both sections doesnt do near as much of that.. of course i have great A/C for hen its really hot.. maybe thats the OP, if you need great airflow driving because of heat you just have air-conditioning instead..



my bluebird is already an issue with pedestrian crosswalks when making left turns.. Bluebird likes to put the dfriver mirror to be viewed from the driver window on their conventionals.. this creates a huge left corner blind spot.. I really like my carpenter and superior that have Boom mirrors to be viewed out the windshield..

[Aamafighter]

All good stuff. I def see some pros and cons. The window I went with is a 30” x 20” and has the sliding screen on the inside. I’ve already stuck my head through it a few times doing the wiring, but I also kept the bug eye mirrors on the front of the bus that give me a great view while backing. The red building in the picture is the barn I keep it in. It is literally just big enough to have about an inch or two of clearance left and right when I pull through the door. I wanted there to be good insulation value and def no leaks!