1979 Chevrolet Bus - Page 3

Kirk · 05-30-2014, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opus

That seat foam makes a good bunk mattress or couch.

The seat foam was nasty, and smelly. The seats I took out of this bus were not the original seats. Most of them were from another bus.

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 05:35 PM

Here we go with the floor.

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 05:39 PM

The seats on this bus were taken out and carpet layed down, and the seats put back in. Lots of bolt holes in the floor. Im wondering what is the best way to fill these holes. Caulking is about the only way I know, because I have no welder. Any ideas???

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 05:43 PM

First sheet of plywood taken up. It wasn't to hard to get up.

opus · 05-31-2014, 06:59 PM

I just dabbed silicone on mine.

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 07:54 PM

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 07:55 PM

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opus

I just dabbed silicone on mine.

What is the best kind of silicone to use??

opus · 05-31-2014, 07:58 PM

Beats me, I just used clear silicone. You could use Liquid Nails too. Maybe someone will have other input.

bamper · 05-31-2014, 08:49 PM

I'm not sure what it's called but I used a thin rubber with a sticky backing. I purchased it on a 4" wide roll at the Home Depot. I know it's used in conjunction with Tyvek and siding and all that jazz. I cut a 4" square, put it over each hole and haven't looked back. Putting silicone in the hole first might not be a bad idea for that added peace of mind.

Love the bus, I too fell in love with the body style and have to have it.

sdwarf36 · 05-31-2014, 08:53 PM

Any color silicone marked "silicone II".

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamper

I'm not sure what it's called but I used a thin rubber with a sticky backing. I purchased it on a 4" wide roll at the Home Depot. I know it's used in conjunction with Tyvek and siding and all that jazz. I cut a 4" square, put it over each hole and haven't looked back. Putting silicone in the hole first might not be a bad idea for that added peace of mind.

Love the bus, I too fell in love with the body style and have to have it.

I know exactly the sticky stuff your talking about. Thanks for the idea.

Kirk · 05-31-2014, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdwarf36

Any color silicone marked "silicone II".

Thanks for the info.

jazty · 06-01-2014, 09:30 PM

Or perhaps Resisto? http://www.rona.ca/en/waterproofing-...75-ft-74165123

Kirk · 06-01-2014, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jazty

Or perhaps Resisto? http://www.rona.ca/en/waterproofing-...75-ft-74165123

Thanks for the info jazty.

Kirk · 06-01-2014, 09:36 PM

I was looking at water pumps for my fresh water, and was wondering what is the correct GPM for a water pump? I know Im way ahead of myself on this one, but trying to get ideas.

Timelord · 06-01-2014, 10:40 PM

You get a given pressure at a given GPM. There is usually a chart or graph that you can judge against your expected GPM usage.

The highest pressure/flow pump I have found so far is the Remco Aquajet.

jazty · 06-02-2014, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirk

Quote:

Originally Posted by jazty

Or perhaps Resisto? http://www.rona.ca/en/waterproofing-...75-ft-74165123

Thanks for the info jazty.

Well, I don't actually know if that's the product Bamper use, I'm just throwing out a suggestion (as Nat did).

Personally, if the floor is all ripped apart anyways, I'd weld the nail holes shut and paint both sides. That's what I did with my bus. It was probably just as easy as using caulk, takes about 4 seconds per hole and you can be damn sure it's not going to unseat itself. A small MIG welder will do just fine.

Scooternj · 06-02-2014, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jazty

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirk

Quote:

Originally Posted by jazty

Or perhaps Resisto? http://www.rona.ca/en/waterproofing-...75-ft-74165123

Thanks for the info jazty.

Well, I don't actually know if that's the product Bamper use, I'm just throwing out a suggestion (as Nat did).

Personally, if the floor is all ripped apart anyways, I'd weld the nail holes shut and paint both sides. That's what I did with my bus. It was probably just as easy as using caulk, takes about 4 seconds per hole and you can be damn sure it's not going to unseat itself. A small MIG welder will do just fine.

I was planning on using metal tape on both sides, with a daub of acoustical sealant in the actual hole before painting and undercoating.

jazty · 06-02-2014, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scooternj

I was planning on using metal tape on both sides, with a daub of acoustical sealant in the actual hole before painting and undercoating.

I expect the metal tape will eventually come off. I tried it on the underside of an SUV once. It was nowhere to be found after a couple hours of driving (it was applied while the vehicle was clean and dry, but I think going out into the winter weather did it in). Acoustical sealant is a great, albeit messy, choice for sealing overlaps and the like, but without tape on the bottom side to hold it in it might slow-flow out of the hole, particularly on a warm day.

Just my thoughts on it. If you go this route, I'm sure we'd all appreciate a status update after a couple months of driving. If the tape and goop stay on this is surely a step up from using a dab of silicone!

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