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Old 06-19-2017, 04:49 PM   #21
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I was told that mine was a 3 pound closed cell foam normally sprayed on the exterior of new foundations. I don't know enough about foam to tell you what to get or not get. This guy sprayed my bus for the cost of a larger 800 sf do-it-yourself spray foam kit. If I were to do the insulation again I'd buy the kit and do it myself. The contractor spray guy didn't really give a carp about doing a good job on my bus. If I were to use spray foam again I'd get the kit and do it myself. Nobody will do the quality of work that you'll do on your own bus. That's my best tip.
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:33 PM   #22
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I have found that to be totally true with hiring someone to work on your house, so it makes sense that it would be true in this case.

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Old 06-25-2017, 10:46 AM   #23
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Good looking bus! Good luck on the build!
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:57 PM   #24
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Thanks! It's coming along!

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Old 06-25-2017, 09:58 PM   #25
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Patching the holes with flashing tape.

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Old 06-25-2017, 10:02 PM   #26
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Finally finished getting the coolant loop out of the rear passenger compartment. It wasn't much fun, but got easier when I found an access panel with four screws. It allowed me to get right at what I needed to!

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Old 06-25-2017, 10:08 PM   #27
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Getting the floor insulated.

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Old 06-25-2017, 10:35 PM   #28
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remember if you completely remove the heater loop that goes from the back to the front in a rear engine bus without replacing it.. you will not have any heating or defrosting capabilities for the windshield or while on the road...

-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 12:58 AM   #29
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Yep, project for a later date. Plan to route lines underneath.

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Old 06-26-2017, 10:35 AM   #30
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Does anyone know what the wire is that runs along with the coolant lines from the back of the bus to the front? It is kind of strange.

Two coolant lines and a seemingly random wire all the way from the back to the front. Looked like it was grounded out to part of the plumbing in the back in disappears into the dash in the front.

Any light you can shed is appreciated.
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:40 AM   #31
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maybe a heater boost pump? would be controlled by a switch on the dash. and inside the "plumbing" could be the pump motor and not a ground out.
-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:59 AM   #32
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I bet you that is it. There is a switch by the dash with a water faucet icon.

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Old 06-26-2017, 11:04 AM   #33
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you might also have electric solenoid valves to enable or disable the coolant flow through the heater loops.. most busses just have a physical knob to turn.. at least the front engine machines.. so maybe in an RE it could be the valve that opens or closes the heat? I have little experience with rear engine busses..
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:30 PM   #34
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Mine has two manual valves. Not sure why there are two (isn't one enough?) Pretty sure it is for a booster pump.

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Old 06-26-2017, 05:36 PM   #35
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some busses have 3 valves.. depending on hopw the heater system is layed out.. some busses have 2 valves under the hood (supply and return. prevents heat from radiating through the coolant return to one of the coils).. and a valve at the driver seat in which the driver can alter the heating of either the driver console.. or in the caee of my bluebird. the supply line to the whole bus..

on my carpenter I installed 2 electronic valves under the hood, plus the driver, and mid combo units (heat and A/C) have their own electronic heat valves.. so i have full control of my heat with the touch of a switch.

-Christopher
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:33 PM   #36
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Have any of you use this stuff? Is it essentially just elastomeric paint? I've got to say I'm really impressed with it so far.

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Old 07-04-2017, 07:47 PM   #37
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Just finished the oil change. It would not have been half bad if my tween kid helpers hadn't bailed on me and it hadn't decided to gullywasher thunderstorm halfway through. Found a way to park it that allowed me to fit 5 gallon buckets under the drain plug.

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Old 07-04-2017, 11:50 PM   #38
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ive used flex-shot to fill in holes and seal around a hatch and it works pretty decent for that.. ive not yet used the rollable liquid.

10 gallon Sterilight or rubber-maid bins work perfect for lower oil change tubs.. mine are about 8-10" tall and are like 18 x 30" in dimensions.. they fit under even low busses and are big enough that I can catch the oil off the filters without making a mess. put the lid on, toss it in the back of my pickup and take it to jiffy-lube where i can pour it in their big oil bin.. take it home.. and clean it up with dawn and water.. works perfect.
-Christopher
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:46 AM   #39
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Good call on the rubbermaid! The worst part was pouring oil back into the 1 gallon bottles.

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Old 07-05-2017, 11:17 AM   #40
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Good call on the rubbermaid! The worst part was pouring oil back into the 1 gallon bottles.

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it doesnt have to be bottled to go to a Jiffy lube type place.. only an auto parts store.. when i go to a jiffy place they let me pour it right into their big oil drum.

to re-bottle, take the 1 gallon juck and set it inside a 5 gallon bucket.. and then a funnel and the jug wont fall over.

-Christopher
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