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02-01-2018, 12:49 PM
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#621
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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when do you think you'll have the indoor and outdoor units mounted and plumbed in?
if i dont catch it on the way down, ill definitely be coming back north the I-75 way as I'll likely have a bus full of furniture for a friend moving north.
-Christopher
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02-01-2018, 05:00 PM
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#622
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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Prob about a week or so.
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02-01-2018, 05:14 PM
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#623
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,973
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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You will also need the power and communication wires ran if Chris is coming buy for a full start up.
Should be power to the outdoor unit and communication wire from the outdoor .
to the indoor unit.
If they didn't send a ready made comm. cable then you need three wires from in to out.
Don't forget to pipe the drains out or get pumps that can be powered buy the unit to get the condensate out.
Not a big deal this time of year but I have seen many units that the installer didn't care/know about the drain on the inside unit until it was a problem.
Looks like you are having fun anyway.
Looking good.
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02-01-2018, 05:50 PM
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#624
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Roger has it right , normally the mains go to the outdoor unit and they ship a 3 wire SO cable that goes from outdoor to indoor unit , you run it along with your freon lines. If your units have the capability of drains st both ends of the pan you’ll want to run both . That will make sure the unit drains even if your bus is not level. You can ask someone like sonewherejnusa how he piped his in, I know how I would run my lines, he has 2 in his bus that work great so his solution for pipes and drain routing is proven.
The copper tubing they use is flexible but does kink pretty easily so avoid sharp bends, the tube used at the indoor unit stub off can be bent a little sharper as it is corregatwd and designed for a 90 right after unit exit. At least on mine it is.
Christopher
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02-01-2018, 07:00 PM
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#625
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,973
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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He has pioneer units so his closest option on the right for piping out usually leaves the flare connections in a wall. Even with a standard 3-1/2" stud wall the connectors are close for wrenches and the drain line is a decent length but I would want that connection tight or into a pump.
For me either all connections are readily accessible or ran to the opposite side of the unit so when the condensate does back up then the drip is visible not hidden and have to hunt for it pumped or not.
Many ways to go about it.
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02-01-2018, 08:55 PM
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#626
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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Primed and painted. Planning to prime and paint the bare metal under the bus tomorrow.
The units came with comm lines and copper lines that the instructions say to bundle together. It also says that the radius for the bends should be no more than a 4 inch radius.
In the rear I think the condensate line is going to go down through the corner of the bus and empty out into the corner of the engine compartment. For the front unit the condensate line will run with the refrigerant lines down through the floor behind the driver.
The instructions offer four options for how to exit the indoor unit. They are ranked in order of desirability according to the manufacturer which is sort of bizarre. It seems like they should either give you several good ways to do it or only one good way to do it but it seems weird that there would be a best way, a medium way and a not preferred way unless absolutely possible way. I am planning to have the lines exit the side of the unit rather than go through the wall and then come back out through the wall.
I know it means that I’ll have to do some sort of cosmetic dressing for the line set but it just seems much simpler and avoids some bending that may be tricky.
Thanks for your advice and encouragement! The rear indoor unit is ready to go so as soon as I can get the mounting situation for the front one sorted out I’ll be real close.
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02-01-2018, 10:35 PM
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#627
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223
He has pioneer units so his closest option on the right for piping out usually leaves the flare connections in a wall. Even with a standard 3-1/2" stud wall the connectors are close for wrenches and the drain line is a decent length but I would want that connection tight or into a pump.
For me either all connections are readily accessible or ran to the opposite side of the unit so when the condensate does back up then the drip is visible not hidden and have to hunt for it pumped or not.
Many ways to go about it.
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yeah I expect his flare to be inside the top header panel.. at least im assuming the units are mounted on the front and rear header panel. with the lines going into the area between the inner and outer panel.. thinking if he still has his school lights then he can pull those to use as a reach in for wrenches on the flares..
here are some pics of one of my Lab units (Yes im a Geek and I have HVAC units in pieces for "testing and development" purposes//)
this is the shallow drain pan.. my particular unit has the provisions for a drain hose at each end.. in a vehicle setting if yours has this i would use it.. you just drill out the secondary hose hole and have a hose at each end.. thus whichever way the bus is tilted the unit drains... going around a corner wont spill water all over everything.. the Coach Road A/C system are built with dual drains for that purpose..
shallow drain pan.
the main drain hole.
mine has an extra drain, you just drill out the plastic and attach a hose..
By the way anyone wants this unit they can come and get it.. its never been run, i just was "testing" the computers on it and the motor.. we just have to put it back together and it will probably still run i didnt alter its hardware or damage its electronics... Im finished with these units.. onward and upward to better stuff..
-Christopher
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02-02-2018, 02:42 PM
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#628
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
yeah I expect his flare to be inside the top header panel.. at least im assuming the units are mounted on the front and rear header panel. with the lines going into the area between the inner and outer panel.. thinking if he still has his school lights then he can pull those to use as a reach in for wrenches on the flares..
here are some pics of one of my Lab units (Yes im a Geek and I have HVAC units in pieces for "testing and development" purposes//)
this is the shallow drain pan.. my particular unit has the provisions for a drain hose at each end.. in a vehicle setting if yours has this i would use it.. you just drill out the secondary hose hole and have a hose at each end.. thus whichever way the bus is tilted the unit drains... going around a corner wont spill water all over everything.. the Coach Road A/C system are built with dual drains for that purpose..
shallow drain pan.
Attachment 18833
Attachment 18832
the main drain hole.
Attachment 18830
mine has an extra drain, you just drill out the plastic and attach a hose..
Attachment 18831
By the way anyone wants this unit they can come and get it.. its never been run, i just was "testing" the computers on it and the motor.. we just have to put it back together and it will probably still run i didnt alter its hardware or damage its electronics... Im finished with these units.. onward and upward to better stuff..
-Christopher
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Is there anything you don’t specialize in!?
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02-02-2018, 02:44 PM
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#629
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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Primed
Painted
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02-02-2018, 03:17 PM
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#630
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I'd imagine it's quite a good time laying on your back and painting directly above your face.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-02-2018, 04:46 PM
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#631
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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You would imagine correctly. Another senseless and preventable injury. Dropped oil enamel right in my eye.
I rinsed with water and the cleaned up all around eye by rubbing in coconut oil. It actually worked very well and made it feel much better, aside from taking away the mascara effect.
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02-02-2018, 05:42 PM
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#632
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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That's got to hurt. Sorry to hear that.
Manscara never really caught on anyway. Well, next time roll the bus over.
Yes there is a certain amount of suffering for these buses. During my sheet metal phase I left a lot of DNA in my bus.
Smart use of coconut oil. If it continues bothering you get some eyebright tea. Nasty tasting stuff, so it's got to be good for you.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-02-2018, 05:49 PM
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#633
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Almost as much fun as welding upside down under a bus. Nothing like a little magma dropping on your chest to get your attention.
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02-02-2018, 05:51 PM
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#634
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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or blasting off rust.. even with a face shield on stuff still gets in your eyes and face.. we just need rotisseries for our busses
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02-02-2018, 06:42 PM
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#635
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I've worked it out. I try to stay out from under the bus. I don't get gouges in my scalp or dirt in my eyes.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-02-2018, 07:36 PM
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#636
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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If I could figure out how to do the work without getting underneath it I would be all set! You guys are funny!
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02-02-2018, 07:48 PM
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#637
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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we're crawling under there too. You can tell by the dents in our scalps and the little tufts of hair stuck on the undercarriage. I remember it being a lot easier 40 years ago.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-02-2018, 07:55 PM
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#638
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,758
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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changing a 400 lb allison out of a bus with only 19.5" wheels and a flat air suspension created some unusual body positions and scars to prove it....
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02-02-2018, 08:07 PM
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#639
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
changing a 400 lb allison out of a bus with only 19.5" wheels and a flat air suspension created some unusual body positions and scars to prove it....
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That's pretty impressive to wrestle a 400+ lb monster under your bus. And you won. It's hard enough to do that kind of stuff in a proper shop.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-03-2018, 02:04 PM
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#640
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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Ok so I noticed a huge label on the box for the outdoor unit: this side up or permanent irreversible damage will occur. Does anyone know the technical details? If I lean it over to get it under the skirt of the bus is it going to be ruined? If so I guess I’ll have to break out the shovels...
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