4 Curious Georges' 2001 Saf-T-Liner

[david.dgeorge07]

Got a little done tonight. Stopped when I realized I needed a T from and hose clamps from the hardware store so I could take advantage of dual drains. (Someone earlier in the thread brought this up as being helpful to prevent leaking if not parked level THANKS!) No easy way to go back and do it so pressed pause.

Since the units are only 6 feet away from each other it seemed like a 16 foot line set would be plenty. Just BARELY long enough. It will be fine but it would be sketchy if 6 inches shorter.

Didn’t anticipate how tough a complex path would be with rigid lines. I think it will be fine though.


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[david.dgeorge07]

Viny tubing. Overkill but easy to work with. This is the “2nd” drain.



Joining with 5/8” tee.



Insulated to help prevent condensation.




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[Rusty]

You do real nice work.

Thanks for the detailed photos.

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Rusty

You do real nice work.



Thanks for the detailed photos.

Thanks! More on the way!

[david.dgeorge07]

Verified that the position was correct so I went ahead and put in a bunch more screws.



Got the control lines routed through the correct part of the unit.



I didn’t realize that there were different terminations on each end of the control wires. By sheer luck I got it in the right direction! The strain relief bracket for the wires has an individual slot for the ground and then another larger notch for the hot/control wires. Pretty nice design. Also the terminations on the wires were specifically for both units. I’ve read that on some units they make you terminate the wires with your own connectors so it was nice that this was already done up nicely with heat shrink and everything.







This was the part that kind of turned into a bear. I was doing an off label routing that seems to make most sense for the situation. It’s pretty difficult to get wrenches up there to tighten the flare nuts. I finally had to have a helper come and hold the unit off of the wall long enough for me to estimate the torque settings for these. Hopefully I estimated decently because I have no idea how you want to torque a flare nut wrench. I’m sure plenty of people do, I’m just not currently one of them.

[david.dgeorge07]

Working my way down to the unit. I decided to put the both the control line and the AC wires in liquid tight conduit as once it got underneath the bus.

Hadn’t used it before. Really nice stuff! Just make sure that you either have a cable snake and/or pulling lubricant or go ahead and load the wires into the conduit before you put the conduit in place.



Everything dangling at the moment but should be possible to connect refrigerant lines and electrical lines shortly.


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[Twigg]

The flare conforms to the fitting as you torque them down.

Usually they need to be just tight, then a bit more. Once the system is pressurized use a leak detector (soapy water) on each joint to check ... If one leaks slightly another 1/8th turn should fix it.

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Twigg

The flare conforms to the fitting as you torque them down.



Usually they need to be just tight, then a bit more. Once the system is pressurized use a leak detector (soapy water) on each joint to check ... If one leaks slightly another 1/8th turn should fix it.

Thanks! The manual gives tech specs, this is much more actionable advice!

[david.dgeorge07]

Theoretically the system should work now if evacuated and the charge released. Still got quite a bit to do to stabilize the lines etc.


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[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Looking good.
The wiring looks good also.
But the ground wire in your pic looks like a solid wire instead of stranded?
Ain't an electrician but always thought stranded was better in a flexible environment as for as wiring?

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

Looking good.
The wiring looks good also.
But the ground wire in your pic looks like a solid wire instead of stranded?
Ain't an electrician but always thought stranded was better in a flexible environment as for as wiring?

Thomas used solid core wire for all four of my passenger heaters. It managed fine for 18 years.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Sorry neutral in pic 2?

[o1marc]

For grounding solid core wire is preferred.

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

Sorry neutral in pic 2?

Good eye.

Stripped farther than it should be but connection is 100%. Wrapped 3/4 around lug screw.


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[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

Looking good.

The wiring looks good also.

But the ground wire in your pic looks like a solid wire instead of stranded?

Ain't an electrician but always thought stranded was better in a flexible environment as for as wiring?

I have listened to the discussions. I may regret it but I went with 12/2 Romex for all 120. The camper that I took apart was all 12/2 or 14/2, which may not be a good reason since they did all kinds of stuff I have decided not to do, but I think solid is widely used in the RV industry. Not to say stranded wouldn’t be better...the camper used stranded for all 12v and I am too...


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[david.dgeorge07]

From floor to unit now supported. Mounted to a 1x3 in the header that I used Great Stuff to immobilize.

Plasticine in floor passage.

[david.dgeorge07]

I took a piece of ABS pipe from the camper that I took apart and cut it in half and used it as a runner to provide rigidity and protection from the wheel well with the coolant line and electrical. On the far right is the condensate line with terminate at the bottom edge of the skirt just in front of the front driver side wheel well.





I did manage to get a little bit of a kink in the suction line. I did a little research and it sounds like if the kink is minor that it’s not too big of a deal on the suction side. When I have the HVAC technician come I’ll ask him about it. There are a lot of things that I felt like I had to improvise on to make this work but overall I feel reasonably good about it. I feel like the whole project is a lot of just taking your best guess, giving everything to die diligence and hoping for the best.




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[david.dgeorge07]

Detail on condensate line. The middle picture was taken before I added silicone to eliminate vibration.

[cadillackid]

looking great!!! you are moving fast!!

a kink in the suction line is less severe than a kink in the liquid or discharge line but still not good.. esp if its a tight kink.. you need the refrigerant to flow freely from the evaporator back to the outdoor unit. kinks also are the place where the pipe will fail if it ever does.. i cant see how bad yours is to know if it will affect anything..

the line hide and various parts i source from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/DiversiTech-2.../dp/B008HQ5Y8M

they have lots of fittings and such too.. flex corners, wide corners, start offs etc... you can pretty much build any setup you want.
-Christopher

[david.dgeorge07]

Nice but small storage bin...

Not anymore...

Making way...




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