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Old 07-09-2017, 08:05 PM   #61
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Hmm. It has no tablets...

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Old 07-09-2017, 08:17 PM   #62
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it says it does in the description.. though they may not rattle.. its the filter I use on my other bus that has a DT-360 and green coolant..
-Christopher
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Old 07-09-2017, 10:59 PM   #63
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You're right. I asked for the one without pellets and when this didn't rattle I assumed that it was right. It isnt.

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Old 07-09-2017, 11:15 PM   #64
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Looks like the 4070 should do the job. I'll exchange tomorrow.

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Old 07-10-2017, 11:46 AM   #65
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Third time is the charm.

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Old 07-10-2017, 09:38 PM   #66
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Got the flush and fill finally done! Only tricky part was getting the old filter off. Chain vice grip finally did the trick.

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Old 07-10-2017, 09:41 PM   #67
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people always WAY overtighten any kind of filters it seems...
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Old 07-11-2017, 06:59 AM   #68
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I agree filters seem to always be a pain to remove especially if some 1 else installed them, sometimes over tightens or they dont lube the gasket before installation. worst case scenario is punch a thick screwdriver right thru filter and turn if a strap type cant do the job.

its true the 4071 is a SCA filter and should be used on engines with wet-sleeves. as long as people test they coolant for freeze protection and adequate SCAs, i would think they could use any coolant/filter combination thats compatible with each other. we have always used regular green antifreeze with SCA filter changes every 400 hours for decades with no problems,

We had a farm tractor (IH 1066) powered by IH DT-414 and the previous owner didnt change coolant filter it can cause electrolysis which will more or less be very expensive and cause engine tear down.
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:11 AM   #69
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I agree filters seem to always be a pain to remove especially if some 1 else installed them, sometimes over tightens or they dont lube the gasket before installation. worst case scenario is punch a thick screwdriver right thru filter and turn if a strap type cant do the job.

its true the 4071 is a SCA filter and should be used on engines with wet-sleeves. as long as people test they coolant for freeze protection and adequate SCAs, i would think they could use any coolant/filter combination thats compatible with each other. we have always used regular green antifreeze with SCA filter changes every 400 hours for decades with no problems,

We had a farm tractor (IH 1066) powered by IH DT-414 and the previous owner didnt change coolant filter it can cause electrolysis which will more or less be very expensive and cause engine tear down.
you should not be using an SCA filter though if you are using an ELC coolant.. the later versions of most of these engines werre built to handle ELC coolants.. Nasvistar for sure posted a set serial number break for the use of an ELC coolant in the 444E, ford did similar (7.3) based on the recommendation of navistar..

not all ELC coolants are alike!. generally synthetic coolans like the AMSoil stuff is designed to work across the board..

its not only wet sleeve engines.. cavitation issues plagued the 6.9 and 7.3 IDI engines early on.

-Christopher
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Old 07-11-2017, 10:06 AM   #70
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I agree filters seem to always be a pain to remove especially if some 1 else installed them, sometimes over tightens or they dont lube the gasket before installation. worst case scenario is punch a thick screwdriver right thru filter and turn if a strap type cant do the job.

its true the 4071 is a SCA filter and should be used on engines with wet-sleeves. as long as people test they coolant for freeze protection and adequate SCAs, i would think they could use any coolant/filter combination thats compatible with each other. we have always used regular green antifreeze with SCA filter changes every 400 hours for decades with no problems,

We had a farm tractor (IH 1066) powered by IH DT-414 and the previous owner didnt change coolant filter it can cause electrolysis which will more or less be very expensive and cause engine tear down.
Even after some initial missteps I feel confident in the work I've done with the coolant change. The documentation from PEAK's website (the writeup of the attributes and application) the Thomas manual for the bus, and finally getting the right filter. Flushing the system, running it up to temperature on garden hose water, flushing it again and flushing it with distilled water, changing the (finally correct) filter, and finally filling and bleeding with the Final Charge. Thanks for all the guidance along the way @cadillackid and @LectricLance!
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:30 PM   #71
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I've come to a fork in the road: whether or not to raise the roof. I've read a lot about it and am leaning towards doing it, but I'm worried that it will scare away insurers. Advice? Oh...and I'm not talking about adding a Vanagon or anything like that! Talking about a 6-12" raise that would keep a pretty standard look.
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:26 PM   #72
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I've come to a fork in the road: whether or not to raise the roof. I've read a lot about it and am leaning towards doing it, but I'm worried that it will scare away insurers. Advice? Oh...and I'm not talking about adding a Vanagon or anything like that! Talking about a 6-12" raise that would keep a pretty standard look.
Don't tell unless they ask, Only questions I was asked was
Has the suspension been altered in anyway
Is it on a van chassie
How many miles a yr do you think you'll put on it.
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:25 AM   #73
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I've already got insurance up til when I have completed the conversion. They asked for pictures before so they will see any changes if they take the trouble to compare.
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Old 07-29-2017, 11:35 PM   #74
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Well I have decided not to do a roof raise. I am the tallest member of the family and I can stand up, so it seems like a lot of time and energy for a modest benefit.
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Old 07-29-2017, 11:37 PM   #75
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Old 07-29-2017, 11:38 PM   #76
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In other news after removing a million screws the ceiling panels are down!


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Old 08-12-2017, 02:09 PM   #77
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Slow Progress

Work has kept me from making much progress but I have got the the thing water tight finally! Marker lights, roof hatches, removed signs etc. were all letting in lots of water.

Also, got the thing out on the interstate and it drove very nicely! Anyone know what is a healthy RPM range for a CAT 3126b? I'm working with the local Allison rep to unlock 6th gear, but until then I'm wondering what is safe to run the thing at. I can get up to 65, but pushing 2400RPM.
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:16 PM   #78
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Work has kept me from making much progress but I have got the the thing water tight finally! Marker lights, roof hatches, removed signs etc. were all letting in lots of water.

Also, got the thing out on the interstate and it drove very nicely! Anyone know what is a healthy RPM range for a CAT 3126b? I'm working with the local Allison rep to unlock 6th gear, but until then I'm wondering what is safe to run the thing at. I can get up to 65, but pushing 2400RPM.
Yeah, it'd be nice to get the RPM's down/ top speed higher. New rear-end gears may be in order.

My Allison shop quoted $300 to flash.
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:28 PM   #79
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Mine quoted $150 which seems reasonable. With 6th gear unlocked it seems like the rear end should be ok as long as I don't want to do more than 65 or so - but that's just a guess until I have a better idea of what the ideal RPM is.
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:15 PM   #80
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Mine quoted $150 which seems reasonable. With 6th gear unlocked it seems like the rear end should be ok as long as I don't want to do more than 65 or so - but that's just a guess until I have a better idea of what the ideal RPM is.
Shoot, dawg. Jump on that.

look for this sticker for your exact configurations max rippem's

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