4 Curious Georges' 2001 Saf-T-Liner

[o1marc]

I'm with Twigg, doesn't look bad. I would spray it well with whatever brand of rust converter you have available to you. I use Etch and Prep. That should stop any rust in that area. I would not use the primer without first cleaning everything off the metal, but I think that would be overkill right now.
The converter I use does not need a second step, it stops rust from developing once it's been sprayed on it.

[david.dgeorge07]

Started working on hanging the propane tank tonight. I’m using pieces of 1/4 x 1.5 x 1.5 angle to hang in the floor channels. Here are the first two as I tested them for length.





The tank was heavy and awkward to work with by myself but you figure things out.







After drilling more holes I pulled everything out so I could prime it for rust protection.







It should be straight forward to hang the tank tomorrow.

This took me about 4.5 hours, and I learned a few things, probably the most important was that you shouldn’t buy heavier steel than you need on a whim. I could have saved a lot of time by drilling thru 1/8” steel instead of 1/4”. I’m confident that 1/8” would have been more than adequate.

A drill press would have helped but a good number of the holes had to be addressed in place and the tank kept me from fitting the makeshift jack press into place.

Cobalt drill bits are worth the money IMHO.

[david.dgeorge07]

Ready to install.



I got this access hatch out of the RV that I recycled. I’m going to use it to give access for the propane filler.



In a moment of moronic thinking I forgot that the corners of the panel are curved. I cut out a rectangle and then when I test fit the door the corners were cut out and you could see through. Here’s my best effort at poor man’s sheet metal bodywork.







Are used an angle grinder and flap wheel to cut off the ends of the screws. Then went over it with a coat of Bondo. Waiting for that to cure and then a second coat and I should be ready for primer.







I know in the one pictures above it looks like the lip from the floor beam is overlapping the flange on the propane tank. It’s close but the radius in the band on the tank lip keeps it from hitting.

There still some work to do to tidy this up but the tank is in and super super solid. As part of this I did spray rust reformer on all of the underside of the bus that would be difficult to access after installing this tank. I did not pressure wash but I did use a vacuum cleaner and got off anything loose that I could find an any dust that was loose and had accumulated.

I’m sure there’s a much more extensive process that would be advisable but I just don’t have time and energy to do something extensive to the whole underside of the bus when it’s really just a very superficial amount of rust. Hopefully I don’t regret that.

[cadillackid]

are you gooing to cage that tank similar to the way gas tanks are? getting T-boned would be bad enough but would be concerned about that propane.
-Christopher

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

are you gooing to cage that tank similar to the way gas tanks are? getting T-boned would be bad enough but would be concerned about that propane.
-Christopher

What method do you mean? My jeep has two metal straps around a plastic gas tank that sits just in front of the bumper so if it gets rear ended I’m sure the gas tank would be affected. My research showed that the approved location for a propane tank on an RV is supposed to be between the axles. And it needs to be close to one side or the other in order to be filled.

The tank itself is heavy steel and does have a shelf that projects towards the side of the bus. The only thing I can really think of is some sort of an angle bracket that would strengthen the skirt itself. There is fairly heavy box tube welded in a rectangle in this section of the skirt. I may be able to brace it to the frame somehow.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

What method do you mean? My jeep has two metal straps around a plastic gas tank that sits just in front of the bumper so if it gets rear ended I’m sure the gas tank would be affected. My research showed that the approved location for a propane tank on an RV is supposed to be between the axles. And it needs to be close to one side or the other in order to be filled.

The tank itself is heavy steel and does have a shelf that projects towards the side of the bus. The only thing I can really think of is some sort of an angle bracket that would strengthen the skirt itself. There is fairly heavy box tube welded in a rectangle in this section of the skirt. I may be able to brace it to the frame somehow.

It's in a very similar position to where Thomas fit CNG tanks. They are a little closer to the rail, but not by much.

[david.dgeorge07]

I got an assortment of smaller fuses today and have all of my 12v circuits properly sized today.



Also, a bird visited and got stuck inside the front windshield. It was fine just stuck. I put on some gloves and got it out and it flew off relieved.



Post bondo. Not perfect but will be just fine for a skoolie.



Priming in process.



Almost done.



I reinstalled this furnace vent today. This part was severely bent by the damage to the RV it came from. Rest of the unit was fine. I temp installed, but came back today and hammered it out and cut the top to fit with the seem in the bus. I wish I had taken a “before” picture. Doesn’t look perfect, but it looks sooo much better!

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Twigg

It's in a very similar position to where Thomas fit CNG tanks. They are a little closer to the rail, but not by much.

Oh interesting! Good to hear! I do want to be safe of course.

[tobeamiss]

I just got caught up on your thread back from page 752. I'm in awe at your progress!
Back to the condensation on your ribs. I don't understand the why's or how this worked out for me but one morning (it was 20 something degrees) but the sun was warming up the inside nicely and I had so much condensation on the (still uncovered ribs) that it was dripping on the floor. My plan all along was to put up Reflectix over my already foam sprayed ceiling before putting up the Cedar planks I plan to use. So I went ahead and did that. To my surprise, the next morning with the same weather conditions, there was absolutely no condensation. The ribs themselves only had the foil tape connecting the sheets of Reflectix and still no moisture at all. I needed to be able to locate the ribs easily for my furring strips that I need to attach the Cedar planks.
I hope this wasn't confusing but it's what worked for me....I don't know why or how it worked but my Son said that by removing any air to the cold metal surface (even though it was only the foil tape on the ribs) accomplished that.
I'll see if I can find a pic. I'm not sure I took one.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[tobeamiss]

Here's the only picture I took. I started the furring strips but you might be able to make out what I did. Also the roll of Reflectix, which I could only find at Lowe's wasn't wide enough so I had to piece it together.
I'll take a better picture this afternoon.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by tobeamiss

I just got caught up on your thread back from page 752. I'm in awe at your progress!
Back to the condensation on your ribs. I don't understand the why's or how this worked out for me but one morning (it was 20 something degrees) but the sun was warming up the inside nicely and I had so much condensation on the (still uncovered ribs) that it was dripping on the floor. My plan all along was to put up Reflectix over my already foam sprayed ceiling before putting up the Cedar planks I plan to use. So I went ahead and did that. To my surprise, the next morning with the same weather conditions, there was absolutely no condensation. The ribs themselves only had the foil tape connecting the sheets of Reflectix and still no moisture at all. I needed to be able to locate the ribs easily for my furring strips that I need to attach the Cedar planks.
I hope this wasn't confusing but it's what worked for me....I don't know why or how it worked but my Son said that by removing any air to the cold metal surface (even though it was only the foil tape on the ribs) accomplished that.
I'll see if I can find a pic. I'm not sure I took one.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I think I understand. I’m now faced with the situation where I have no exposed metal on the inside of my bus but metal that’s behind the wood is in certain circumstances getting enough condensation to come through the wood paneling.

I only had that problem once and I think it may have had something to do with my air conditioner unit switching from AC mode to heat mode and blowing out a huge amount of moisture over a short period of time. most of the problem was close to the vent.

I have not seen the same problem with it since then. If I were to fix The problem at a deeper level I would have to take the ceiling out.. While that would not be too difficult in some places there are some places that that would be quite difficult to do since I have interior walls installed.

Hopefully it is a situation that only will occur in specific and extreme conditions.

That is very interesting that the foil tape by itself seems to prevented condensation.

I wish I had thought to try out something like that before covering them up. I did go through the process of quite laboriously keeping any penetration of metal screws into the steel ribs.

Oh! And thanks for the encouragement. I feel like every time I go and work only get a little bit done but it’s beginning to add up!

[tobeamiss]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

I think I understand. I’m now faced with the situation where I have no exposed metal on the inside of my bus but metal that’s behind the wood is in certain circumstances getting enough condensation to come through the wood paneling.

I only had that problem once and I think it may have had something to do with my air conditioner unit switching from AC mode to heat mode and blowing out a huge amount of moisture over a short period of time. most of the problem was close to the vent.

I have not seen the same problem with it since then. If I were to fix The problem at a deeper level I would have to take the ceiling out.. While that would not be too difficult in some places there are some places that that would be quite difficult to do since I have interior walls installed.

Hopefully it is a situation that only will occur in specific and extreme conditions.

That is very interesting that the foil tape by itself seems to prevented condensation.

I wish I had thought to try out something like that before covering them up. I did go through the process of quite laboriously keeping any penetration of metal screws into the steel ribs.

Oh! And thanks for the encouragement. I feel like every time I go and work only get a little bit done but it’s beginning to add up!

It's absolutely adding up!! You're doing a fantastic job!
Here's the pic I promised.
And you can also see where I had to use a 4" strip where the reflectix wasn't wide enough.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by tobeamiss

It's absolutely adding up!! You're doing a fantastic job!
Here's the pic I promised.
And you can also see where I had to use a 4" strip where the reflectix wasn't wide enough.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

That looks great! I don’t know if I will be able to duplicate, but for others on their journey this looks like a great idea!

[Mgulley82]

Originally Posted by tobeamiss

Here's the only picture I took. I started the furring strips but you might be able to make out what I did. Also the roll of Reflectix, which I could only find at Lowe's wasn't wide enough so I had to piece it together.
I'll take a better picture this afternoon.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Is that just 3/4” plywood for furring? I’ve been trying to think about the easiest way of attaching a plank roof in place and semi flexible plywood seems like it would be the easiest


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by Mgulley82

Is that just 3/4” plywood for furring? I’ve been trying to think about the easiest way of attaching a plank roof in place and semi flexible plywood seems like it would be the easiest


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3 x 1/4" would have advantages over 3/4" for furring.

You can attach the first strip with screws into the ribs for a strong anchor, then bond additional strips to it so that no screws form a direct path to the inside.

[woody350ep]

Originally Posted by Twigg

3 x 1/4" would have advantages over 3/4" for furring.

You can attach the first strip with screws into the ribs for a strong anchor, then bond additional strips to it so that no screws form a direct path to the inside.

This is a great idea. Another idea to avoid the mess of gluing up 3 strips like that above your head would be to counterbore the strips before installation and fill the holes with wood putty or liquid nails, etc. to isolate. Personally, I might go with plugs but I understand that some people don't have the same skills to accomplish things.

You think this would work as a thermal break?

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by woody350ep

This is a great idea. Another idea to avoid the mess of gluing up 3 strips like that above your head would be to counterbore the strips before installation and fill the holes with wood putty or liquid nails, etc. to isolate. Personally, I might go with plugs but I understand that some people don't have the same skills to accomplish things.

You think this would work as a thermal break?

Well it would be a thermal break as wood is a lot less conductive than steel.

How efficient it would be is not so clear, but we have to do something and this is vastly better than nothing.

[david.dgeorge07]

Working to get less of this lovely but ugly spray foam covered up!

Here are a few detail shots. The outlets are from the recycled RV. They are great for situations like this where you want to recess an outlet I. The face of a panel but don’t have anything behind the panel to attach to. They have these toggle bolts that suck the unit up to the face of the panel from behind.

I went to buy some more and found that they are stupid expensive, so I discovered that a low volume old work box will work for the same application.











One done! (At least) one to go.

[Mgulley82]

These outlet boxes are not too bad on price and don’t require attachment to a stud

They are also really shallow which is good for our application

https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B117RS.../dp/B000LPTDVG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

I think I understand. I’m now faced with the situation where I have no exposed metal on the inside of my bus but metal that’s behind the wood is in certain circumstances getting enough condensation to come through the wood paneling.

I only had that problem once and I think it may have had something to do with my air conditioner unit switching from AC mode to heat mode and blowing out a huge amount of moisture over a short period of time. most of the problem was close to the vent.

I have not seen the same problem with it since then. If I were to fix The problem at a deeper level I would have to take the ceiling out.. While that would not be too difficult in some places there are some places that that would be quite difficult to do since I have interior walls installed.

Hopefully it is a situation that only will occur in specific and extreme conditions.

That is very interesting that the foil tape by itself seems to prevented condensation.

I wish I had thought to try out something like that before covering them up. I did go through the process of quite laboriously keeping any penetration of metal screws into the steel ribs.

Oh! And thanks for the encouragement. I feel like every time I go and work only get a little bit done but it’s beginning to add up!

minisplits dont have a good way to dry the coil other than putting the moisture back in the air.. thats one reason in cool cycle they try and run the compressor some.. (even a little) all the time.. the indoor fan never stops in cool mode.. in most Homes you would only switch from cool to heat in the same day rarely... in an RV I could see it being done more often.. as the indoor conditions inside a vehicle (even an insulated one) change much more quickly than in a house.. will be insteresting to see if you end up needing to swap modes very often.. since the Minisplit uses the same coil for heat as it does for cool it will always push the moisture on the coil back into the room. you could minimize it by turning it to high fan-only for a couple minutes and try to get it to blow most of the water off down into the pan (or suck since the coil is on the backside of the fan).. then switch to heat mode..

in my house my Zone #3 (its my bedroom and my home office) I do swap back n forth (I like my bedroom freezing cold to sleep.. and like my office quite balmy during the day).. I definitely have even seen steam for a few seconds from the vents when I first switch off the A/C and kick the heat up (65 for sleeping to 75 for working will always make the mode switch instantly)..
-Christopher