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Old 03-14-2018, 11:31 PM   #881
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Sounds good if it's steel, wouldn't do it if it's aluminum. Stainless would be best.


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Old 03-15-2018, 12:08 PM   #882
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Sounds good if it's steel, wouldn't do it if it's aluminum. Stainless would be best.


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Oh thatís a great idea! I forgot that I have sheets of stainless that I pulled from the slide on the RV that I recycled!
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Old 03-16-2018, 02:33 PM   #883
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Stove finally arrived! Fits perfectly!
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Old 03-16-2018, 02:45 PM   #884
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Had to detour to get my jeep running again so I could tow my trailer for supplies.

Harmonic balancer went bad and fan blades were hitting it.

Good opportunity to open the bumper up and prep for tow bar base plates.



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Old 03-16-2018, 05:24 PM   #885
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More test fitting.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:32 PM   #886
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How will you hold that stove in place while driving? I could see it flopping over on rough roads.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:40 PM   #887
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What stove is that?


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Old 03-16-2018, 07:51 PM   #888
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What stove is that?


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It looks like a small propane apartment range.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:52 PM   #889
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How will you hold that stove in place while driving? I could see it flopping over on rough roads.
If it were mine, and I'm sure David will do the same, it would be bolted, or screwed with lag-bolts, to the floor, the wall behind it and the frame of the kitchen at the side.
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:03 PM   #890
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How will you hold that stove in place while driving? I could see it flopping over on rough roads.


It comes with hardware to bolt it down.
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:05 PM   #891
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It looks like a small propane apartment range.


Yes, LP or NG Premiere brand 20Ēw 24Ēd apartment stove.
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:06 PM   #892
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If it were mine, and I'm sure David will do the same, it would be bolted, or screwed with lag-bolts, to the floor, the wall behind it and the frame of the kitchen at the side.


Yes. In the works. I am still trying to figure out how to keep the burner grills from rattling.
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:08 PM   #893
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Yes. In the works. I am still trying to figure out how to keep the burner grills from rattling.
So when we had that problem, we just popped a tea-towel under them for traveling.
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:46 PM   #894
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Finally finished getting the coolant loop out of the rear passenger compartment. It wasn't much fun, but got easier when I found an access panel with four screws. It allowed me to get right at what I needed to!

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Mine is a 99 RE Thomas and removing the rear heater is next. What was involved in removing the unit and coolant lines? Through my access panel I see one manual valve not 2. Iíll have to look for the panel to remove you refer to. Any info will help!
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:56 PM   #895
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Mine is a 99 RE Thomas and removing the rear heater is next. What was involved in removing the unit and coolant lines? Through my access panel I see one manual valve not 2. Iíll have to look for the panel to remove you refer to. Any info will help!
Mine only has one valve through that panel.

It has two others but you have to get underneath to find them. One is a handwheel-type like the first one and the other has a lever.

I haven't traced the lines (this weekend), so I don't know why there are three or what they all do.

I removed 4 passenger heaters and left the front heater/defroster in place. That means I pulled around 70 feet of rubber pipe out of the bus, and am splicing the good lengths to reconnect the heater but running the coolant under the bus.
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Old 03-16-2018, 10:23 PM   #896
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Mine only has one valve through that panel.

It has two others but you have to get underneath to find them. One is a handwheel-type like the first one and the other has a lever.

I haven't traced the lines (this weekend), so I don't know why there are three or what they all do.

I removed 4 passenger heaters and left the front heater/defroster in place. That means I pulled around 70 feet of rubber pipe out of the bus, and am splicing the good lengths to reconnect the heater but running the coolant under the bus.
I only have 1 heater in the rear then the front console and defrost. I am not off till Tuesday so will try to trace lines then. I wonder since it is RE if the coolant first goes through the rear heater on the way to the front or if the front is ďplumbedĒ separately?
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Old 03-16-2018, 10:34 PM   #897
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Mine is a 99 RE Thomas and removing the rear heater is next. What was involved in removing the unit and coolant lines? Through my access panel I see one manual valve not 2. Iíll have to look for the panel to remove you refer to. Any info will help!


My pics show where the send and return from the engine pass thru into the interior of the bus. The lines probably run to one heater, then thru floor just behind drivers seat and to the drivers heat and defrost.

Work either from the back forward or from the front back (what I did). Have buckets ready to catch coolant.
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Old 03-17-2018, 08:53 AM   #898
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My pics show where the send and return from the engine pass thru into the interior of the bus. The lines probably run to one heater, then thru floor just behind drivers seat and to the drivers heat and defrost.

Work either from the back forward or from the front back (what I did). Have buckets ready to catch coolant.
Appreciate it!
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Old 03-17-2018, 11:48 AM   #899
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My pics show where the send and return from the engine pass thru into the interior of the bus. The lines probably run to one heater, then thru floor just behind drivers seat and to the drivers heat and defrost.

Work either from the back forward or from the front back (what I did). Have buckets ready to catch coolant.
I sat the hose-end of the heaters in a cat litter tray before disconnecting the pipes. That caught just about everything then I filtered the good-looking coolant into empty 1-gallon milk jugs for use later.

Very little spilled.
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Old 03-17-2018, 12:06 PM   #900
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Supa Dave! He's got this stuff figured out.
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