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Old 03-18-2018, 10:51 AM   #901
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My daughter made these polyester skylight insulation panels out of old ceiling insulation last night. They need some cleaning and tidying up but I think they are going to work great!



Facing the plumb/square gremlins again. It occurred to me that if I used a rotating laser and lined its beam up with the windowsills I could use a framing square and get a good vertical line from that.

Some stuff wasnít adding up so I tried this method and found that sure enough, this crucial stud was off plumb by 1/2Ē. Maybe wouldnít matter some places, but the stove and counter line up with it and it is very obviously not correct.

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Old 03-18-2018, 10:53 AM   #902
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Supa Dave! He's got this stuff figured out.


If only! Just trying not to do something tragic!
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:55 AM   #903
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If only! Just trying not to do something tragic!










....
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Old 03-18-2018, 12:05 PM   #904
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After moving the base of the stud. This is the amount the floor plate extends...soon to be fixed...
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:32 PM   #905
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Stainless steel backsplash from recycled RV slide out.
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:45 PM   #906
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Stainless steel backsplash from recycled RV slide out.
You are going to love that. No painting required, no rust, and easy wipe clean.

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Old 03-18-2018, 08:21 PM   #907
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Stainless



Adding shelf, side, backsplash.



Another shelf.



Cut walnut table sections to fit. Sink hole to be added once we but it.
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Old 03-18-2018, 09:37 PM   #908
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Stainless steel backsplash from recycled RV slide out.
Nice! That's a detail that some of the manufacturers overlook.
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:52 PM   #909
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Stainless steel backsplash from recycled RV slide out.
I noticed you have a light mounted under the microwave.
For fire safety, I would put some of that stainless on the bottom of the microwave shelf, or a stove hood, maybe vented?

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Old 03-19-2018, 05:27 PM   #910
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Don't take this as a knock on what you're doing (because it's inspiring) but I was curious why you are using 2x4s? I'm still very much in the planning/research stages of my bus so I wondered why not use 1x4 or something similar. I see you are using pocket screws for your joinery and they work in 1x materials so that's not it. Cabinets are often made with 1x lumber or less so it really is curiosity. I was thinking that using the smallest stuff possible would be preferred to be able to maximize usable space/weight.

Am I missing some other obvious reason?

- Jason
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:19 PM   #911
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Don't take this as a knock on what you're doing (because it's inspiring) but I was curious why you are using 2x4s? I'm still very much in the planning/research stages of my bus so I wondered why not use 1x4 or something similar. I see you are using pocket screws for your joinery and they work in 1x materials so that's not it. Cabinets are often made with 1x lumber or less so it really is curiosity. I was thinking that using the smallest stuff possible would be preferred to be able to maximize usable space/weight.

Am I missing some other obvious reason?

- Jason


Fair question. I wish I had a better answer. The truth is is that I made the decision largely based on gut feeling about it. I could try to make a case for why I think itís better but I think smaller stocks probably would work. The work that Iíve done with smaller lumber generally seems to split a lot more easily and is significantly weaker and susceptible to bowing.

It also made wiring and plumbing easier.

Others may weigh in. I have no regrets on the way I did it but there are a lot of good ways to solve the engineering challenges we face.
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:02 PM   #912
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I noticed you have a light mounted under the microwave.
For fire safety, I would put some of that stainless on the bottom of the microwave shelf, or a stove hood, maybe vented?

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Yes, still work to be done there. Lights are in temp with masking tape. Already planning stainless underneath, but donít really see a decent way to vent...

Open to ideas. The microwave is in a self ďventingĒ cabinet. Maybe I could tie in somehow.
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:23 PM   #913
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Fair question. I wish I had a better answer. The truth is is that I made the decision largely based on gut feeling about it. I could try to make a case for why I think itís better but I think smaller stocks probably would work. The work that Iíve done with smaller lumber generally seems to split a lot more easily and is significantly weaker and susceptible to bowing.

It also made wiring and plumbing easier.

Others may weigh in. I have no regrets on the way I did it but there are a lot of good ways to solve the engineering challenges we face.
I'm undecided, but I like your build

2 x 2 would save some space, some weight, some cash ... but not much of any of those.

2 x 4 will give a more rigid and better anchored build.
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:32 PM   #914
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I use 2x2 rails or 2x3 studs, non-pressure treated. They can give off some nasty stuff to breathe and the pressure treating process can leave trace amounts of metals, usually copper, that can react badly with other metals, especially steel. However, it has to get moist and remain that way for a while for the reaction to eat through metal.
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:10 PM   #915
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My neighbor who I think disapproves of my project in general finally visited for a tour. He seemed convinced all my wooden structures would splinter when the bus flexes.

Who knows. It might.

Anyone have this happen?
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:13 PM   #916
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My neighbor who I think disapproves of my project in general finally visited for a tour. He seemed convinced all my wooden structures would splinter when the bus flexes.

Who knows. It might.

Anyone have this happen?
Have him pop down to the local RV dealership and examine the build of their products.

Then ask him again.
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:28 PM   #917
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Have him pop down to the local RV dealership and examine the build of their products.



Then ask him again.


Haha! Well I might point out that his opinion was unsolicited. How lucky I am that I didnít even have to ask the first time!

Having taken one apart, there is some engineering going on. The whole unit can flex and I imagine if you put a rigid structural element into it there might be damage in some place that flexible components join.

I do worry a little that when the bus frame and skin flex, the rigid 2x4s wonít float, so to speak. Hasnít happened yet though, and I took it on a drive with some pretty good bumps last weekend.
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:57 AM   #918
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Ok, looking for advice. From the beginning the plan was for the ceiling to be white.

Having installed the panels a while ago, the wood look has grown on me. I know there is no going back if we paint...

What do you guys think.

Pics of existing ceiling and paint test with eggshell finish.





3 coats on right side of panel. One on left...
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:04 AM   #919
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If it were me, I'd stick to the wood finish, with a coat of semi-gloss poly varnish. Just my 2 cents, I'm a woodworker, and a sucker for natural grain wood.

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Old 03-20-2018, 09:37 AM   #920
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paint it white but do it really thick and almost lacquer finish like so its bright white, shiny, easy to clean, and creates a lot of light reflection.. I love wood, my house is full of it, but I think its possibly to over-kill on the natural wood look... I also think the white-washed-still-see-the-grain. type looks cheap, whereas a glossy lacquer smooth surface looks modern and sleek
-Christopher
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