Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-27-2019, 11:22 AM   #1241
Bus Nut
 
tugboater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 276
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32í
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post


Once I verify that this is watertight I'm going to cover all the fasteners and the margin of the glass with eternal bond tape for an added layer of protection and clean appearance. Then a crazy idea that I have additional is to make magnetic insulating covers that I can put over them when I want to block light and save HVAC.
Hi David. I find myself returning to your thread regularly for ideas. You are great at sharing your methods. Just curious since your skylights have been in place for a while now...how have they held up? leak at all? any cracks? anything you'd do different?
__________________
One...slow...step...at a time.
tugboater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2019, 08:57 PM   #1242
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,405
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboater View Post
Hi David. I find myself returning to your thread regularly for ideas. You are great at sharing your methods. Just curious since your skylights have been in place for a while now...how have they held up? leak at all? any cracks? anything you'd do different?


Thanks! In hindsight I would have probably just used self drillers vs. nuts and bolts. Just because it would have been easier. Also I might have thought ahead to how I would frame up the inside and done that at the same time. Also, one of my helpers got quite a bit of paint on them while painting and we didnít notice til later. I have yet to seriously try to remove it, but I am worried Iíll damage the lexan.

No cracks, no leaks. Nice sunlight. In the summer we often put insulation batts in them and in the winter they help heat the bus.
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2019, 11:52 AM   #1243
Bus Nut
 
tugboater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 276
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32í
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post


I also got all new brand new LED marker lights to go with my new paint job!
Hi David, did you get your marker lights from an online vendor? If so, mind sharing?

thx

Eric
__________________
One...slow...step...at a time.
tugboater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2019, 12:06 PM   #1244
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
Thanks! In hindsight I would have probably just used self drillers vs. nuts and bolts. Just because it would have been easier. Also I might have thought ahead to how I would frame up the inside and done that at the same time. Also, one of my helpers got quite a bit of paint on them while painting and we didnít notice til later. I have yet to seriously try to remove it, but I am worried Iíll damage the lexan.

No cracks, no leaks. Nice sunlight. In the summer we often put insulation batts in them and in the winter they help heat the bus.
just a thought, how would a sliding cover work, like the ones in vehicles that have a skylight in them?
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2019, 01:01 PM   #1245
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,405
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboater View Post
Hi David, did you get your marker lights from an online vendor? If so, mind sharing?



thx



Eric

Amazon
Partsam 14x Trailer Marker LED Light Double Bullseye 10 Diodes...
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2019, 01:03 PM   #1246
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,405
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer View Post
just a thought, how would a sliding cover work, like the ones in vehicles that have a skylight in them?


On top or inside? I have a decent cover solution using polyester batts that fit into the skylights. I would not be able to spare the headroom inside. Good idea though for those with more headroom.
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2019, 01:06 PM   #1247
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
On top or inside? I have a decent cover solution using polyester batts that fit into the skylights. I would not be able to spare the headroom inside. Good idea though for those with more headroom.
I was thinking inside - wouldn't use up more than an inch I don't think
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2019, 03:40 PM   #1248
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Indpendence, KY
Posts: 2
Year: 2005
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Cat C7
What a great thread! I'm starting my bus (2005 Saf-T-Liner) in a week or so and I cannot wait to reference this! I literally just read all 125 pages of posts and learned a ton!



I did notice you never really did a 'final'/'finished product' post with pics etc. I'd love to see!


Thanks
farris2121 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2019, 01:49 PM   #1249
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
You could make a little test area where you've already disturbed the butyl to see if there's any reaction. Butyl is a very old sealant and I'm sure people have painted over it before, although I'm no expert on the subject.

you may be able to seal it off with a good heavy coat of latex - then you can paint over it with oil paint
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2019, 05:27 PM   #1250
Bus Nut
 
Mountain Gnome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 514
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
Also, one of my helpers got quite a bit of paint on them while painting and we didnít notice til later. I have yet to seriously try to remove it, but I am worried Iíll damage the lexan.
Maybe try this to get the paint off Lexan? (found at Home Depot) The pics don't show it, but included is a white buffing compound for polishing metal AND plastics. It turns the buffing wheel black; IT turns black when it heats up to apply to the wheel. It is kinda like plastic. You run the wheel at high speed and rub this stuff on. When it starts to melt (happens quickly), stop, and start buffing. It takes a while to fully load the buffing wheel with the compound, and you keep having to stop and add more at first, but once the wheel is fully loaded, it works fast and polished my chrome and aluminum window frames to a mirror finish. I think I started using it to remove the paint on the rubber wheel-well flairouts and it worked. Either that or the "erasure wheel" used to remove the vinyl letters and reflective-tape goo; can't remember which I tried. Took a minute, though, so the rest of the job I will do later..



I'm worried the Lexan will scratch eventually (I never have clearance probs underneath, despite the low-rider bus I have, but I keep hitting trees!) and I think this MAY also remove the scratches.



I know I love my one skylight (where the e-hatch was), though it is not finished yet. I am thinking of another in the back, if I decide against a roof-rack (very likely)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0514191715[1].jpg (124.0 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 0514191716[1].jpg (146.3 KB, 15 views)
Mountain Gnome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2019, 12:44 AM   #1251
Mini-Skoolie
 
Mark Miner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 49
Year: 2007
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 Pusher
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
remember if you completely remove the heater loop that goes from the back to the front in a rear engine bus without replacing it.. you will not have any heating or defrosting capabilities for the windshield or while on the road...

-Christopher
I know this is an old post, but I just came across it and just figured that out after in it just a little bit. Made the conscious decision to go ahead and take it out. I will have to heat and defrost electrically.

Mark Miner
Mark Miner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2019, 07:20 AM   #1252
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,814
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
Heating and defrosting electrically is not a good decision but depends where you live and how much of each you will be needing. Best to rerun the lines back to the front of the bus and use that proven system.


John
__________________
Question everything!
BlackJohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2019, 08:41 AM   #1253
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,405
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by farris2121 View Post
What a great thread! I'm starting my bus (2005 Saf-T-Liner) in a week or so and I cannot wait to reference this! I literally just read all 125 pages of posts and learned a ton!



I did notice you never really did a 'final'/'finished product' post with pics etc. I'd love to see!


Thanks


Thanks! Yes I need to post finished shots but I keep feeling like I need to do just a couple more things first!
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2019, 08:42 AM   #1254
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,405
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer View Post
you may be able to seal it off with a good heavy coat of latex - then you can paint over it with oil paint


That ship sailed a while ago. I just painted it over with rustoleum and never looked back. I think it will be fine. Iíve come to love butyl tape.
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2019, 08:43 AM   #1255
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,405
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome View Post
Maybe try this to get the paint off Lexan? (found at Home Depot) The pics don't show it, but included is a white buffing compound for polishing metal AND plastics. It turns the buffing wheel black; IT turns black when it heats up to apply to the wheel. It is kinda like plastic. You run the wheel at high speed and rub this stuff on. When it starts to melt (happens quickly), stop, and start buffing. It takes a while to fully load the buffing wheel with the compound, and you keep having to stop and add more at first, but once the wheel is fully loaded, it works fast and polished my chrome and aluminum window frames to a mirror finish. I think I started using it to remove the paint on the rubber wheel-well flairouts and it worked. Either that or the "erasure wheel" used to remove the vinyl letters and reflective-tape goo; can't remember which I tried. Took a minute, though, so the rest of the job I will do later..



I'm worried the Lexan will scratch eventually (I never have clearance probs underneath, despite the low-rider bus I have, but I keep hitting trees!) and I think this MAY also remove the scratches.



I know I love my one skylight (where the e-hatch was), though it is not finished yet. I am thinking of another in the back, if I decide against a roof-rack (very likely)


Thanks! I may test this on a scrap first!
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2019, 08:46 AM   #1256
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,405
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Miner View Post
I know this is an old post, but I just came across it and just figured that out after in it just a little bit. Made the conscious decision to go ahead and take it out. I will have to heat and defrost electrically.



Mark Miner


Pick your poison. I found that there was little substitute for the massive BTU output of a coolant driven system when in cold conditions.

Most miserable driving I think Iíve ever had was on a long trip on that bus up north on the winter.

It took three days of work, but I plumbed under the bus to bring the dash heat back to life. Totally worth it.
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2019, 09:18 AM   #1257
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 12,623
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
Pick your poison. I found that there was little substitute for the massive BTU output of a coolant driven system when in cold conditions.

Most miserable driving I think Iíve ever had was on a long trip on that bus up north on the winter.

It took three days of work, but I plumbed under the bus to bring the dash heat back to life. Totally worth it.



**THIS**


it takes massive amounts of BTU to heat and defrost a big bus in the cold..

if you read the BTU output ratings on bus heaters.. most of them will out-heat your home furnace.. the door heater / Rioght windshield defrost alone in my carpenter is 85000 BTU... I then have a 35,000 BTU driver heater and a 30,000 BTU left WS defrost..



when its 0 out im not sweating in that bus... im not freezing either.. but when I had the reight side heater out to restore it, my left side heater alone didnt heat me nice n warm..


I'll also say if the bus was built with Air-Conditioning keep at least one of the systems for driving unless you like the hot seat in summer...
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2019, 01:23 PM   #1258
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 50
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 8.3L Cummins Turbo
Rated Cap: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Coolest plugs are on ambulances and fire trucks- they self-eject the connection so they can mobilize quick. I couldn't find these at Lowes.

Auto-ejectors sound awesome but they don't work for very long. When I was a driver at my station I would always manually unplug the shore-power line first before getting into the truck. I pulled too many of them out of the wall of the truck room and had to write a letter to my Battalion Chief for damaged equipment! Keep It Simple!
__________________
D&J
1992 Blue Bird All American
8.3 L Cummins
drew78634 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2020, 01:13 AM   #1259
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 487
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
Even after some initial missteps I feel confident in the work I've done with the coolant change. The documentation from PEAK's website (the writeup of the attributes and application) the Thomas manual for the bus, and finally getting the right filter. Flushing the system, running it up to temperature on garden hose water, flushing it again and flushing it with distilled water, changing the (finally correct) filter, and finally filling and bleeding with the Final Charge. Thanks for all the guidance along the way @cadillackid and @LectricLance!
How did you get a Thomas manual?
kidharris is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:37 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×