I'm planning on spray foam all the way around to keep moist air from meeting cold metal. Having the framing in place will give the applicator (not me) cells to work with and a thickness guide for the foam. Haven't priced it yet. If it's exorbitant I may do XPS sheets and fill around them with expanding foam.
Wall framing mostly done, just need to tinker with the house/driver area interface. Next is ceiling furring. The rear wall area needs a few more vertcals to be ready for wall panels.
Note: I have read on other threads that it is a good idea to mask & tape everything you do not want the foam on as it gets everywhere. This means that is you want to have smooth furring strips as attachment points for your inner walls you will want to run tape over them before you spray.
I was originally going to spray foam but I don't think I want the expense and the hassle. For the curved ceiling, I'm thinking it will be possible to kerf 1.5" XPS to fit between the ribs with the correct curve, and I'm going to try setting up jigs so I can do a bunch of pieces quickly. Pretty much everything I've done on my bus so far has required a good bit of learning in order to get the correct technique down and it seems spray foaming is the same kind of thing - which means I could expect to screw up the first $700 kit and have to buy another one and still end up with a wonky job. Whereas I can drop a few hundred on Craigslist XPS (if I keep getting lucky) and figure out how to use it correctly at my own pace.
What window are you installing? I would like to get a couple that would fit between the ribs. Haven’t really looked around much yet. Any ideas or pointers would be awesome!
I ordered rv windows from ebay. The measurement info I could find on RV windows is that they are sized to the opening, not the edge of the trim.
My rib spaces are about 25" iirc so the majority of what I ordered was narrower than that. I'm doing longer windows in the "master" bunk which will require a rib to be cut on each side. I was a little hesitant to cut ribs until I found out that some buses come from the factory with picture windows and cut ribs.
When you go to order, make sure to take the rib flanges into account. (the plates where they are riveted to the skin) I forgot to so I'm going to have to cut through those to make my windows fit, which may end up being a pain. I think it'll be worth it to get the most window per segment but the thought of cutting skin keeps me up at night
Thanks for the masking info, Native. As it happens I DO have furring strips and I'll make sure to mask the heck out of them
I was originally going to spray foam but I don't think I want the expense and the hassle. For the curved ceiling, I'm thinking it will be possible to kerf 1.5" XPS to fit between the ribs with the correct curve, and I'm going to try setting up jigs so I can do a bunch of pieces quickly. Pretty much everything I've done on my bus so far has required a good bit of learning in order to get the correct technique down and it seems spray foaming is the same kind of thing - which means I could expect to screw up the first $700 kit and have to buy another one and still end up with a wonky job. Whereas I can drop a few hundred on Craigslist XPS (if I keep getting lucky) and figure out how to use it correctly at my own pace.
I've never seen 1.5". You're trimming 2 inch to fit I assume? I just put 2" over my bedroom. It's barely thicker than the ribs and that's just along the curve.
I've never seen 1.5". You're trimming 2 inch to fit I assume? I just put 2" over my bedroom. It's barely thicker than the ribs and that's just along the curve.
I've been using a 1/8th" bit and kreg screws for all the wood to metal joining. I got the Kreg Jig for strong, compact joints and loved the screws (and pocket joints) so much i just used them for everything. It's temporarily installed with zinc plated screws but I'm getting some brown coated outdoor screws on my next trip to there hardware store. Since the door can be removed with a screwdriver, using square drive adds a little security.
I don't have any special plans for the empty spaces, just sheet metal to fill them.
oh wow that right side visibility is TERRIBLE. Gonna move the door forward and up and replace the window with a bigger one.
Also, the local hardware box only had the 200 board foot Froth Paks in stock so I got some XPS for the walls. We'll see how that goes after I get the ceiling furring in. I'll use the spray foam for the tight corners and between the floor joists and the XPS for the walls
It looks like you rolled the paint on?? I'll be doing basically the same color, desert tan, but in a different brand. Still an oil base though. Did you thin it at all? What was your roller type?
Yep, appx 70/30 rustoleum high performance protective enamel and mineral spirits.
It went on pretty good with fine nap rollers and foam brushes. Thinning was key so it didn't end up all goopy like on school railings. The color mix was mostly almond with yellow, black, and rust brown primer added to get close to the Quicksand color Toyota uses.
Linear Mode
