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Old 03-06-2015, 12:37 AM   #121
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Inside paneling

I started paneling inside walls. I use 1/4" mahogany plywood. I will prime it and paint it (I know how stupid this sounds, but my wife doesn't like wood walls)




I had to temporary screw some 1x4 over plywood to keep it from bubbling.



The distance between "studs" is 27" and 1/4" plywood is too flimsy to stay flat on wall by itself wood strips helped a lot.

I used a lot of PL premium:



I love PL as a glue but hate how it keeps leaking from tube.... making a huge mess sometimes:

[url=https://flic.kr/p/ruim58]

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Old 03-14-2015, 01:02 PM   #122
Skoolie
 
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Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Slide outs are back

I finally finished some windows. I used bondo body filler and it turned out good:





I primed some walls with drywall primer. Drywall primer has a lot of glue in it and penetrates plywood very well.



I added aluminum angle (2"x2") around sludeout opening:







I was thinking about what kinda rollers to use in the front of slideout (indoor edge). Finally I decided to use a bunch of skateboard wheels. Skateboard wheels are not to hard, not too soft, durable, have good real bearings. The original wheel size was 52 mm but it was too much. I turned them down to 32 mm:



I simply put them on a long bolt and cut them using lath:



Here are all 8 of "low rider" skateboard wheels:

Last 2 I cut at much higher speed and they are super smooth.



I took 1.5"x1.5" angle and cut some notches out to install wheels:



Welding near plastic wheels was a lot of fun. I used a lot of water and a rag to cool them down.



I covered rollers with another angle and welded it. Now I have 13 feet 1.5"x1.5" square bar with 8 rollers inside. The rollers stick out about 1/4".

Today my goal is to install floor.
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Old 03-14-2015, 06:24 PM   #123
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Simply outstanding workmanship! Keep it up and keep the pix coming.
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Old 03-15-2015, 01:54 AM   #124
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I use PL all the time. Before you end the last bead let off on the trigger (release the lock) and squeeze the end to get the last inch out. Then stick a screw in the tip. Becomes habit very quickly and no more dribbling out the tube.

For wood I have a great source (price) on Baltic Birch plywood. Holds it's shape much better than regular ply. Don't know the cost where you are but it only ends up slightly more per square foot.

Looking good btw.
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:56 PM   #125
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Slideout quick update

Here is what was done recently:

1. Installed floor in slideout. I used 5/8" plywood on the bottom. I glued it down to aluminum frame (PL premium) and screwed from the bottom using SS screws. Then I put a bunch of 1x4 "joists" (glued and screwed like always ):







I put foam insulation between 1x4 and covered everything with another layer of 5/8 plywood. This time I put plywood across to make floor stiffer:



The floor feels rock solid now.

2. After moving the slideout box I realised I need some nylon sliding pads on sides and on the bottom. I bought a 1.5" solid nylon block and used it. I tried to cut it using table saw but table saw just melts it. I found a local plastic company and they cut nylon for me. Here are some pics:







Here is my mistake. I realised after adding aluminum angle it will lift the whole box up:



So, I unscrewed the nylon strip and cut it lower near the corner:



This are side sliding pads. I used wood router and sander to shape them:





Here are side sliding pads installed:





Today I will work on front rolling bar.....
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:40 PM   #126
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
You continue raising the bar.........

Unreal man, keep up the great work and documentation.

Nat
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:59 PM   #127
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Just to make it clear: I am fixing/braking/fixing just about anything since I remember myself. I tried many things in my life and lived in different countries and regimes. I used to work as a motorcycle mechanic for a few years, I build my house (4200 sqft) from scratch by myself, I tried to be a computer programmer, I do have great knowledge in A/C, refrigeration as I am HVAC and refrigeration mechanic by trade. I never took any welding training, but started welding couple decades ago.

Everything I do is doable by anyone. I don't have any hi tech tools like CNC tables etc.
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:16 PM   #128
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Just to make it clear: I am fixing/braking/fixing just about anything since I remember myself. I tried many things in my life and lived in different countries and regimes. I used to work as a motorcycle mechanic for a few years, I build my house (4200 sqft) from scratch by myself, I tried to be a computer programmer, I do have great knowledge in A/C, refrigeration as I am HVAC and refrigeration mechanic by trade. I never took any welding training, but started welding couple decades ago.

Everything I do is doable by anyone. I don't have any hi tech tools like CNC tables etc.
I can relate.

The more you describe yourself, the more it sounds like your describing me.

I used to get bored of jobs after a year or two max. After the learning and personal interest slowed, I would quit and find something else that was mentally stimulating.

Bouncing around like this gained me a ton of experience.

Now being a building contractor, I take what ever is of interest to me for work. I find some builds very mentally stimulating.

Nat
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:24 PM   #129
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Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71 Mid-Ship Mounted
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Awesome build!
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My Conversion Thread: https://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3065
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:02 PM   #130
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
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Year: 1998
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Rated Cap: 78
I think our personality type gravitates towards these kinds of projects. You're describing me as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
I can relate.

The more you describe yourself, the more it sounds like your describing me.

I used to get bored of jobs after a year or two max. After the learning and personal interest slowed, I would quit and find something else that was mentally stimulating.

Bouncing around like this gained me a ton of experience.

Now being a building contractor, I take what ever is of interest to me for work. I find some builds very mentally stimulating.

Nat
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:50 AM   #131
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
I think our personality type gravitates towards these kinds of projects.
I second this. I like to think of myself becoming a jack-of-all-trades. I think that's why we're all here discussing how we're going to hack apart school buses.

Seriously though, I've read this thread end-to-end twice now and the level of thought you've put into this clearly shows. Extremely impressive.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:23 AM   #132
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Slide out update

Here is slide out update:

1. I made box holders:





I used them to attach outside edge of slide out box to sliding frame:





I made them from square tubing (cut in half), piece of flat bar, threaded rod (3/8") and some nuts... All welded and pained... This holder are adjustable and allow to move box up/down.

After installing box holders and some adjustments I finally could move slide out box in/out.
I added some aluminum to compensate future floor finishing height:



Also because box was empty I put 2 55 gallon drums and filled them with water to compensate future load:






At this moment The flange is not installed, so I added temporary wood blocks to each top corner:



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https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/98-bluebird-tc2000-conversion-2-feet-roof-raise-3-slideouts-9728.html
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:41 AM   #133
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Slide out update

Here is slide out update:

I made box holders:





Here is aftermath:

1. I can slide slide out by hand in and out.

2. It slides fairly easy.

3. In "out" position top blocks hit the wall and there is about 1 1/4" gap left on the bottom:


4. From this point I had to use 2x4 and a small car jack to push slide out until bottom touches the wall.

5. I don't know exactly how much force I needed but I used 3/4" wrench and it was easy, so my guess under 500 lb.

6. I measured how much box sunk before jacking and after and it was about 1/2".

Here is before jacking:



Here is after jacking:



Here is slide out in out position:





So at this point I can call it successful. I still need to add hydraulics but at least I know it will work great.

I added wood strips and insulated all walls and ceiling using the same ISO insulation I used in the bus. The only problem I had to cut 1/2" from 2" ISO boards in order to use them in 1 1/2" slide out framing (Windows are made for 1 1/2" walls....). That was a fun "snow man" game...

I embedded some wiring inside insulation for future lighting and receptacle.

I am thinking about some spring loaded contacts (like ones used in Van sliding doors) to power slide out wiring. I might find a better way to supply power to slide out but at this point I am just to tired of thinking....
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:39 AM   #134
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Location: Olympia, Washington
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Engine: 6.9 internatiional
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you are amazing!
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:35 AM   #135
Bus Geek
 
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Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
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Rated Cap: 15
Beautiful work and great looking results!
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:03 PM   #136
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
I'd like to suggest you avoid the contactor style interface for wiring in your slide and use a flexible cable track, kind of like this stuff:

1M 25 x 57 mm Plastic Cable Towline Tracks Flexible Cable for CNC Router Machine | eBay

I always see that sort of track in the CNC machines I use, so I assume it would last with many openings and closings.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:06 PM   #137
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Did you have the bus suspension blocked up so you weren't leaning the entire chassis to one side? It seems to me like a half inch of drop might be more than expected given the rigid nature of the slide.

edit:

Awesome job, by the way. I'm proud to see you advancing the impression of school bus chassis coaches considerably.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:54 PM   #138
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Did you have the bus suspension blocked up so you weren't leaning the entire chassis to one side? It seems to me like a half inch of drop might be more than expected given the rigid nature of the slide.

edit:

Awesome job, by the way. I'm proud to see you advancing the impression of school bus chassis coaches considerably.
X2

As always, top notch man.

You know they make rigid Styrofoam in 1.5 inch too. lol

Nat
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:52 PM   #139
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
X2

As always, top notch man.

You know they make rigid Styrofoam in 1.5 inch too. lol

Nat
I do know... ;) but I have a ton of 2" fibreglass skinned top quality ISO board. This kinda ISO board is used in commercial freezer application. It is like $50-$60 half a sheet(4'x4'). I found it as a surpass liquidation at $10 half sheet and bought enough for whole bus and even some will be left...
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:54 PM   #140
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Sweet Score!
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