Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Besides what's the point of having a skoolie and a suit?
Jack, Kinda of an inside joke to myself (not even anyone else). When we have visitors at work, we are suppose to wear "business professional" which has been defined as "interview attire." My job is NOT very demanding but I still hate it. My next interview I want to be in cut offs and sandals (hate flip flop toe thongs). I could maybe dress nice for a tree counting interview (park service or forestry something or other) but that's about it. I really don't like the word work much.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
you will not like the round kitchen sink. Splurge and go double square basin.
Jack
The sink in the floor plan was a place holder but I've changed it to a double bowl graphic and moved it over. Also split the difference with the countertop and the stove. 12" btw sink and stove and 24" from stove to edge. Or do I want 24" btw and 12 on the edge? Shower then toilet or toilet then shower? That kind of stuff will waffle back and forth until it is installed. Hopefully I don't have too many moments once they're in.
Also added another side view as they are NOT the same on both sides so I guess I'll go ahead and re-upload.
The sink in the floor plan was a place holder but I've changed it to a double bowl graphic and moved it over. Also split the difference with the countertop and the stove. 12" btw sink and stove and 24" from stove to edge. Or do I want 24" btw and 12 on the edge? Shower then toilet or toilet then shower? That kind of stuff will waffle back and forth until it is installed. Hopefully I don't have too many moments once they're in.
Also added another side view as they are NOT the same on both sides so I guess I'll go ahead and re-upload.
Just my two cents, it's your bus, but I would (am planning to) put the shower closer to the center and the toilet closer to the wall, for head room reasons. Having to stoop in the shower because the shower head is too low is a pet peeve of mine.
Just my two cents, it's your bus, but I would (am planning to) put the shower closer to the center and the toilet closer to the wall, for head room reasons. Having to stoop in the shower because the shower head is too low is a pet peeve of mine.
I envision running the shower line up along a ceiling rib and bring it down as far to the center of the bus as possible to utilize the most head room. It mat come straight down from the ceiling and not from a wall like normal. You could conceivably have a shower head that is 6' high.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by synestine
Just my two cents, it's your bus, but I would (am planning to) put the shower closer to the center and the toilet closer to the wall, for head room reasons. Having to stoop in the shower because the shower head is too low is a pet peeve of mine.
I need a raise on my bus. At the wall, the ceiling is 83". It's 94" at the center. I don't think it'll be a problem. That said, that's one of the things that will flip flop until I run the plumbing.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
You could conceivably have a shower head that is 6' high.
Short people!! I'm 6'2" and gutted I could just brush my head on the ribs of my bus. See previous post. If I had bought a 78" bus I might have not done the raise. That said, I'm glad I didn't. The higher roof cuts down a lot on the claustrophobic look. I'm not the least real claustrophobic but the extra room will be good for storage as well.
I'm going to loose some of that 83"/94" with insulation and flooring but should be plenty to spare.
I like that layout, especially the off-center aisle and the dual-purpose privacy door. Plus, it looks like Grand Central Station compared to my 6 window.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking
I like that layout, especially the off-center aisle and the dual-purpose privacy door. Plus, it looks like Grand Central Station compared to my 6 window.
Now make it happen.
Took me a hell of a time drawing it. I measured one thing and drew another. Counted windows. Then counted hat channels. It just wasn't working. Remeasured. Recounted. I am from FL after all. Anywho, somehow I lost 28 inches on the drawing. Too bad it wasn't one of the 35" windows I lost.
And I have a new set of options to look at. I'm certainly open to others as well.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Got some more work done on the bus last night. And I guess some from last week that I forgot to post about.
So, the framing for the rear skin was welded into place last weekend. The skin was also put up semi permanent. Then the hat channel behind the driver's seat was prepped (not welded). And one side of the E-Hatch was put back together and welded. Need to do the other side and fold the little bit of extra sheet over the framing bar. Then it can be riveted on the bus.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Made a little sideways progress on the bus yesterday. I was tired of the extension cord unplugging itself so I had to do something about it. This is the before and why it keeps coming undone. It's in the way and every time I hit it with my head it would unplug. Some times with the cord running out the e-hatch. A PITA. This is the Before.
A bucket full of parts. Is electrical stuff parts? Just sounds weird saying parts for electrical. Anywho, Home Depot didn't have what I wanted. I don't think anyone does. Fairly sure it isn't code. It damn sure isn't industry standard. So, here's the bucket-o-parts. A couple got swapped out. Some were cannibalized.
This is one of the ones that was swapped out. I had the slim profile at first but sure enough it wasn't deep enough. The box was only so deep. Couldn't get stuff to move far enough. Back to Home Depot. It's become the second home. I wish there was a Lowe's that was closer. They have a Veteran's discount. Home Depot has military discount and I use my CAC for that but wire apparently isn't included. Bought that from HP, returned it when I found it on Amazon cheaper, tried to cancel Amazon when I found it at Lowe's cheaper than online. Already in fulfillment but they are refunding the difference. That's the way customer service should be.
This is all pretty standard so far. This part is "different". I wanted a pass-thru. This may exist in one form or another in industry. If not, it probably should. I just welded two boxes together facing opposite directions. No biggies and fairly straight forward.
This is the weird part. Think you have it figured out yet? And if it does exist PLEASE let me know as what I did is pretty jainky. I want to be able to plug the bus into the power at the storage lot. In my spot the passenger side is the closest to power. I know standard RV hook-ups are driver's side. I think I want everything redundant; city water, sewer, and electrical. So before I'm done there will be hook-ups on both sides. Anywho, I want to be able to use any extension cord to plug in the bus. It would have been much easier, cheaper, and cleaner if I cut the end off an extension cord and replaced it the female with a male. But this way if I'm parked at your house and forgot the cord, I can still be plugged in. Here's the Frankein Konnection.
The weather proof box is supposed to be an in-use box. The lid closes most of the way but it's not a very nice bend for the extension cord. It also doesn't have a cut out for the cord so what the hell? It's a metal box so looks like I'll be doing a little modification to it as well.
Another part that got swapped out was the single circle outlet. I swapped it for the traditional 2 outlet type. Figured I might as well instead of HAVING to use a multi-outlet later. I was also going to buy a 25 foot roll of romex and install another outlet up at the main door of the bus. The price was half of a 250' roll. 25' =/= (1/2)*250' What the hell?!!? Didn't really matter much tho as they were completely out. They had 15' and 100' so I decided I'd just wait for my 250' to show up. Then I could put it right at the door instead of a hat channel or 3 back.
Except for the jainky weld on impossibly thin sheet metal of the male outlet body, I'm happy with it. So if there is a real replacement let me know and I'll get rid of the pronged outlet. It looks like it's arced (from the welding) and it did kinda scare me when I plugged it in and it didn't work. I used a GFI and it needed to be reset. Phffffew.
Code? What's that? Cool idea. Reading the stickies on the electrical thread here has me all paranoid about hotskin scenarios. If I hadn't read those before seeing this I'd be all over it. Fortunately I have a couple electrically minded buddies that will be checking my work. For now, my alternative to that is to run a cord through my stop sign hole.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboater
Code? What's that? Cool idea. Reading the stickies on the electrical thread here has me all paranoid about hotskin scenarios. If I hadn't read those before seeing this I'd be all over it. Fortunately I have a couple electrically minded buddies that will be checking my work. For now, my alternative to that is to run a cord through my stop sign hole.
NEC code that doesn't apply to homemade RVs.
Hot skin??? Not sure what that is but sounds like one of the prescription commercials on TV for some made up $hit. If you are talking about the wires getting hot then it's definitely the above. Your house most likely has outside outlets. If you're that worried about it, leave a 1/4" gap. I dunno where my interior walls will end up so I didn't bother trying to guess on a gap. It's more than tack welded but nothing that a cutting wheel can't remove. In fack I had to remove the angle iron after welding it. It would seem someone marked the bottom of the angle and then someone used that mark for the top of the angle when welding. I dunno who the hell did that but if I catch them.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Hot skin is when the body of the bus is electrified.
If you are inside the bus you probably won't notice it.
Stand, barefooted, outside of the bus and touch the bus and you get shocked.
Ah gotcha. Well, I've got a GFI outlet in there that should take care of it. Get a grounding rod if you're staying any time. I could have used some conduit between boxes and likely will before making it permanent. You can also go with the Life is a Joy method. He used the plastic boxes and welded the nails to the hat channel. Insulated box while being able to keep them from moving around.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
P.S. Not in the picture is the outlet itself. I wrapped the contact screws all the way around the body with electrical tape. The weak point is where it passes from one box to the other. I should have rounded the edges. The jacket of the romex cuts a lot easier than I remember from back in the day but the insulation on the wires themselves is still pretty tough.
So if you can power the bus from either side, which seems like a good idea to me, how will you isolate the plug not being used to feed the bus. You don't want both sides hot so how will you handle that? As you have a picture of the inlet that would likely be hot depending on how you are able to wire it.
Maybe just do the one side or the other to eliminate a dangerous situation.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
So if you can power the bus from either side, which seems like a good idea to me, how will you isolate the plug not being used to feed the bus. You don't want both sides hot so how will you handle that? As you have a picture of the inlet that would likely be hot depending on how you are able to wire it.
Maybe just do the one side or the other to eliminate a dangerous situation.
John
Do the other side exactly as this one is done. Right now the plug isn't feeding anything other than its opposite side. They aren't connected and both would be independent.
Do the other side exactly as this one is done. Right now the plug isn't feeding anything other than its opposite side. They aren't connected and both would be independent.
That is a 15 amp male end, why not go 30 or 50 amp?
And I assume you will have only one main panel so both sides have to feed it and be kept separate. How will you accomplish that? Double pole, double throw main switch before the panel?