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Old 07-01-2019, 02:29 PM   #521
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The pix were so good that single was sinful, and twice is nice!
I kinda like how it bows out!
Gives it a nice aerodynamic look, and I bet the lift it supplys will greatly improve your fuel economy.
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Old 07-01-2019, 02:33 PM   #522
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The pix were so good that single was sinful, and twice is nice!
I kinda like how it bows out!
Gives it a nice aerodynamic look, and I bet the lift it supplys will greatly improve your fuel economy.
No pics from Sunday where I left off. The two ribs in the louver picture are vastly incomplete with riveting.



The Grainger rivets in my size come in 240 counts. I've got 2 on order. That ought more than do me.
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Old 07-02-2019, 10:20 AM   #523
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Rivet order is in!!



From last night...
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:35 AM   #524
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Looking good. Did you intentionally leave the lower right corner over the drip edge?
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:00 PM   #525
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Looking good. Did you intentionally leave the lower right corner over the drip edge?
No, but it needs to be that way for water run off at speed.
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:04 PM   #526
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There was also something weird with the alignment going on so it was a better option anyway.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:58 PM   #527
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Chamber A at NASA's Johnson Space Center in Houston, is 65' in diameter and 120' tall, all make of stainless steel, it's 400,000 cubic feet, the first time they pulled a hard vacuum (The same hard vacuum you get in outer space) on the chamber, the 40 foot round door collapsed. That 120 foot height also shrinks 3 inches. It was made this big so the entire Apollo and men would fit inside of it. If you ever take the tour, you can look inside the window and see just how big it is.
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Old 08-09-2019, 01:50 PM   #528
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Chamber A at NASA's Johnson Space Center in Houston, is 65' in diameter and 120' tall, all make of stainless steel, it's 400,000 cubic feet, the first time they pulled a hard vacuum (The same hard vacuum you get in outer space) on the chamber, the 40 foot round door collapsed. That 120 foot height also shrinks 3 inches. It was made this big so the entire Apollo and men would fit inside of it. If you ever take the tour, you can look inside the window and see just how big it is.
Not that I disapprove of this post but relevance and did you post it in the right thread?

If they are getting rid of it, can we put it on wheels and turn it into a smoker?
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:05 AM   #529
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Rivet order is in!!



From last night...



What gauge of sheet metal/rivet size did you go with? I'll be skinning my windows on my Bluebird soon. My plan is to cut the first row of rivets on top and tuck the sheet metal in underneath the drip rail.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:15 AM   #530
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What gauge of sheet metal/rivet size did you go with? I'll be skinning my windows on my Bluebird soon. My plan is to cut the first row of rivets on top and tuck the sheet metal in underneath the drip rail.
Sorry, didn't see your post. Internet is slow here.

So, which rivets? I've got more rivets and sizes than you can shake a stick at. I've tried them all. Most of the rivets are 3/16" solid steel rivets. For those, it's a 2 person job re-installing them. Someone has to buck them while they are being hammered. You'll need a 4x rivet gun (~$175). Totally worth it in removing the rivets by the way. A chisel bit and there's not a rivet on the bus that stands a chance.

Along the front cap, I have 1/4" solid rivets. For that you really need a rivet gun stronger than 4x. I dunno if a 5x will do or not (don't remember) but a 6x will for sure. The 4x will mush them just enough but I wouldn't recommend using 1/4" solids everywhere unless you have a bigger gun.

I also have 3/16" and 1/4" pop rivets. I would recommend large flange rivets as the rub rail and some of the other holes can be large or oblong. If you use stainless (mine are regular steel mixed with aluminum), you'll want a better than Harbor Freight pneumatic rivet gun. Stainless is some tough stuff.

My sheet metal is 18 gauge. It's thin enough to work and thick enough that it doesn't (oil can) crinkle. Transcendence used 20 or 22 gauge and it oil canned when he spray foamed. A Facebooker I've been following decided to use 16 gauge and had a hell of a time bending the front and rear curves. If you go 16 gauge, use a welding gas bottle as a form for the curves. It's about the right diameter and is heavy duty enough that'll work without damaging it.

My raise is 18". It was planned for 15" but that would have required shearing the sheet metal. I don't have any shop buddies so I went with 18" just to save the effort. I removed the bottom row at the drip rail and the top row at the rub rail. If you are NOT raising, take out the 18" from the 48" width and you're going to want 30" sheet (assuming 24" tall windows). Mine was a VERY snug fit so if you went 29" it would probably be easier to move around. I just didn't want it "falling". Sitting on the rub rail rivets, it fit perfectly and I didn't have to worry much about one end higher than the other or it moving while drilling once I had it properly aligned.



My sheet is pretty close to the top row of drip rail rivets. Not quite touching but well within the bottom row for reattaching. It sits on the bottom rivets of the rub rail so there's almost 4 inches of overlap there. Without a raise, I'm not sure how much hell you'll pay getting the sheet to bend to get it under the drip rail. With 18 gauge and the raise, it wasn't hard at all. With two people you can have someone inside pushing on the center to get it to bow out. Outside person gets it under the drip. Inside person also has to make sure it doesn't catch where the OEM sheet overlaps.



I have near 1,000 1/4" solid steel rivets that will need a home. You (or anyone else) pay shipping and they;re yours. Flat rate USPS would probably be cheapest.
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:40 AM   #531
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So, Aug 16th was the day that I installed the last of the roof raise rivets.

I've had the floor plan drawn out on paper for awhile now. After taping and laying it out in the bus I made a couple of changes. Deleted a window, moved a wall and a floor raise in the bedroom. After building it in cardboard, I made a couple of more changes. Different size window and moving one.

Now it's time to order windows and insulation.
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File Type: jpg Bathroom.jpg (360.3 KB, 11 views)
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:50 AM   #532
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congrats, Bob!
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:21 PM   #533
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Thx, Charlie.

Cardboard build pics.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20190822_172415.jpg (278.0 KB, 10 views)
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:38 PM   #534
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Space goes away real quick doesn't it?
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:05 PM   #535
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Space goes away real quick doesn't it?
Man you aren't kidding!! I dunno how the family of 7 with 13 dogs manage to fit in the shorties.
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:11 PM   #536
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Pictures here always seem to be deceiving, the builds always look so spacious. Then I'm in mine and can not believe how tight it all gets.
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Old 08-28-2019, 08:02 AM   #537
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Pictures here always seem to be deceiving, the builds always look so spacious. Then I'm in mine and can not believe how tight it all gets.
Yep. You should see some of the pictures for real estate. People using fish eye lenses. Um the walls are curved; you're not fooling anyone!!


With the skoolie, I'm wondering about light and getting air to move around. Forward of the rear axle is my bathroom area. No windows from about mid-ship until the 2nd to last hat channel. That's a long section with no natural light. I could put in a small window I suppose but I don't loiter in the bathroom at work or home. Putting one in the hallway just for light seems silly. I might replace the roof hatches with something clear. I just dunno. Maybe I should go Charlie's route and buy buses and never get beyond the sheet metal stage.
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Old 08-28-2019, 08:22 AM   #538
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Yep. You should see some of the pictures for real estate. People using fish eye lenses. Um the walls are curved; you're not fooling anyone!!


With the skoolie, I'm wondering about light and getting air to move around. Forward of the rear axle is my bathroom area. No windows from about mid-ship until the 2nd to last hat channel. That's a long section with no natural light. I could put in a small window I suppose but I don't loiter in the bathroom at work or home. Putting one in the hallway just for light seems silly. I might replace the roof hatches with something clear. I just dunno. Maybe I should go Charlie's route and buy buses and never get beyond the sheet metal stage.

hey I buy busses and never even take out the seats.. lots of natural light inside
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Old 08-28-2019, 09:20 AM   #539
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Nice job Bob. Happy that you are closed in and dry for the coming winter.

Johan
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:49 PM   #540
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hey I buy busses and never even take out the seats.. lots of natural light inside
Lol that you do!! Replace all those windows with sheet metal tho and there's not a lot of natural light left. It makes finding the holes in the floor, ceiling and walls easier tho.
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