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Old 01-13-2020, 11:20 AM   #561
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Any possibility that your in floor heat could be accomplished by using a (seperate) tankless water heater and an extra water pump? That's probably what I'd do in mine.

I do have a Webasto but it isn't firing up and I can buy a tankless heater on Amazon for the same price as many Webasto replacement parts.

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Old 01-13-2020, 02:20 PM   #562
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Any possibility that your in floor heat could be accomplished by using a (seperate) tankless water heater and an extra water pump? That's probably what I'd do in mine.

I do have a Webasto but it isn't firing up and I can buy a tankless heater on Amazon for the same price as many Webasto replacement parts.
I haven't found any that run on diesel. I want a single fuel source. It's going to cost more but hopefully it's worth it. Diesel cooking stove too.
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Old 01-13-2020, 02:32 PM   #563
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Hows it goin up there, Bob?
Gonna come down in Feb?
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Old 01-14-2020, 07:28 AM   #564
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Hows it goin up there, Bob?
Gonna come down in Feb?
When/where is that again? If I do, it will be sans bus again. I'm definitely up for a road trip tho. Started a new job just before Thxgiving and have been Jonesing for a trip.
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Old 01-14-2020, 07:39 AM   #565
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that heater looks like what I need for the DEV bus.. will ne interesting to see if you can change the temperature on it for the floor loops.. or just cycle it in and out..
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Old 01-14-2020, 07:39 AM   #566
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Ran out of transfer plates. 20 more are due for delivery today.


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Old 01-14-2020, 07:45 AM   #567
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that heater looks like what I need for the DEV bus.. will ne interesting to see if you can change the temperature on it for the floor loops.. or just cycle it in and out..
It comes with a controller so should be able to!!


Now I need some basic chemistry/HVAC help. Let's say 170° out, I want 105° shower water. How much heat exchanger do I need? Something, something specific heat...
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Old 01-14-2020, 09:01 AM   #568
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this is a tough one. because what you get out of a heat exchanger is greatly affected by what you bring in.. so the "hot side " is 170 and lets just say the pump is good enough for little drop you have to figure the 105 based on how many Gallons per minute you are flowing along with whats the inlet water temp on the domestic side of the exchanger.... everything is calculated in BTU of heat added to the domestic water based on its inlet temp and its flow...



for example, a 150,000 BTU high efficiency tankless water heater can rise the temperature of the water 45 degrees (60 in 105 out) at a rate of 6.5 Gallons per minute.. same unit (say your water is colder) that same uniit flows 4.9 GPM to raise the water from 45 to 105..
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Old 01-14-2020, 09:19 AM   #569
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this is a tough one. because what you get out of a heat exchanger is greatly affected by what you bring in.. so the "hot side " is 170 and lets just say the pump is good enough for little drop you have to figure the 105 based on how many Gallons per minute you are flowing along with whats the inlet water temp on the domestic side of the exchanger.... everything is calculated in BTU of heat added to the domestic water based on its inlet temp and its flow...



for example, a 150,000 BTU high efficiency tankless water heater can rise the temperature of the water 45 degrees (60 in 105 out) at a rate of 6.5 Gallons per minute.. same unit (say your water is colder) that same uniit flows 4.9 GPM to raise the water from 45 to 105..
60° for an inlet temp is probably good. The bus will be heated and the tanks inside. Random search says 2.5 gpm for a low flow RV showerhead. For ease of math, I'd ignore the loss in the loops, pumps, etc. then once I have an answer, add 25~50% for the losses.
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Old 01-16-2020, 11:37 AM   #570
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..
Did you see these attachments?
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Old 01-16-2020, 12:30 PM   #571
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Yeah, no, or maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...NLIAIH3Y&psc=1


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Old 01-21-2020, 08:07 AM   #572
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The knockoff heater is scheduled for delivery tomorrow!!
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:20 AM   #573
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We installed a Chinese 5kw in my bus pus upgraded to 2" foam on floor and walls. Works fantastic. High quality as well. They are all made in one factory and smaller companies buy and package. I paid $113.00 and then it went down to $105.00 and on the top end over $200.00
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1998 Ford B700 Thomas body 65 passenger. 5.9 Cummins 12 valve with MT643 Transmission 123,000 miles.
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:07 AM   #574
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We installed a Chinese 5kw in my bus pus upgraded to 2" foam on floor and walls. Works fantastic. High quality as well. They are all made in one factory and smaller companies buy and package. I paid $113.00 and then it went down to $105.00 and on the top end over $200.00
Mine is a coolant heater, not air.
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:39 AM   #575
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http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f51/of...tml#post370260
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Old 02-18-2020, 11:41 AM   #576
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Finally got the diesel heater started. At first, I thought the water pump was having trouble priming. Days later, I thought it was the fuel pump having trouble priming. With both of those sorted out, it still didn't want to fire. Turned out to be the batteries. The bus batteries haven't been charged in probably a year now. With all of the rain lately, the GFI kept tripping when I left the charger on over night. Finally just ran the wires to the car. Glow plug finally had enough current and it fired up on the second try.


The first try was a little worrisome. I think it was dumping diesel fuel down the exhaust side. Sitting over the bucket that already had water in it, I'm not sure it was dumping diesel, a diesel water mix, or straight water. Pretty sure it was not straight water. The second time it didn't dump anything out the exhaust. The dumping was before switching to the fully charged car battery.


Now I need to get it permanently mounted and plumbed. But before I do that... Need to redraw the floor plans in the bus so I can decide where outlets need to be. Also thinking about having two panel boxes; one for 120VAC and another for 12VDC. The radiant heater needs 12VDC. The recirc pump for the engine needs 12VDC. Diesel cooking stove will need 12VDC and the overhead lights will likely be 12VDC as well. Might as well use some DC circuit breakers and have a separate box for that.


Need to get the wiring run then I can worry about wall coverings. I'm thinking 1/4" ply will be easiest and cheapest. Then paint it. The grooved kind (like shed siding) will give the walls a wainscoting look. Once that's done, I can start on putting in cabinetry.


If anyone has one of these used for say $1,000 I'll take it.
http://dickinsonmarine.com/product/m...ner-gas-stove/

The heater went from 38° at 6:34, 52° at 6:36, 73° at 6:37, and 82° at 6° 6:38. Temps are in Celsius of course.
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