'99 BB to become a tiny home...

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

You are tall!
Nice to put a face to "Brewerbob"!!!
We all need to make more YT vids. Seems like the YT vids from non-skoolie members are, IMO, kinda lame and kiddy.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

You are tall!
Nice to put a face to "Brewerbob"!!!

6'1" ~ 6'2" ish. That's why I was quizzing you on yours. If you went 10, I need 12 or 13.

Need to quiz you some more on the (vertical) overlapping of the sheet metal. You overlapping both horizontal rows of rivets in the rub rail? Both (h) rows up top? Rub rail rivets are 7" on center. Not many. The roof rivets are 2" on center but staggered rows so effectively 1". If I overlap both rows top and bottom, a full sheet will get me a max of 17" raise. If I do a floor raise that's getting kinda short on split space. I do think I want to keep the bus under 12'. I've been seeing a fair number of 12' clearance signs now that I'm looking for them.

We all need to make more YT vids. Seems like the YT vids from non-skoolie members are, IMO, kinda lame and kiddy.

I only follow a few and they aren't bad but then water seeks its own level. I get half way thru the ditzy ones and turn them off. If it's Jersey shore accents, I don't get that far.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

6'1" ~ 6'2" ish. That's why I was quizzing you on yours. If you went 10, I need 12 or 13.

Need to quiz you some more on the (vertical) overlapping of the sheet metal. You overlapping both horizontal rows of rivets in the rub rail? Both (h) rows up top? Rub rail rivets are 7" on center. Not many. The roof rivets are 2" on center but staggered rows so effectively 1". If I overlap both rows top and bottom, a full sheet will get me a max of 17" raise. If I do a floor raise that's getting kinda short on split space. I do think I want to keep the bus under 12'. I've been seeing a fair number of 12' clearance signs now that I'm looking for them.

I only follow a few and they aren't bad but then water seeks its own level. I get half way thru the ditzy ones and turn them off. If it's Jersey shore accents, I don't get that far.

IDK, but if I were you, I'd use the all-thread and raise it a couple inches at a time till it feels right.
I ALMOST stopped at 8" of raise, but thought going two extra for good measure was a good idea. 10" may be plenty, come walk around in mine when you're down in Sept.
JUST MY OPINION- but the "floor raise" sounds like a ton of work and frankly a dumb idea. But to each their own.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

IDK, but if I were you, I'd use the all-thread and raise it a couple inches at a time till it feels right.
I ALMOST stopped at 8" of raise, but thought going two extra for good measure was a good idea. 10" may be plenty, come walk around in mine when you're down in Sept.
JUST MY OPINION- but the "floor raise" sounds like a ton of work and frankly a dumb idea. But to each their own.

That doesn't answer my questions. We can debate whether 1" or 100" is right but that makes no difference for these questions. Same questions would still apply to skinning over the windows. How much metal is tucked under the existing metal? One row of rivets or two?

I don't know that a floor raise would be all that much work. A lot of people frame out the floor with furring strips. In talking with you, I don't remember if that is in or out. Going directly over foam board was mentioned somewhere. But assuming furring strips, mine would be 2x10 furring strips instead of shaved down something or others.

My concern with a floor raise is center of gravity shift. I dunno what it takes to upset a 20,000 pound bus. Probably takes more than a 10 inch floor raise. But then again once 20,000 lbs starts moving, it's too late to do anything but get out of the way (if you're lucky).

There's no chance in hell I'm coming down there without seeing your bus!!! The problem is timeline. It's not until the end of Sept. I'll be ready for dissection before then. I don't want to sit around and do nothing. It's probably what I 'll do anyway. I need to find some closer east coast raised buses.

[EastCoastCB]

Well, maybe you should call me. I'm not an actual fabricator, but I can talk you through how I'M skinning mine.
Basically-
I'll tuck the top of the skin under the drip rail thingy that's over where my windows were. Then rivet to the ribs and my flanges that are welded to my rib extension pieces. The sheet will end behind the rub rail, which has been removed. Once the rub rail is on, it will be as flush as I can get it and hopefully looks factory-ish.
The first sheet will go up in the rear, then the new one will overlap it on a line of rivets, then keep moving forward... then repeat on other side.

[Brewerbob]

This is what's called a failure to communicate.

The gutter thingies have two rows of rivets above them.
Exhibit A


I see three options;

1) the new sheet metal goes under the gutters but not the rivets. A new row of rivets is put in. I don't like that idea.
2) the new sheet metal goes under the lower row of rivets and new rivets are put in.
3) the new sheet metal goes under both rows of rivets and new rivets are put in.

I suppose there could be a 4... both rows are used and a new row above and below the OEMs are added. Way overkill.

Same goes for the rub rails, new metal under the upper row or upper and lower.



P.S. I ain't got your phone number. Hell, I'm not even sure where I'm going in Sept other than somewhere near Orlando. For all I know, you're an axe murderer living with your mother.

P.S.S. At least you seem to be a nice enough axe murderer.

[cadillackid]

I would go under 1 row of rivets and put new ones in, although you may have to remove both rows anyway to get the outer skin to separate from the rib far enough to insert the new metal?

I forgot bluebirds all have those annoying "awnings" which make it difficult to have a nice smooth side all the way up.


-Christopher

[Brewerbob]

Ah now we are getting somewhere. Assumed yours was near enough the same.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I would go under 1 row of rivets and put new ones in, although you may have to remove both rows anyway to get the outer skin to separate from the rib far enough to insert the new metal?

I forgot bluebirds all have those annoying "awnings" which make it difficult to have a nice smooth side all the way up.


-Christopher

Yeah, mine are just smooth, angled pieces that the roof is actually bent into. Super strong, way overbuilt. Like the rest of the bus!

[Brewerbob]

My 37,000 half inch rivets make tanks blush and they fear no drill bit ever made.

[BadWolf]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

This is what's called a failure to communicate.

The gutter thingies have two rows of rivets above them.
Exhibit A


I see three options;

1) the new sheet metal goes under the gutters but not the rivets. A new row of rivets is put in. I don't like that idea.
2) the new sheet metal goes under the lower row of rivets and new rivets are put in.
3) the new sheet metal goes under both rows of rivets and new rivets are put in.

I suppose there could be a 4... both rows are used and a new row above and below the OEMs are added. Way overkill.

Same goes for the rub rails, new metal under the upper row or upper and lower.



P.S. I ain't got your phone number. Hell, I'm not even sure where I'm going in Sept other than somewhere near Orlando. For all I know, you're an axe murderer living with your mother.

P.S.S. At least you seem to be a nice enough axe murderer.

I have been tossing the same question around in my head for some time now. I thought my answer was (for the top) your option 2, new sheet metal under lower row of rivets, replace rivets. And under the top row on the rub rail and replace rivets.

Then I found Scott's build on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsTQYC7JRRA

Looks like it will work out. Sure would save a lot of rivet removal and installation. I do not plan to raise the roof although I have not 100% decided against it yet.

[Trailer2]

You are probably going to drill both rows of rivets to get the panels to lift enough to get the sheet underneath. Mine is a bluebird and it was butyl sealant under the rows of rivets that made it difficult to shove the steel under the lip.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by BadWolf

Then I found Scott's build on youtube:

Looks like it will work out. Sure would save a lot of rivet removal and installation. I do not plan to raise the roof although I have not 100% decided against it yet.

Scott may be an amazing guy in person but I can't stand his videos. Personal bias I guess. Their voices get on my nerves. Being from NY, they have 3 strikes against them out of the gate. Aside from that, they don't make any damn sense to me.

"I have no way to level the bus"... um, scrap plywood and some Horrible Freight $20 bottle jacks. Only need one jack if you can get your hands on some scrap lumber for cribbing.

"We can't afford to have someone paint the bus"... you paid $1500 for pre-cut sheet metal. Get full sheets and a $10 Horrible Freight angle grinder and cut it yourself.

"it's so hot and my shorts are ugly"... you building a bus or modeling in a fashion show?



Now that that dead horse has been properly beaten, I'm not sure I like his method of attaching the sheet metal. There's no support at the top. All of his supports are vertical. Why did Blue Bird spend so much time, money, and effort putting a rivet every two inches along the gutters?

Originally Posted by Trailer2

You are probably going to drill both rows of rivets to get the panels to lift enough to get the sheet underneath. Mine is a bluebird and it was butyl sealant under the rows of rivets that made it difficult to shove the steel under the lip.

I do like the block of wood and hammering of the sheet metal to get it to move between the skins. I'm hoping that will be enough to get the rivet holes to overlap enough to drill holes in the new skins.

I'll level my bus prior to the raise for the raise itself but I'm not worried about the new panels being straight. The rain gutter and the rub rail will cover any slop. I won't have mine pre-cut for windows so it won't matter from that stand point either.

I've only got 20 rivets out so far. I haven't check to see if there's any sealant between the layers.

[Brewerbob]

I dunno if i like this or not. Would probably need to cut the back side by a 1/3rd or so and butt it against the wall just so it doesn't take up so much room.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

I do like the block of wood and hammering of the sheet metal to get it to move between the skins.

Air chisel takes 2 seconds to separate. You don't need much gap. Bzzzzt and done.

Get 'er done.

Cool sink- it has the same physique as I do.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Rusty

Air chisel takes 2 seconds to separate. You don't need much gap. Bzzzzt and done.

Get 'er done.

Good point. I don't want to use a crow bar and muck it all up. Use the duller of the two chisels just so I don't cut the top row. Just want it nice and uniform so it goes back together nicely.

Just need some money for the sheet metal. Damn insurance is due; $831. If I can't get it cheaper from somewhere else, I need to see about changing that all of it due Sept 30th. That just ain't happening.

Cool sink- it has the same physique as I do.

Fat and fluffy is a good shape. More fun getting there than changing it.

[Drop out]

Nice bus.

This is the first mention I've seen of Roll With It. Their videos are always good for a cringe or two.

Long ago I worked in fabrication, I've done plumbing, I do a little electrical, I do some woodworking and I can handle a fair amount of mechanic type stuff. I think that puts me in a good position to tackle a conversion and I know how to research the things I don't know.

I barely see any experience in those two except paint maybe.

I no longer do fabrication for money but I love making things and I volunteer with an art group that gets a lot of first time fabricators.

Some people learn like a sponge, some are almost helpless.

Scott seems very lucky to have some friends who are a little more mechanically inclined, otherwise I doubt the bus would get finished and I would expect quality issues.

I wish I could be in MD to give you a hand. I could make sure the sheet metal gets done right and I'd have a chance to get my hands on a bus to experience how things go because video doesn't tell you everything.

Any way, if you run in to issues, take pictures from lots of angles and maybe draw cross sections to describe what you want to do. I will be glad to look and give you an opinion if you need it (and even if you don't some times).

Keep doing good work and asking questions.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Drop out

Nice bus.

This is the first mention I've seen of Roll With It. Their videos are always good for a cringe or two.

Long ago I worked in fabrication, I've done plumbing, I do a little electrical, I do some woodworking and I can handle a fair amount of mechanic type stuff. I think that puts me in a good position to tackle a conversion and I know how to research the things I don't know.

I barely see any experience in those two except paint maybe.

I no longer do fabrication for money but I love making things and I volunteer with an art group that gets a lot of first time fabricators.

Some people learn like a sponge, some are almost helpless.

Scott seems very lucky to have some friends who are a little more mechanically inclined, otherwise I doubt the bus would get finished and I would expect quality issues.

I wish I could be in MD to give you a hand. I could make sure the sheet metal gets done right and I'd have a chance to get my hands on a bus to experience how things go because video doesn't tell you everything.

Any way, if you run in to issues, take pictures from lots of angles and maybe draw cross sections to describe what you want to do. I will be glad to look and give you an opinion if you need it (and even if you don't some times).

Keep doing good work and asking questions.

I totally agree- those people's videos are just CRINGE-FESTS!

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Drop out

Nice bus.

This is the first mention I've seen of Roll With It. Their videos are always good for a cringe or two.

Long ago I worked in fabrication, I've done plumbing, I do a little electrical, I do some woodworking and I can handle a fair amount of mechanic type stuff. I think that puts me in a good position to tackle a conversion and I know how to research the things I don't know.

I've not done any of it for a living but I've dabbled in all of it. My problem is knowing my limits. I don't have any. I can half-a$s almost anything. Now if I want it to look good when I'm done, that's another ball of wax. I lack patience. After an hour of sanding the bus, screw this!!!! Pssssstttttt on goes the paint. It hasn't washed off yet so good enough.

I wish I could be in MD to give you a hand.

Where are you located?

Any way, if you run in to issues, take pictures from lots of angles and maybe draw cross sections to describe what you want to do. I will be glad to look and give you an opinion if you need it (and even if you don't some times).

Currently my questions are in structural engineering. If I cut the bus here..., If I cut the bus there instead..., etc. There are a couple of kids at work (most are right out of college but these two are 30 something) have some fab experience on the side and they are real engineers. I need to get them out to the bus for a field trip. I'm in Quality and never got past Calc II or took more than HS Physics. What I'd really like is a metallurgist, structural eng, etc.

Keep doing good work and asking questions.

Going down to see ECCB's bus this weekend. See how that chucklehead cut his bus up. Hopefully his AmTram is similar enough to Blue Bird to get some ideas or validate the ones I have already.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

I've not done any of it for a living but I've dabbled in all of it. My problem is knowing my limits. I don't have any. I can half-a$s almost anything. Now if I want it to look good when I'm done, that's another ball of wax. I lack patience. After an hour of sanding the bus, screw this!!!! Pssssstttttt on goes the paint. It hasn't washed off yet so good enough.

Where are you located?

Currently my questions are in structural engineering. If I cut the bus here..., If I cut the bus there instead..., etc. There are a couple of kids at work (most are right out of college but these two are 30 something) have some fab experience on the side and they are real engineers. I need to get them out to the bus for a field trip. I'm in Quality and never got past Calc II or took more than HS Physics. What I'd really like is a metallurgist, structural eng, etc.

Going down to see ECCB's bus this weekend. See how that chucklehead cut his bus up. Hopefully his AmTram is similar enough to Blue Bird to get some ideas or validate the ones I have already.

Its really as easy as MuddaEarth showed it to be. I simply braced mine underneath with jacks and stands and it never settled, shifted, or moved any appreciable amount. Then we welded the uprights on. Its not done yet, but that may be even better for you to see how its put together.
I've not laid a hand on the bus for at least 6 months, but I'm getting ready to finish the body work phase this fall/winter.