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06-29-2020, 10:56 AM
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#41
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 690
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
I so muh agree that outlets on the outside are needed. I plan to have one that is raw generator/shore supplied and one house supplied. Since we are still using the bus as a moving van, I have lots of time to plan it out. I may put one of each in a socket box and one on each side of the bus. Then I can choose the power source as well as the side of the bus.
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I'll be adding the next one on the other side of the bus next weekend. My and plan is to run 3 power sources (shore, generator, house inverter) through an auto switch and then into the main power box. Less confusing and less wiring than having two separate circuits. I don't ever foresee a need to run power from 2 different sources at the same time. I may also add one outlet at the front of the bus right by the block heater so I have the easy option of plugging in the engine from the house electrical system.
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06-29-2020, 02:00 PM
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#42
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,853
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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I like the idea of running the outlet to the block heater line. Could even add a switch inline (at the driver console) and keep it permanently plugged in and be available at a moment's notice without having to go outside of the bus to plug it in.
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06-29-2020, 02:34 PM
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#43
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 690
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
I like the idea of running the outlet to the block heater line. Could even add a switch inline (at the driver console) and keep it permanently plugged in and be available at a moment's notice without having to go outside of the bus to plug it in.
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Now you're talkin like a good government employee. The fewer times I have to get out of my chair, the better! Makes a lot of sense to me now. Just hard wire that line to my circuit panel on a switch up out of the way, maybe inside the electrical cabinet where someone won't mistake it for the lights. I'm already planning on a switched solenoid to be able to fill the fresh water tank from the shore hook up so I don't have to stand outside holding a hose all the time. I like your way of thinking, anything to make retired life a little easier!
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06-29-2020, 02:39 PM
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#44
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,853
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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After all, that is what retired is all about
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07-14-2020, 10:38 AM
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#45
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 690
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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I have not had very much time for working on the project the last few weekends. Things are happening very fast in the changing world. Some of those changes necessitate change of direction in my own little world. Boots on the ground fighting with wingtips in the offices. Forced overtime to cover short staffing due to Covid possible people, makes for sevier burnout on those who do show up to work. Staff shortage, canceled vacations, barely acceptable short term policy changes that we know full well will not change back when this is all over. This rollercoaster ride is starting to get scary.
On a slightly better note, I got the RV door off and decided to use it on the bus, right before the wind hauled it away and broke the glass in it. Now I guess I have a reason to replace that piece with a dual pane window. Other than that, all I managed the last few weeks was some cleanup, which doesn't happen often enough. Certainly no pictures to prove that I didn't get anything done.
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07-14-2020, 12:13 PM
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#46
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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I feel ya Jack, starting to go sideways around here also.
So I was sent home in March at the start of all this because I questioned company covid policy and now I've been called back in to work because many senior guys are starting to see the light and are taking time off.
Sorry about you're wrecked door, I had been looking for a good used Rv door for a while but anything decent shape they want $300-$400 for.
I picked up a complete rv last night from a guy only about 8 miles from my place. It was in the yard and a tree dropped on it and caught the back end. When I asked him how much $$ he said bring some beers and help get the tree off it and it's yours. Couldn't get there with the chainsaw fast enough. Was going to drive it home but the back wall is cracked out so Tow truck is picking it up tonight.
Keep the faith and stay safe.
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07-14-2020, 12:46 PM
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#47
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 690
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Nice! There are so many useful parts from these old RV's. I'm not sure why it took me 4 months to realize I had an RV door I went through all those times salvaging so much other stuff. I was just staring at the RV one day trying to decide if there was anything else I could rob from it when it hit me. I should have waited for a less windy day.
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07-14-2020, 09:05 PM
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#48
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,259
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 8.3 Cummins ISC
Rated Cap: 75
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I find stuff from old campers to have limited use. Around here all the old campers leak and the stuff inside gets that musty smell. Besides, it's rare to find a parts camper that has a 55 amp electrical system.
Fridges are junk, I hate dealing with propane fridges and will not have one on my bus. Maybe the range tops and some of the furniture but that's it for me.
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07-14-2020, 09:32 PM
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#49
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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All systems are in perfect working order including the fridge, stove, water heater, furnace, underbody propane system, the Sthil chainsaw left in the storage box and the 15000 btu air conditioner and the Onan whisper quiet gen set. The Dometic awning is also in excellent shape. The tow truck was late so after sitting for God knows how long with a boost the V10 with 56,000 original miles fired right up and I drove it home without a problem. Found the wife waiting for me with a box of ice cold beer so all in all I'd say I had a decent day and think I'll make out ok with it.
But of course to each his own.
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07-14-2020, 09:46 PM
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#50
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,201
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Congrats! You really scored!!!!
Jack
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07-15-2020, 05:52 AM
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#51
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,848
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIbluebird
I find stuff from old campers to have limited use. Around here all the old campers leak and the stuff inside gets that musty smell. Besides, it's rare to find a parts camper that has a 55 amp electrical system.
Fridges are junk, I hate dealing with propane fridges and will not have one on my bus. Maybe the range tops and some of the furniture but that's it for me.
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How do propane stove/ovens salvaged from campers generally work out? I have one that I got off Craigslist and I kind of don't want to blow myself up with it.
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07-15-2020, 10:41 AM
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#52
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 690
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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I think as long as you leak test you'll be fine. I would set it up outside of the bus for a test run first.
I don't think I would expect to use furniture out of an old RV. I took all the tanks, windows, door A/C units, wiring, outside storage doors, and a few other things from mine. I never intended to use any of the appliances or soft stuff.
If I ever get to project Bus #2, I will definitely start with a defunct RV as donor for all the needed parts.
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07-15-2020, 10:59 AM
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#53
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,201
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Musigenesis, I had the same concerns as you and I did as JackE recommended. Both the stove/oven and gravity heater are still working fine 10 years later. The only down side I've found is having to light the pilot lights to get things going. Wifey bakes a mean apple pie in the little oven, Yum!
Jack
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07-15-2020, 11:13 AM
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#54
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,848
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackE
I think as long as you leak test you'll be fine. I would set it up outside of the bus for a test run first.
I don't think I would expect to use furniture out of an old RV. I took all the tanks, windows, door A/C units, wiring, outside storage doors, and a few other things from mine. I never intended to use any of the appliances or soft stuff.
If I ever get to project Bus #2, I will definitely start with a defunct RV as donor for all the needed parts.
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Thanks, I'm definitely going to test it outside first.
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07-15-2020, 11:14 AM
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#55
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,848
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
Musigenesis, I had the same concerns as you and I did as JackE recommended. Both the stove/oven and gravity heater are still working fine 10 years later. The only down side I've found is having to light the pilot lights to get things going. Wifey bakes a mean apple pie in the little oven, Yum!
Jack 
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Thanks, that's good to know. As the saying goes: "whatever doesn't kill ol trunt makes me stronger."
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07-15-2020, 12:11 PM
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#56
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,201
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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I've sort of gotten used to the little boom the oven makes when the main burner lights---------------
Jack
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07-21-2020, 09:59 AM
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#57
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,259
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 8.3 Cummins ISC
Rated Cap: 75
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I'm having a heck of a time finding this compartment at the front of the bus that contains the Vandalock relay....there is nothing on the firewall when you open the driver's side windshield wiper door but I do see several bolts holding a metal panel on.
Do I need to remove that cover to get at the relays? Thanks.
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07-21-2020, 11:26 AM
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#58
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,222
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIbluebird
Do I need to remove that cover to get at the relays? Thanks.
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Yes.
On mine, it was also sealed in place with silicone. I did not reseal it.
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07-21-2020, 11:30 AM
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#59
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,259
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 8.3 Cummins ISC
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome
Yes.
On mine, it was also sealed in place with silicone. I did not reseal it.
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Thanks, I found it now. None of them are labeled though
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07-21-2020, 11:48 AM
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#60
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,222
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIbluebird
Thanks, I found it now. None of them are labeled though 
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Yea, that kinda sucks. And it ain't easy to trace the wires back there. I had to do that already.
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