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Old 03-03-2020, 01:20 PM   #21
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: NE Oregon
Posts: 148
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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After finishing installing the floor, we painted it with oil-based enamel that we found in the Home Depot Oops paint pile. It was only $9 a gallon and they had 3 gallons all the same dark brown. It will eventually be covered with vinyl snap together flooring, but only in the areas not covered with furniture, appliances, cabinets, ect, so I wanted it as water resistance as possible. Since the air temp was about 45 degrees F and dropping below freezing at nights, I added Japan Drier to the paint. I did 2-3 heavy coats with several days of drying between coats. It cured great and I am happy with it.

You can also see that we left the factory heaters in place for heat while driving.

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Old 03-03-2020, 01:33 PM   #22
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: NE Oregon
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Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
The next step was building a couch that pulls out into a bed. I started by building a box platform and attaching it to the floor and chair rails.
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Next a built the frame and then laid 1/2 plywood on top of it.
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Old 03-03-2020, 01:36 PM   #23
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Here is the basic platform/top in place in couch position.
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Old 03-03-2020, 01:44 PM   #24
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: NE Oregon
Posts: 148
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Next step was adding the front and partial side supports so that it can be pulled out into bed position. The side supports also help hold it in place when in couch mode traveling down the road. These are attached to the sliding frame that sits on the box platform. We purchased a full size foam mattress, but it into two pieces, and covered it in fabric for the cushions. When pulled out it makes into the full size bed, when in couch position it provides 75" of seating length. It is mostly finished, just needs some holes to use for handles and maybe some fancy trim later down the road.
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Old 03-03-2020, 02:10 PM   #25
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Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Looking good.
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Old 03-04-2020, 02:26 AM   #26
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
.... and you said you would not be posting many pictures! Thank you for sharing your build with us.
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Old 03-04-2020, 11:05 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
.... and you said you would not be posting many pictures! Thank you for sharing your build with us.
True. I've been better about taking pics and didn't feel great so it seemed like a good time to sit on the couch and post some updates.
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Old 03-05-2020, 12:42 AM   #28
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I for one am glad you did.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:28 PM   #29
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
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Year: 1998
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An update, unfortunately without pics:
We had planned for months to take our bus on its first family trip, from NE Oregon, down through Carson City, to Moapa Valley, St George and back. 10 days vacation. I was working on the bus almost every spare minute prepping for our trip, some of the work is temporary just to get a hot shower and kitchen sink set up prior to the trip.
Then about 2 weeks before leaving, we made the tough choice to cancel due to virus precautions/restrictions. It was a major let down for many reasons and demotivated me from bus work for a few weeks.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:33 PM   #30
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: NE Oregon
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Engine: 8.3 Cummins
I still took my vacation days, but we mostly stayed around the area, sold some stuff online, and caught up on things that had been neglected due to spending tons of time on the bus.

We did take a one night trip in the bus, about 2 hours away and camped in a beautiful area outside of Union, Oregon. It was the coldest night of the week, getting down to about 20 degrees and snowing on us. It was still super exciting to drive and camp in the bus, and the eBay diesel heater kept us comfortable, but ran nearly non stop that night.
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:00 PM   #31
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It does feel nice to finally use it for what you planned for it.
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:46 PM   #32
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Year: 1998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
It does feel nice to finally use it for what you planned for it.
Yes, it was very fun. Last week we made it out for another overnighter. The kids love to travel and sleep in the bus even if their bunk beds are not yet started.

After taking a few weeks off of bus construction, I think I am motivated again. I ordered the sheet metal to replace most of the windows and will start on that after I get it primed. Soon after that, I hope to prep and paint the outside of the whole bus.
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Old 05-05-2020, 10:42 PM   #33
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I've been working on prepping the exterior for painting. It was lots of yellow reflective tape along the sides, back, and around every emergency exit. I don't know if that is state law for a school bus, or just added by the district for increased safety. It has been coming off of the flat sections okay with a heat gun and razor blade, but leaves some nasty gum behind. I don't look forward to removing from the bumpy and curved sections.
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Old 05-05-2020, 11:28 PM   #34
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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Year: 2002
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Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
Act Hardware sells a product called "Contractor's Solvent" which works well to remove the gum residue.
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Old 05-06-2020, 12:08 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
Act Hardware sells a product called "Contractor's Solvent" which works well to remove the gum residue.
Thanks. I have used Goof Off for other projects with good success, but if the stuff at Ace works well and costs less I will give it a try.

What do people generally do for all of the small holes, like where a reflector was riveted on? There are probably 10-20 rivet size holes around the lower half of bus where things used to be.
Should I:
A: Bondo
B: Screw a small button head screw into it before painting
C: leave the holes empty
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Old 05-06-2020, 01:10 AM   #36
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
Any of the above. It depends on your level of aesthetic concern. I think the simplest (to fill the holes) is the screw.


You may want to reconsider removing the reflectors. There are motor vehicle codes concerning large vehicles.


Here is a link to the regulations for the US.
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Old 05-06-2020, 06:27 AM   #37
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For getting the tape glue off, I had an easy time with Zep purple degreaser: https://www.zep.com/product/zepcomme...vent-degreaser. It turns the glue into something with the consistency of rubber cement and it comes right off.
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Old 05-06-2020, 08:50 AM   #38
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For any sticker, vinyl, decal and tape I wouldn't use anything other than the decal remover wheel... It is a game changer when dealing with that stuff. Removes it without damaging any of the paint underneath. Good luck!

Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K..._u.RSEbTEBFAXY
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Old 05-08-2020, 08:58 PM   #39
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: NE Oregon
Posts: 148
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Garaujo, thanks for the link. I've never seen that device before. Unfortunately, I'm done with all of the flat spots and I don't think that the wheel will get into the rub rail valleys.
Having started removing the left over adhesive last night, I am convinced that it is much more difficult than the stick tape itself. I tried Good Off and acetone, both seem similar, kind of melting it and turning into rubber cement, like Musigenesis said about the Zep stuff.
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Old 05-08-2020, 09:02 PM   #40
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: NE Oregon
Posts: 148
Year: 1998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post

You may want to reconsider removing the reflectors. There are motor vehicle codes concerning large vehicles.


Here is a link to the regulations for the US.
Thanks. I hadn't considered that they were required, but makes sense. I will screw them back on after painting, which will also solve my question about how to fill some of holes.
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