And the Twinkie Saga begins.....

[JackE]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

indeed the 466E is maxxed at 2600 RPM in the computer.. I can reprogram them to do 2800-2900 however according to Navistar running over 2600 SIGNIFICANTLY shortens the life of the engine.. at least thats how the book says it..

DOnt overheat it.. be mindful of that since it is close to summer.. even 230-240 degrees on the temp gauge can ruin it...

-Christopher

Does the 8.3 have the same speed and temp warning range?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by JackE

Does the 8.3 have the same speed and temp warning range?

Pretty sure the 8.3 only goes to 2400 rpm.

[Smittybilt]

Originally Posted by ermracing

Glad you have the bus home now. The gearing seems topped out at 65 if you're pulling 2600rpm. From our local International dealer, the dt466 will run there all day, no worries. Does it still have the rear heater? We use the on/off heater valve in the cab to help cool the engine if it starts to get hot. Like the Alcoas!

It does still have the rear heater, and my plan is to figure out a way to leave it in the system. I'd like to figure out a new place to locate it, just have not worked it out yet. I was paying so much attention to everything that was going on during that first trip, I didn't even give that thing a thought. Probably would have saved me on that second mishap.
Thanks for the reminder on that thing.
Smitty

[Smittybilt]

Cadillackid,
Hey thanks for the info. I'm going to crawl around underneath it today after work and figure it out. I'm really hoping it's not a 545, but what the hell, it does 65 at 2600 so I guess it'll do. On the way home it ran just a bit over 210 for most of the trip. A couple of hills it did creep up, but stayed about a needles with under the red zone. I'll throw a pic up for reference.
Thanks again, Smitty

[Smittybilt]

With some new tools and a couple things to drop off. While I was there I slid under the bus and took a look around for the transmission tag. Unfortunately I found the damn thing.....AT_545 Well that sucks, I apparently did not do enough research before I did the deed. I had read in a couple places that if you had the 545 you were topped out at 50 to 55 mph. That is probably true for a lot of them, but who says that the rear gear ratio wasn't changed at some point, or for that matter it could have been built right like it is. Either way, it is what it is. I can look around for another transmission if after the first couple trips I feel like I'd be better off. I'd REALLY like an Eaton 6 speed, but I'm betting that conversation would be to pricey for this guy.
L8R, Smitty

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Smittybilt

With some new tools and a couple things to drop off. While I was there I slid under the bus and took a look around for the transmission tag. Unfortunately I found the damn thing.....AT_545 Well that sucks, I apparently did not do enough research before I did the deed. I had read in a couple places that if you had the 545 you were topped out at 50 to 55 mph. That is probably true for a lot of them, but who says that the rear gear ratio wasn't changed at some point, or for that matter it could have been built right like it is. Either way, it is what it is. I can look around for another transmission if after the first couple trips I feel like I'd be better off. I'd REALLY like an Eaton 6 speed, but I'm betting that conversation would be to pricey for this guy.
L8R, Smitty

545's don't really determine the speed of the vehicle. Mine will do 80 and its got a 545.

[Native]

Awwwww ... the 545 means you will want to watch how you use it ... do not overheat the transmission. Change the oil frequently. Consider adding a transmission oil cooler. Since the transmission will not provide much braking action, make sure your service brakes are working properly.

[bluer04d]

Smitty,

Thanks for sharing your journey. Your write-ups help others as well as record your progress. Are you gonna rent out apartments in that vehicle ?

Bob in Somerset, NJ - looking for a Bluebird Mini

[Smittybilt]

Thanks for checking it out! This place is full of stories, experiences, facts, and plans for busses in every way shape and form you could possibly come up with. Maybe even a couple you couldn't. That's what I really like, it's the good, the bad, and the ugly, all put together so everybody see's it all.
Smitty

[Smittybilt]

After I got some things moved storage wise I got the rear heater freed up and moved out of the way. I have not un-plumbed it yet because I have not come up with a plan onits new purpose in life. Once I had the hoses and fan wiring out of the way, I stripped all the screws off of the rubber trim running around the driver's side rear wheel well. This is where my rust work will begin. I got the rubber flooring pulled up and was able to see the topside of the rust issue. Definitely going to be replacing all of the floor pan inserts in the wheel well area on both sides. All of the pics are drivers side only. I got underneath and eyeballed the situation there as well, it's looking like I'll be building some body supports this summer as well. Check out the pics, if anyone has any advice on replacement parts, I'm all ears.
Smitty

[ol trunt]

Looks like a great candidate for total wheel well removal if there is enough clearance for wheel travel.
Jack

[Native]

Welcome to the world of wheelhouse reconstruction and rust remediation!

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Native

Welcome to the world of wheelhouse reconstruction and rust remediation!

One of us ...
One of us ...

[musigenesis]

Did your bus not have any plywood on the floor? Just the matting glued to the sheet metal? If so, that kills one of my pet theories.

Really doesn't look that bad as far as this kind of rust is concerned. Might just be a cut and weld job with a few patches. You're not going to find any off-the-shelf replacement parts for this kind of damage, you just need some sheet metal and a welder. If no welder you could rivet the patches.

[Native]

Yeah, we did see someone use plastic tub material and glue ... BusT?


Edit: I am in no way suggesting this as THE way to do it, only A way. I am in favor of welding in new sheet metal and cross supports.

[Smittybilt]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Did your bus not have any plywood on the floor? Just the matting glued to the sheet metal? If so, that kills one of my pet theories.

Really doesn't look that bad as far as this kind of rust is concerned. Might just be a cut and weld job with a few patches. You're not going to find any off-the-shelf replacement parts for this kind of damage, you just need some sheet metal and a welder. If no welder you could rivet the patches.

Nope, there was just rubber liner straight to galvanized. Wasn't sure if pans were available, then again they look awfully simple. You can see in the pics they are roughly 10" sections running across the floor. Not sure yet if they run all the way across or half way. We'll see next time I get back there. I'm not too concerned about the pans themselves, the actual body supports underneath this area are going to need some serious attention as well..... pics when I get there.
Thanks, Smitty

[Smittybilt]

I'm going to be cutting and replacing a bit if the chair rail as well. The front side of the driver's side wheel well has rust running up the wall, and I'm expecting the same on the passenger side. Hopefully I can get back there after work this week and get the floor stripped out on the other side.
Smitty

[Native]

For what it is worth, the driver side was worse on our bus. You will know the story on yours soon enough.

[Smittybilt]

[QUOTE=Native;387280]For what it is worth, the driver side was worse on our bus. You will know the story on yours soon enough.[/QUOTE


Typical New England rust side......right side and rust side. I'm hoping that's the case anyway. Although I can see some good size buckles in the rubber floor on the right side. I'll dig into it and see this weekend.